tri mode amps

i noticed some forums cater to certain particular areas of audio, from audiophile to 10k spl, i asked this somewhere else an it got passed along with no replies so anyways is there someone here that can point me in the right direction for the filters i need to run this amp in tri-mode, vr-602- 2 channel 600 rms bridged @ 4 ohms 2-6-5" door speakers 1- 8" midbass sub i have this set up in mind so any feedback would be greatly appreciated1000 watts of lp, now need sum hp an mids

I'd try crossing at about 110Hz.  Assuming your speakers are all 4-ohms, wire a non-polarized cap of about 360uF in series with each of the mains, and an inductor of 5.8 mH in series with the woofer.  You likely won't find a single cap that large; wiring multiples in parallel adds their value together (3 X 100uF = 300uF)Support the12volt.com

thanx for your reply there, dyohn. ive seen posts on this forum referring to this type of wiring, but thought id never really need any of that info so your saying because of the 600 watts, is the reason i need a large cap? this is my first time getting this deep into adding caps an inductors into a amp output. parts express would probly have these parts? radio shack? the local shop here is very helpful almost too helpful at times kinda like a shadow, but he means well an yes all 3 speakers are 4 ohm, that would be a 4 ohm final load correct, ive been known for pushin the min ohm rating on a amp, (wrong math)1000 watts of lp, now need sum hp an mids

The power has nothing to do with the size of the cap, it's the frequency cut off that does it - and those caps are going to be expensive.  You'd probably save money buying a separate amp for the sub.Support the12volt.com

ok i didnt know about the parts being pricey! but the manufactures advertise these amps an others too here lately as being tri-mode capable i thought it would be a easy wiring setup but figured there was more to it than wiring up the speakers, because you cant crossover after the amp right? so in the end the tri-mode capable feature is just a sales gimmick? or am i wrong on that 1 too lol, but thanx again dyohn i do value your knowledge an the many other members on here, not tryin to be a suckup, just that im always learning1000 watts of lp, now need sum hp an mids

oh yeah one more thing is i already have 2 amps in my car, thats why i was wanting to add a midbass sub up front with my door speakers, i have a alpine 4 channel that would be more of a match to what im trying to accomplish, but its not 600 watts tho alpine mrv-f250, i think its 50x4 @ 2 0hms1000 watts of lp, now need sum hp an mids