1985 vw quantum, bad relay or fuel pump?

Duff coil? Duff HT leads? Duff EManagement? Dirt or gunge in fuel lines, any thing but the bloody fuel pump?

In fact on a vehicle of that age my first guess would be coil breaking down.

oldspark wrote: No, the pump should not run with the engine stalled with the proper relay - it is only closed when THE SPARK IS PRESENT (and during power up). Bypass the relay with a wire link.

OK. I just checked again on the fuel pump. When the engine stalls, the pump runs for just 2-3 seconds at most and then stops.

Then I decided to try all the fuel pump relays that I have, including the old "bad" ones and the new ones, They all "worked" just the same, regardless of whether the fifth spade is maked 31b or 1. But the engine stalls after 3-4 seconds. This is all with the replacement ignition module in place.

howie ll wrote: Duff coil? Duff HT leads? Duff EManagement? Dirt or gunge in fuel lines, any thing but the bloody fuel pump?

Thanks for your suggestions. On the coil, I tested it per the service manual for resistance within spec. The HT (line to distributor) to the no 1 post, (negative side) was within spec. However, the resistance between positive and negative sides was .93 ohms, .17 ohms higher than called for. .52-.76. However that is the resistance I have been reading there from several checks in the past, and it is the same resistance as on two back-up (tho used) coils that I have.

I don't have a test for the HT lead itself. It is about 3 years old, or only 5k miles.

The Engine management apparently was at fault, but . . . I replaced the ignition module and it now starts but dies. I also switched out the oxygen sensor control unit but that did not make a difference.

On gunk in the fuel line, I have not checked on that yet, as I was waiting for my neighbor to have some time to help.

I still wonder about, and am looking for a replacement, idle stabilization control unit which is tied into the oxygen control unit.

howie ll wrote: There's NO electrical parts in an ignition switch. 2 switch contacts, ACC and ignition 1 and 2 and a sprung contact for the starter.

Yeah, but VW has an intermediate part that the current goes through right before the switch. They call it the electrical part of the switch. I have not had it out to check it, but they are widely available for replacement, which suggests some sort of wear or failure could/does occur there.

Never seen anything like that on a VW, was the Quantum what we called the Passat by the way? The only thing electrical is the wiring connector and yes they often burned out on VWs of that age.

howie ll wrote: Never seen anything like that on a VW, was the Quantum what we called the Passat by the way? The only thing electrical is the wiring connector and yes they often burned out on VWs of that age.

Yes, the Passat was the original name, I believe.

The wiring connector is probably what we are telking about. The wires themselves come in to a curved black connector, which attaches to a white capsule connected to the switch. That capsule is what they/we call the electrical part of the switch.

As I say I did not pull that apart yet. I was warned to watch out for the plastic ring/collar that sits on top of the metal switch assembly when I try to pull it off the steering column. So I hesitated, thinking that the whole switch was ok since the engine started. Is it possible that that fail-prone part could cause the engine to cut off after 3-4 seconds? I don't know what symptoms of failure of that piece are.

vayankee wrote: I don't have a test for the HT lead itself. It is about 3 years old, or only 5k miles.

That is SO WRONG! Please correct your ignorance. (Not meant as an insult, but merely a lack of knowledge and reality. But also 3 years & 5k is not new - it can break on installation if not before.) PS (orig post time + 10 hours) - I can accept "I shouldn't have to test...", but the applicable statement is "You shall test..."

vayankee wrote: That capsule is what they/we call the electrical part of the switch.

Ah - so the switch is merely a mechanical device without any electrical connectors. REPLACE THE RELAY WITH A JUMPER. Else a standard relay. I want to ensure the pump is running all the time when IGN is on. There is no point continuing until that is established.

oldspark wrote: vayankee wrote: I don't have a test for the HT lead itself. It is about 3 years old, or only 5k miles. That is SO WRONG! Please correct your ignorance. (Not meant as an insult, but merely a lack of knowledge and reality. But also 3 years & 5k is not new - it can break on installation if not before.) PS (orig post time + 10 hours) - I can accept "I shouldn't have to test...", but the applicable statement is "You shall test..." > While sticks and stones can break my bones, etc. I would appreciate your leaving out personal attacks. I know I am ignorant about this stuff-otherwise I would not have written in! Please!  And yes, I realize that ignition wires fail, but I have enough experience to know when they are failing. I simply pointed out that my wires are performing fine. And all I really wanted was to find out out to test them. You didn't answer that question. So I double-checked the service manual, ran the resistance test, and they are fine. vayankee wrote: That capsule is what they/we call the electrical part of the switch. Ah - so the switch is merely a mechanical device without any electrical connectors. >I don't know what your point is here. Are you being sarcastic? Of course it has electrical connectors.-that's what I wrote above. REPLACE THE RELAY WITH A JUMPER. Else a standard relay. I want to ensure the pump is running all the time when IGN is on. There is no point continuing until that is established.

Yes, the fuel pump runs full time, with the key in the on position, and after the engine stalls, when there is a non-fuel pump relay (87,86, 85,30) in the fuel pump relay position. And the fuel pump does not stop until I turn off the key.

Again it is NOT a personal attack. I thought that was quite clear from my follow up. I didn't know what other term to use other than ignorance without verbiage that meant the same thing. (Remember, I write technical, not social trend english). But if you do not NOW understand or see that, please let me know so I have drop this thread before I insult any further. Sticks & stones - how insulting! A resistance test in inadequate for HT lead testing. It is to be tested in situ with HT coil and a splug. AFAIAConcerned, HT lead and spark reliability was not established. No sarcasm on the switch. In my parlance, the switch is electrical. Anything else is the actuator. I was reflecting that your "switch" is my "actuator". Now I know how to reinterpret your writing, and define my "switch". So yes, you have a "jumper" relay and the engine still stalls. Cool, now we can move on. Ignition testing after the coil is now irrelevant. Next stage IMO is sensors.     But, are you able to take my technical language without posting offense?