2010 grand cherokee, won't start remotely

I have a python responder one 4203p and an idatalink ads-alsl-ch4 that i'm trying to put into my 2010 grand cherokee. I have everything hooked up w2w. The vehicle does start with the (FOBIK) key. When I hit the remote start button the remote gives me a green success light and I hear relays clicking in the remote start but absolutely nothing happens to the truck. The bypass module LED blinks in segments of 3. I have checked all of my (soldered) connections at least 3 times, and i'm mostly sure that everything is wired up correctly. The one question I have is in regards to the bypass instructions. It says to connect the pink "ignition (+) input vehicle side" and white wires from the bypass to the remote start "ignition input wire", all on the banded side of the diode. Is the "1ST IGNITION (+) INPUT" supposed to be connected to the heavy gauge pink wire on the remote start? That's the way I have it wired up, and the only thing I can figure is that's not what it wanted me to do. I realize that's all super confusing spelled out in a sentence, but if you look at page 5 of the bypass install guide (attached below) you'll see what i'm talking about. I tapped +12v and ground from the other wires in the ignition harness, and the according to the programming instructions I successfully programmed the bypass to the truck in W2W mode. So at this point i'm open for suggestions- did I hook it up wrong or is something malfunctioning? I had this very same remote starter installed in my last car, which didn't require any type of security bypass. I'm pretty close to trashing all of this and buying a new r.s. and bypass. Oh I almost forgot. In the very beginning I ordered a CONNEC harness from idatalink that made it mostly all plug and play. Hooked it up first in D2D mode, got absolutely nothing. Took it all out and re-did it as W2W, still nothing. So i've completely abandoned the harness and it's just now installed in the truck as normal. Any input is appreciated! I didn't do it. *nodnod*

You need to go to the fuse box for the main 12v input. I don't believe that the 12v at the ignition is strong enough for the remote starter. And the ground needs to go to a chassis ground. You are likely to fry your ignition or ECU by tapping power and ground for the starter at the ignition harness.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Yes the thick R/S ignition is used thru the fuse & diode.  Also the thick R/S Starter wire goes to the ADS AL CA BLACK/ White wire.  The Mux relay is only necessary if the module is less than H/W version 1.23. 

Are you certain the bypass module is flashed with the CH4 firmware?  Do the locks work OK?  If you wanted to go D2D, then flash the bypass with DBI CH4 firmware.  W2W is the best way to go.

Try a Factory Reset on the ADS AL CA.  Then set the mode to Standard ( two blinks ) and lock it in.  Then program to the Jeep. 

Are you running in Tach Mode?  Did you do a Tach Learn?  You can run in fixed crank mode with a crank time of 2+ seconds.

Soldering is fun!

I'm pretty sure it's flashed to CH4 already, and it's H/W version 1.24 so no relay is required. It's all set up wire 2 wire and I've already done the factory reset a few times and set it to hardware (2 blinks) mode, and at this point the tach mode doesn't matter because it won't turn the ignition on at all. IDK if the locks work or not, it's a one button remote and it'll only unlock the doors after it's been started. I guess my next step will be to try what offroadz said and connect the ground and +12v to places other than the ignition wires. Thanks for the repliesI didn't do it. *nodnod*

Ok, I pretty much started over from scratch with all new equipment (viper 5301, same model idatalink bypass) and i'm having the same problem, but not necessarily for the same reason. last time i'm pretty sure it was the bypass that wasn't functioning correctly. This time I think I have the heavy gauge harness done wrong, maybe. The key starts the vehicle as normal. The remote start beeps and gives me a green light as if it's working and then never does anything. I've got everything hooked up w2w. It programmed without any problems, and the lock/unlock works fine. Also, i'm pulling +12v constant straight from the battery. Could somebody take a look at the pics below and see if it looks correct? According to my multimeter it doesn't look like the pink ignition wire is ever being turned on. Red is constant +12v, the small white wire jumps over to the start/accessory +12v input, and the other white wire is for the starter. Am I missing a wire? The bypass install instructions don't mention an accessory wire anywhere, that seems to be something the bypass takes care of. I'm at my wit's end with this. I've done other remote starts in the past and it was never this difficult. I've gone over and over everything and I can't see where anything is out of place. I know for a fact that I've got the bypass ignition wires and diode all hooked up correctly, so this is the only thing left. I have another viper 5301 that's going into a friend's vehicle; I plugged up it's brain instead of mine, and it shows all the same symptoms. Please help!! I didn't do it. *nodnod*

Did you meter the BLACK/ white start wire on the al-ca when you hit remote start? Advanced

Yes, pretty sure it was working correctly.I didn't do it. *nodnod*

Modified H3 Harness looks OK.  Just verify with a DMM that you have +12v right at H3/5 & H3/8 pins ( inside of plug ).

Possible problem areas :  ( Please excuse any "dumb" thoughts. )

Viper Neutral Safety Switch input wire not to chassis ground.     Eight blinks.

Viper Neutral Safety Switch harness not plugged in or set to ON.   Eight blinks.

Viper still in MTS Mode ( Menu3, Item1, Opt2 ).   Seven Blinks.

Hood Pin wire shows ground.  Six blinks.

Unless you have a BitWriter and can set Engine Checking off and a fixed crank time of >2 seconds,

program the Viper to Tach Mode ( Menu3, Item2, Opt4 ) and do a Tach Learn.

Soldering is fun!

Use the ADS-HRN-CH4 t-harness and you won't have to worry about your wiring, it is a complete plug n play system. Make sure you module is flashed for DBI protocol and go D2D with you viper unit. Done and done. You will see this harness on the bottom of page 3 in the guide for the alca Sean McAuliffe

Sales Rep.

Installation Distributors

The harness is the first thing I tried, it had the same problems I'm having now. I've tried this with two totally separate setups and neither of them has been able to turn on the ignition. Everything has been checked an rechecked by myself and a couple of friends and it absolutely doesn't make sense as to why this thing isn't working. Everything seems to be hooked up as it's supposed to be. That's why I was asking about the heavy gauge wiring harness.. I kindof re-did it to match my truck and I wanted to be sure I had those wires in the correct spots. Kreg- it doesn't give me any shutdown blinks, it just senses that it hasn't been able to start the vehicle and turns itself back off. The 2 way remote gives me a green light.I didn't do it. *nodnod*