python 580 starter in 2008 sonata

I drilled a small hole and placed a rubber grommet and then ran the 2 cables. You don't have to (but can if you wish) disconnect the battery to make any of the connections on any of the wires. For the ignition wires, as long as you take your time and do one by one, you shouldn't have to worry about any of them touching and causing an issue (especially with the 12v constant wire). Also don't test, probe or unplug any yellow plugs (or wires coming from them) as they are usually part of the airbags. I find it easier to test and connect everything with the power going thru all the wires. That way as soon I connect them, I can immediately test to ensure it's all working. I didn't have to unplug any connectors besides the ignition harness to test or solder any connections. As for the neutral safety switch, any place that's convenient for you is fine. I generally drill a small hole close to the driver's kick panel that won't get kicked around. Otherwise, I just zip tie it to a harness under the dash on the left that's low enough for the customer or mechanics to reach.

Man, you've been very generous with your time. I really appreciate it. I'm about ready to begin at this point. I did end up taking the seat out. That would have driven me crazy. I guess I've got a question or two about testing. I remember reading somewhere a dire warning about not probing wires because of the risk of damaging the vehicle's computer. However, that's the only way to test without unplugging connectors (which you said you didn't have to do). Are you just supposed to test for power on the wires of the remote after making your connections, or are you talking about actually testing the operation of the thing using the remote starter's buttons? Sorry to be such a dope. I guess I don't have anything in any of the materials I've received or downloaded that describes the testing procedure.

I probably should have specified that I meant I had read that probing using a test light was risky.

...and PLEASE tell me there's a fuse I can pull that will disable that d*** warning bell!

In the downloads section of this site is the Viper 5701 Install manual which has a section on testing for the wires you need. Starting on page 13.  Use a Digital Multi Meter,(DMM).  Take it one wire at a time, Solder and tape.

The 5701 is an alarm/remote starter, but the procedure is the same.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=5701

When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Thanks, smokeman.

I would say to use a digital multimeter as it's safer especially for first time installations. I test all the wires at least 2-3 times. The 1st time is before connecting anything to them. I then connect whichever alarm or remote start wire corresponds to that car wire. I will then test it at the plug of the remote start harness to ensure the remote start/alarm brain is receiving the right signal. After all harnesses are connected and soldered and everything is taped up and seems ready, I test all the pins on the harnesses before I connect the remote starter. The final test is with everything plugged in to the remote start/alarm. I test all the functions on the Viper remote and all the safety shutdowns and triggers (hood pin, doors, brake shutdown, neutral safety toggle switch, etc). Once they test well, it's time to make it pretty and zip tie and close it all up.

OK, I've got the ignition harness connections all made. I've also run the flat wire to the "control center" up under the rear view mirror. Now I'm ready to move on to the 12 pin main harness but, not surprisingly, I'm confused again. 1) The #2 pin says (+)12VDC Constant Input. Do I need to take power for this from the ignition harness again or from somewhere else? 2) What's the difference between "horn honk output" and "factory horn input"? I have only one "horn" wire identified on the car. Should this be a loop, (e.g., cut the wire on the car and connect the two leads from the remote)? 3) DOOR The car has both "lock" and "unlock" wires, both (-). However, the remote gives me "(+) Door Trigger Input" and "(-) Door Trigger Input (N/C or N/O)." ??? 4) What is "(-) 500mA Ground When Armed Output"? I see that the 18 pin harness gives me Factory Alarm Arm and Factory Alarm Disarm connections, but what is the function of this one (and do I need to connect it somewhere)? That's enough for now. Sick of me yet?

1) Yes, the 12v constant needs power. You can tie it right in to your main 12v inputs on the heavy gauge harness. 2) I have just connected these together and to the horn. As far as I know it is an input to alert the 2 way remote when the alarm is going off. If I am wrong on this I'm sure someone can chime in. 3) The door trigger input wires have nothing to do with your door locks. These are your triggers for when the doors are open/closed. They will most likely be (-) on that car. 4) The GWA output is for adding external components. This wire gives off a (-) 200ma ground signal whenever the alarm is armed. As for the factory arm/disarm, the factory alarm is most likely controlled only through the factory remote on that car so they will probably not get connected. Check a wire diagram just to be sure about the arm/disarm wires.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for your reply, offroad! A couple of clarifications...

offroadzj wrote: 3) The door trigger input wires have nothing to do with your door locks. These are your triggers for when the doors are open/closed. They will most likely be (-) on that car.

I realize now that I missed the little 3-pin door lock connector when I posted this. Duh. As for the door "triggers," what are they triggering?

offroadzj wrote: 4) As for the factory arm/disarm, the factory alarm is most likely controlled only through the factory remote on that car so they will probably not get connected. Check a wire diagram just to be sure about the arm/disarm wires.

There is no mention of how to arm or disarm the alarm in the Python owner's guide. You know WAY more about this than I do, but if it can't be done why does the remote harness provide "factory" alarm arm and disarm connections? I've got the alarm schematic up right now. What am I looking for? Thanks.