honda fit 2011 bulldog remote starter

Thanks for the quick responses everyone. You guys rock. I will be able to work on the car later this week to see what progress I can make. I will answer what I can for now. MT considerations: 1. Explanation of neutral safety switch - The magnetic reed switch (normally open) and rare earth magnet are part of the neutral safety switch wiring/circuit H5/1 before its connected to ground in my setup. The circuit is closed (grounded, allowing remote start) when the stick is in the neutral position only (rare earth magnet closes the circuit when it's over the magnetic reed switch, causing the wire to be grounded). * this has no involvement in the clutch* 2. The E brake I haven't wired into the circuit yet, (as I have just been testing to make sure the remote starter will work.) I'm going to wire the neutral safety switch wire H5/1 to the E brake after the magnetic reed switch to only allow remote starts when in neutral with the E brake on. I will do the either one of 2 ways after I know the remote starter will work, as I'm stuck if it doesn't work. 1st method: add a magnetic reed switch (normally closed) to the E brake that will open the circuit when the E brake is off (lowered) and close the circuit/ground H5/1 when engaged. (This magnetic contact or reed switch is set up opposite of the one on the shifter based on how I can mount it.) 2nd method: connect H5/1 (after the magnetic reed switch to ground only in neutral) to the factory orange Parking/E brake ground wire with a diode. 3. I have not attempted to manipulate the clutch yet, as I wanted to confirm the remote starter would work. When I attempt to remote start the car I try it again with the clutch pressed in and get the same response. I realize that the clutch will have to be addressed, but this will be easier to test and manipulate once the remote starter will work (even with clutch manually pressed). 4. I am also considering adding 2 additnal magnetic reed switches (normally open) to the hood pin switch wire H5/1 after splitting the wire 3 ways (with diodes). 1 wire to hood pin, 1 wire to magnetic reed switch mounted under the shifter to come in contact with the magnet in gears 1, 3, & 5, and 1 wire to a magnetic reed switch which comes in contact with the magnet when in gears 2, 4, and R. This would kill the starter (when remote started & key not in ignition) whenever this wire is grounded either by the hood pin switch, or the car being in any gear. Kreg - great post. I'll double check everything you discussed on my install when I get time. Hood status output - I'll mount the hood pin, and test things with it connected to R/S H5/1, as I don't know if there's a factory installed sensor. Trunk release - thanks for confirming my assumption here. Starter - I will wire R/S H1/1 to the car's pink starter at the brown ignition switch harness as well as the bypass modules 10pinW 8 starter input. Grounds - I'll ground R/S H2/3 and IBM 4pinB 3 to the vehicles body Parking lights - I can cut R/S H2/1 and connect it to ground, then connect R/S H2/2 to negative parking light wire at the headlight switch. This means I don't connect anything to the positive parking light wire under the dash fusebox? Dome light - ill check this later and get back to you. Prepwork - I prepped on the bench as much as I could, braided wires running to the same area, secured them with electrical tape and wire ties. I will clean things up more once I confirm everything's working. I didn't cut any wires yet I didn't think I needed just in case, and these are just rolled up and secured, tips covered in tape. Bypass reset - the led doesn't light up when I attempt to reset it or try to set the installation mode selection. These units were flashed by the guy I bought them from, and he sent me a print out of the flashing procedure as a screen capture. I am awaiting an OL loader in the mail so I can try to flash them again. When I try the reset or installation mode selection I connect the IBM 4pinB harness for power, since I don't have the OL loader. Should I be doing these steps with it connected to the OL loader once it arrives? Or can this be done with the harness connected to the car? Howie thanks for the suggestions on checking connections and grounds. I'll double check these with the multimeter and make sure these are ok. Domelight - I'll get back to you once I check this. Thanks again for the help everyone. Once I get this all figured out I'll post a install guide, but I'll have some more questions before we reach that point.

I'm still running with thoughts of a bad ground or power connection. On your second post you mentioned flashing inst. cluster lights, that's a sure sign of low voltage reaching the ECU via the ignition switch. You will see the same symptom with a flat battery. Nothing wrong with belt and braces for gear shift and parking break NSS leads, simply a pair of 1N4004 diodes bands towards R/S then join. If you don't diode the parking brake will show on the instrument cluster as being "applied" every time you go into neutral, even during gear shifts. Again you can pick up the parking brake either at the existing switch at the base of the lever or on the instrument cluster. I think the other ideas are somewhat "over the top", again no disrespect because I have no idea of your knowledge/capabilities levels but get the R/S working before you try other things, beginners very often over reach themselves. I'm not pointing a finger at you but there are two posts here where people who in my opinion have heavily struggled to do basic work and are over reaching and under achieving, Kregg knows who I'm talking about. Braiding the cable? WHY? You ain't wiring up explosives with a static electricity problem, just making your wiring obvious to a thief!

Re - bypass module:

For the Fit, the correct, current firmware is ADS DLSL HA2 ( or OL DB HA2 ).  Once the firmware is flashed, you shouldn't need

to re-flash it.  As a matter of fact you can program it to one car, use it, de-install it, Factory Reset it and install it into anothercar ( that uses the same module / firmware ) and program it to the new car without re-flashing. 

The Factory Reset should work using just the 4 Pin power plug ( Red to +12V & Black to ground ).  I usually do this on the bench

with a an old 12V battery from a Personal Computer UPS unit.  You should be able to do this with it in the car ( battery connected )as described earlier.  Double check your power & ground connections to and through the R/S  from the bypass.  While Howard mentioned it earlier, it's a good idea to remember that all these connections between the Bulldog, bypass and vehicle should be well soldered and insulated.  (Unless you have a high quality crimping tool and are comfortable in it's use.)  T-Taps, Sctoch-Loks andbutt connectors are less than ideal in a moving vehicle.

Additionally, you might not be able to get into the iDatalink WEB site to flash your module ( even with the USB cable ) as this area

is restricted to registered, authorized users.

Parking Lights :

You can use one or the other listed wires ( + or - ).  Using the (-) Parking Light wire is usually easier to find, safer to use and requires less current draw through the R/S unit. 

Soldering is fun!

I only had time to make a few changes, but I made significant progress. I connected IBM 4pinB: 3 Black [Ground] -------- RS:H2/3 Black [System Ground] and attached these to the chasis to ground them to the body. I also was able to perform a restore on the IBM after doing this. I then successfully set the IBM to hardwire mode and programmed it to my key. After programming the Tach, I attempted to remote start the car. The dashboard lights up (normally, no flickering), the engine doesn't turn over, and I don't hear the starter crank. The RS key fob will lock and unlock the doors successfully, and will show that the car is running after I try to remote start (even though the car doesn't crank). I also tried with the clutch pressed, and the results were the same. This is definitely progress. I will try to wire the starter/crank between the car, RS and IBM which is why I don't think it cranks during remote start. I installed the hoodpin switch, and checked that it shows 0 ohms when grounded (hood open), and 1 ohm when hood closed. I'll connect this as well next, as well as the parking lights. I'll keep my progress posted on here.

Install's been going great. I have everything working. I will do a better post detailing my changes later. I can now remote start the car. I had to connect the ground while running wire from the remote starter (which also goes to the bypass) with a diode to the output from the clutch. This allows the starter to remote start without the clutch being pressed. My new issue is that the remote starter will crank for a while (3-4 seconds) on occasion. It's usually when I haven't started the car recently ( by key or remote start). The second time I remote start ( after a long crank) the car cranks normally ( less than 1 second). The remote starter can use tech leaning and I programmed the tach learning. It remote starts with. Normal crank immediately fret, but agains after long breaks between starts it will crank long if remote started for the first time. I also changed the setting for voltage checking to be the low type, which is recommended in the manful if the starter cranks for too long. I haven't yet successfully been able to program the start timer but that is my next step. I'm not sure why it's cranking long with tech learning. I was wondering if I should place a diode t the connection to my tach signal wire to the remote starter? Or if anyone has any other recommendations.

Sorry for the typos. It should read "The remote starter can use tach leaning and I have programmed the tach learning. It remote starts with a normal crank time immediately faster programming the tach, but again after long breaks between starts it will crank long if remote started again for the first time. I also changed the setting for voltage checking to be the low type, which is recommended in the manual if the starter cranks for too long."

I'm confused, did you hardwire the tach? Does it start on tach or voltage?

From your problem description, I'm not sure if the vehicle is over-cranking or just taking longer to start.  Most Honda's

will crank longer when cold ( especially during winter ).  Your problem could be just the Tach Learn RPM setting.  Sometimes you must do the Tach Learn on a warm engine at low idle.

On Page 21 of the Install guide, near the middle of the page is a note that indicates that the unit MUST be set for Tach or

Oil Pressure sensing when installed on a Manual Transmission vehicle.  There appears to be a rather elaborate Tach Learning and adjust procedure detailed in the guide.  As previously mentioned, Tach Sensing is usually the best, most accurate, method to use for engine starting.  Oil pressure switches are a simple ON/OFF at about 5 PSI and not recommended for this purpose.As noted earlier, I had many issues with other Bulldog models in Tach Mode, either learning the tach signal or consistentlystarting the vehicle without over cranking or having to attempt 2 or 3 times before getting the engine running.

 

Soldering is fun!

Kregg; about increasing RPM to about 1300 on programming. In fact as a point a warm engine idles at a LOWER RPM than a cold engine, hence increasing the revs rather than waiting for a warm engine. In other words I'm recommending high idle, exactly opposite to Kregg's advice so please try either till one works. No anti-grind in the set-up? OP can probably realise why Omega products don't often show up in the recommendations.