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remote start crank and start but fails


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calitech247 
Copper - Posts: 68
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 02, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 12, 2012 at 1:08 PM / IP Logged  

Hey board,

So I installed a Crimeguard 830i6 in a 1999 Yukon XLT (4 door, not diesal, no immobilizer). My problem is that the car will crank and it seems to start but then it stops. with the key you have to turn the ignition over for a little while to start the car and not sure if that is adding to the problem. I did NOT solder the connects at the main remote start wire harness (t-taps). I did connect all the wires: 12 Volt, Ignition, 2nd Ignition, Starter, Accessory. The tach wire (white wire) under the hood is fine and programmed to the unit. The brake, hood, and nuetral safety connections are all fine. I programmed the unit to automatic and set the crank to the highest possible 2.25 seconds. Still have same problem.

Has any one had this problem before???

Thanks

chev104275 
Gold - Posts: 1,427
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2007
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: July 12, 2012 at 1:33 PM / IP Logged  
I'm willing to bet you have passlock 2 immobilizer in that truck in which case you will need a bypass module. I could be wrong but I've never come across one that didn't
As far as you're connections get rid of those t-taps and solder/tape you're connections with good quality tape
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 12, 2012 at 1:37 PM / IP Logged  

Times 2 with Joe.

Pretty sure the truck has the Passlock2 immobilizer system.  While

any hardware store can make a replacement $1.99 key, the immobilizer
is actually inside the ignition switch.  It is resistor based and
requires a bypass module of some sort.  Check the steering column by
the ignition harness for a group of 3 thin wires, probably Yellow,
ORANGE / Black and RED / White.

Search on-line for the DEI 555L, 556L or 556LW bypass module.  They are

usually around $15.  There are also many others available that will
bypass the Passlock2 on your truck including the old fashioned "relays
and resistor" method ( http://documents.audiovox.com/700054.pdf ).

Soldering is fun!
calitech247 
Copper - Posts: 68
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 02, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 12, 2012 at 1:59 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the input,

I thought that only cars with a plastic fitting around the end of the key had an immobilizer? Hopefully I am wrong because that would solve it. Except the key I use to start the car is a metal key all around, no plastic chip inside. I have a 556U but I used used to putting chipped keys in those. Again my key is all metal. But I will be soldering my connections.

chev104275 
Gold - Posts: 1,427
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2007
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: July 12, 2012 at 2:22 PM / IP Logged  
Follow what kreg said   your truck will start with a metal key. The immobilizer Is in the ing cylinder not the key
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
calitech247 
Copper - Posts: 68
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 02, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 1:58 AM / IP Logged  
Mission accomplished!
I couldn't find a 555l or 556l. All I had was an XK09 and it was hell programming it. But it worked!
Thanks Kreg and Chev

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