code alarm ca6550 remote start 98 inte

okay tried without the relay.... no workie tried the blue/black ignition 3 option it say to in install book.. I can hear the relay click but still no crank from starter relay 86 to jump to pink ign output 87- 12volts 85- blue/black module 30- to vehi 2nd or 3rd ign wire

This is too simple of a car for a install. No bypass, simple wire set at the ignition. You need to get a DMM and test and verify each wire at the ignition switch. In the down loads section of this site is the install manual for the Viper 5701. In it is a section on how to find and test for the wires you need, 12 volt constant, Ignition, Accessory, and starter. Also test other wires for possible Ignition 2, accesory 2, ect, ect.

Are you soldering the wires or using some kink of crimp device? Scothhlocks? T-Taps?

PURPLE_ORANGE?  To What!     Relay to 2nd  3rd Ignition? You need to know what you are connecting to.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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this is how you should have this wired: both red wires from alarm to white at ignition harness pink wire to the BLACK / YELLOW 1st ignition pink/white to the WHITE/ black 2nd ignition orange wire to the yellow 1st accessory purple wire to the BLACK/ white starter i am not there to look or test so this is assuming that my wiring diagram is correct. IF there are any differences in color or any extra wires at your ignition harness that are not listed above then you need to test that wire to find out what it does and then hook that wire up to an appropriate source based on how that wire acts when you cycle the key.

YEa its simple but last I remember the only wire to cut is the starter.. the rest is just T-tap the wire required to match.. weird I feel its a programming or miss match wire together. Is there a difference. but I'm splicing on the key side not after the main plug connecter like behind the fuse box or plug connector..

THANKS soundnsecurity for your help let me stick this in my head and use the METER.. This is great information. I'll try tomorrow and hope I have more luck. thanks again

soundnsecurity wrote: joelr7309 wrote: I hooked up everything on the main wire PURPLE-ORANGE everything is hooked. now I'll try to just remove the relay and see if it works. I have a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgYuXc_2lcg&feature=youtu.be thanks guys i didnt mean that everything from the alarm main harness needs to be hooked up..., i meant that every wire in the cars ignition harness needs to be hooked up. if you have any unused wires on the cars ignition harness then you need to find out what those wires do and hook them to the alarm. a remote starter works simply by copying what the ignition harness does when you cycle the key to start the car. if a wire has power during a normal start cycle but is not being powered by the remote starter then that is a problem that needs to be fixed. if you have unused wires at the ignition harness then that means they are not getting any power from the remote starter during remote start then that is your problem. just because the alarm has a certain amount of wires coming from it doesnt mean that your car will have the same amount of wires needing to be powered in order to start and run. sometimes wires need to be added to the remote starter for it to be able to run your car. also it might not be that you have missed a wire, it could just be that you have an ignition wire being powered as an accessory wire. the difference between an ignition and an accessory wire is that an ignition wire stays powered while you are cranking the starter and an accessory wire will lose power during crank. if you have a wire that tests as an ignition but you have it being powered as an accessory then could also be a reason why your car wont start unless you have the key in the on position. you cant trust tech sheets and wiring diagrams to be right all the time, you need to test and verify that everything is accounted for and being used the right way. use a meter, test the wires at the ignition harness and verify that everything is getting the power it needs to act exactly like they do when you use the key to start the car. also the purple starter wire does not hook directly to a relay, it needs to go to the cars starter wire. get the car running before you worry about the starter kill relay.

OK I got the RS started.. One of my T-taps came loose and was not giving Starter signal.. I removed the Kill Start Relay. but I would really want it on .. does anyone know the diagram of the way the relay should be. I'm I suck with relays And now since the Purple is T-Tap with the starter. What output wire should I use.. Thank SoundsNSecurity

Starter Kill :  Here is a link to a basic Starter Kill circuit :  https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp  Top diagram.

You will need a 30/40 Amp SPDT Relay and one 1N4007 diode.  Follow the diagram and wire as below :

Relay Pin 85 to CA6550 Orange GWA output wire on the 6 Pin Output harness

Relay Pin 86 to CA6550 Pink IGN1 wire on the 6 Pin Start Harness ( this wire also goes to the vehicles BLACK / YELLOW IGN1 wire )Relay Pin 30 to vehicle cut BLACK/ White Starter wire vehicle side - also connect CA6550 Violet Starter wire from 6 Pin Start harnessRelay Pin 87A to vehicle cut BLACK/ White Starter wire ignition switch sideRelay Pin 87 is not used - insulate

As you already found out T-Taps and wire crimps don't work well.  For reliable operation, you should solder all these

connections. 

Soldering is fun!

yea T-taps are probably the worst thing you can use to connect wires. they fall off all the time and when you use them on big wires they tend to cut into the wire and over time can eventually cut the wire. i would definitely try to solder the wires together instead of using a connector .

kreg357 wrote: Starter Kill :  Here is a link to a basic Starter Kill circuit :  https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp  Top diagram. You will need a 30/40 Amp SPDT Relay and one 1N4007 diode.  Follow the diagram and wire as below : Relay Pin 85 to CA6550 Orange GWA output wire on the 6 Pin Output harness Relay Pin 86 to CA6550 Pink IGN1 wire on the 6 Pin Start Harness ( this wire also goes to the vehicles BLACK / YELLOW IGN1 wire ) Relay Pin 30 to vehicle cut BLACK/ White Starter wire vehicle side - also connect CA6550 Violet Starter wire from 6 Pin Start harness Relay Pin 87A to vehicle cut BLACK/ White Starter wire ignition switch side Relay Pin 87 is not used - insulate As you already found out T-Taps and wire crimps don't work well.  For reliable operation, you should solder all these connections.

Ok I tried this and for some reason it didnt work. but the remote start works.. I arm the car and then turn the key.. alarm goes off but you can still start the car while alarm ringing..

Use a DMM to verify the CA6550 Orange GWA signal is present when the system is locked / armed.  Also verify it continues its' output when in alarm state.

Use a DMM to verify that relay Pin 86 has +12V with the vehicles Ignition is ON.

Soldering is fun!