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problem with remote starter cranking


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jonnythan 
Member - Posts: 21
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Joined: November 30, 2012
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 3:03 PM / IP Logged  
If I do that the car continues to run after the key is removed. The only ground wire hooked up to the bypass would be the one included on the DBI connector to the remote starter.
jstruckman 
Copper - Posts: 465
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Joined: May 03, 2004
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 3:12 PM / IP Logged  
ON your remote starter there is a ground while running (GWR) or status output wire, on your bypass there is a GWR input this needs  to be connected for the bypass to work.
jonnythan 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2012
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 3:13 PM / IP Logged  
For more info:
There's a 4-pin wire running between the Flashlogic module and the remote starter. Red, black, white, blue pins on the Flashlogic side and GREEN/ black (factory disarm before start), blue (pulse after start), GREEN / WHITE (arm after shutdown), and BLACK / YELLOW (pulse during crank) on the remote starter side.
jstruckman 
Copper - Posts: 465
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 03, 2004
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  
Is your bypass programmed for D2D mode, and your door lock module , is that connected also in D2D . The blue wire on the DBI connector is your GWR input wire, you might cut that wire and use the GWR output  on your RS to your that wire.
jonnythan 
Member - Posts: 21
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Joined: November 30, 2012
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  
The only ground I see on the remote starter is pin #1, black, on the light harness connector. Simply says "Ground."
jstruckman 
Copper - Posts: 465
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 03, 2004
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 3:25 PM / IP Logged  
It mght says status ouptut wire also, i am to lazy to look up the manual for your remote start. but all remote starters will have a GWR output or status output wire, usually a blue wire or sometime a BROWN / black wire. It is an output not an input. and just to test also, you can take that blue wire in the DBI connector directly to ground and see if the vehicle will start then. It is definitley something with your bypass since the vehicle will stay running with the key out.
jstruckman 
Copper - Posts: 465
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 03, 2004
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 3:31 PM / IP Logged  

Okay it is a BLACK / YELLOW wire- pulse during crank. This is the wire you need

jonnythan 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2012
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 3:55 PM / IP Logged  
Is the "bulbtest" wire the "ground while running" wire that you guys are talking about? How can I use a DMM or test light to verify that I have the wire I need? I remember I think that I hooked the gree "bulbtest" wire on the Flashlogic to the black wire coming out of the main ignition harness. Does that sound right?
There's a status LED on the Flashlogic module. When I attempt to remote start, it does not flash at all. The Flashlogic module indicates that this is "invalid ground when running status from remote starter." So this is most likely the problem.
Thanks for the tips so far guys. I don't have the torx driver I need to get to the ignition harness to check the connections there. I will open it up and check it out in a few days when the car is back at my place.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 02, 2012 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged  
Bulb, one side to a constant 12 volt constant source, other to suspect wire, engage R/S that bulb should light up.
With a DMM, set to 20VDC, red probe to 12v+ constant as above, black probe to suspect wire, again engage R/S, you should get 12.4-12.7V reading.
jonnythan 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2012
Posted: December 09, 2012 at 2:49 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. You got me looking in the right place. Turned out that the T-tap connections for the ignition to the Flashlogic wasn't plugged in correctly. The tab was shoved under the tap and not inside. No wonder it couldn't get a valid ground - there was no valid ignition signal!
I would have never considered that it was the Passlock bypass though.
Thanks! It works great now.
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