simple 12v 30amp pcb?

I was wondering if it would be possible or if anyone has a link to something where I could make a relay board? I have a Fiat spider I do not have much room to put those huge bosch relays under the dash especially since i need 5 of them. Basically I have one for the cooling fan and fog lights that's a 30 amp relay,headlight low and high beam are 40 amp relay, now wanted one more starter motor. But if I could build a small pcb board that would house the relays for half the size that would help a great deal.

Hello, Wouldn't it be easier to just get a relay socket and try and hid the relay somewhere that has space? Just a thought. I'm a newbie so just thinking out loud. lol

Why not use the micro-ISO relays? Just make sure they are not the intermittent rated tyes like some I have seen. But I'd suggest wires instead of a PCB due to the high current capacity.

The fact that you have a Fiat means you must be well versed in electrical and rust problems. There's no PCB board made for standard relays, there are some PCB mounting relays, see Farnell, Mouser US or RS components UK. Omron make "micro relays" as used by Ford, Mercedes and some Japanese. Another UK firm, Raw Components make waterproof fuse and relay boxes which join together Lego fashion, but then that's the Italian failure, mounting electrical components unprotected in the engine bay.

korrupt3dazn "Hello, Wouldn't it be easier to just get a relay socket and try and hid the relay somewhere that has space? Just a thought. I'm a newbie so just thinking out loud. lol" Yea that would be easy I wanted to see if I could make something a little different basically complicating something simple and making a project out of it since the car is self is one. Thanks for the quick reply. [B}Old Spark "Why not use the micro-ISO relays? Just make sure they are not the intermittent rated tyes like some I have seen. But I'd suggest wires instead of a PCB due to the high current capacity." I was actually thinking of that last night that's a good idea and I can use them in a small grouping right next to the cramped fuse box. Thanks howie ll "The fact that you have a Fiat means you must be well versed in electrical and rust problems. There's no PCB board made for standard relays, there are some PCB mounting relays, see Farnell, Mouser US or RS components UK. Omron make "micro relays" as used by Ford, Mercedes and some Japanese. Another UK firm, Raw Components make waterproof fuse and relay boxes which join together Lego fashion, but then that's the Italian failure, mounting electrical components unprotected in the engine bay." Yea this one took a swim so now I had to buy new wiring loom and reconfigure some wires since they seem to try and use 1 circuit to power everything in the car or use 4 fuses just for the headlights. I am going to use those companies you stated and try and find some micro relays. I don't want the wiring to look like some of these cars where someone puts fog lights in and runs a power & ground wire from the battery over the engine and to the relay mounted to the front of the car, instead of making it neat and using the fuse box.

Actually what I mentioned about electrical problems under the hood along with rusting after 6 months is what killed Lancia in the UK. I still don't trust ANY Fiats or Alfas even though now use AMP connectors. Alfa GTVs are good for about 3 years before complete electrical failure. Methinks you will end up going for a complete engine bay loom and fuse box.

Mount all relays terminals down, spray over with moisture retarder or lithium grease, enclose in a sealed box with the cable grommet underneath.

"Actually what I mentioned about electrical problems under the hood along with rusting after 6 months is what killed Lancia in the UK. I still don't trust ANY Fiats or Alfas even though now use AMP connectors. Alfa GTVs are good for about 3 years before complete electrical failure. Methinks you will end up going for a complete engine bay loom and fuse box." Yea they have horrible problems with rust fortunately for me someone told me about por15 and some tricks for rust. There's also pretty common places where they rust if you a do a little research you can basically stop it in its tracks. It does however not touch salt nor rain and garaged. Bucket seats & 5 point harness & turbo are not really practical for driving everyday in NY. But i really haven't had any problems with the wiring in terms of rust only the grounds which aren't that bad to fix if you zinc coat them, it only has 3 ground pods G1,G2,G3. The only real problem I see is the way the power is distributed like one fuse controls the blower motor and heater motor that's a big no no, also they use the lighting switch fuse to power the radio so when you turn the lights on it affects the radio also a big no no. I have created two more fuses by relaying lights and combining the high L with R fuse and Low L with R that way I can have some proper power to the components that need independent circuits. Also just like any older car connections get dirty and over time break down I have cleaned every connector on the car which in reality took 1hr with harness pulled and coated with paste for anti rust. The other big thing is the starters use direct juice from the ignition yikes what a bad idea, you ever see the inside of those ignition switches talk about a weak link in Italian cars, the solenoid or starter gets old the amps go up and fry the contacts. Which i am going to fix with the relay. You wouldn't happen to know where i could find a 131 stick shift housing? or a 132 banjo rear?

A bit of an aside... The "James Bond Cars" doco with what's-his-pop from whatever that post-Braniac car show was on last night. He reckoned the Alfa (GTV?) was the ultimate Bond car (for the average person) costing a mere £4,000 - PLUS about £1,000,000 in maintenance LOL! Mind you, that may reflect some owners... A mate loves his Alfas but said the oft replacing of head-gaskets was a pain. How often - typically every 3 months! It turns out he would smear the gaskets in GRAPHITE to make them easier to remove! [ Mind you, they were my silly days too - like engine bores, I'd merely "wash" the head & block gasket faces with petrol, though I'd still get at least years from both. These days I get decades.) ]

Mr. Spyder, I tip my hat to you any other "tips" on protection and preparation would be teaching you to suck eggs. And yes I forgot about the zinc. Should have remembered back in the days of naked BMW, Mercedes etc. I used to paint every fresh drilled aerial hole with zinc primer. One thought, wreckers yard, engine bay of vehicle using convoluted plastic tubing, get it! You made me laugh about the Fiat 131, I owned one; an auto from 75-78. Every morning after a rainy night my then wife had a laugh when I had to pull the splugs and cook them in the oven for a few minutes to make the mustard fire up. Bought a 3 litre V6 Capri after that with my luck it had the Dagenham dustbin/Essex engine that the accountants got their hands on pre-production*. The later Cologne 2.8V injection from Germany that made it's way into some US Fords was a much better engine. *Prototypes were chucking out 300hp back in the early 70s, by the time it made production, the injection system became a carb, the 24 valve twin cam become an OHV with cheap gaskets and 136hp! Thank you Henry F. ll. Oh and new head gaskets every couple of years.