avital 5303, 2005 camry troubleshooting

Hi guys, I'm in the middle of trying to install an Avital 5303 on my 2005 Camry (no transponder), and I am having problems getting things working correctly. So far I have only connected: Relay Satellite H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE) H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE) H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT (at ignition) H/4 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT H/5 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT (at ignition) H/6 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT H/7 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT (at ignition) H/8 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT Relay Satellite 4-pin connector: 3 Purple to 2nd Starter via a relay (at ignition) Main Harness: H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT POWER INPUT (at ignition) H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND H1/11 WHITE (+/-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT to Parking Lights Remote start harness, (H3) 5-pin connector: H3/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT (to Ground) H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE (to Brake) The car DOES start using the remote, however now I can't start using the key. Also when it starts, I hear a relay clicking in the RS and the parking lights continue to flash. I was wondering if it had to do with the security settings, so I tried to enter the programming menu by grounding the green H1/8 door trigger, but I can't seem to get into the menu. When I ground that wire i get the same flashing parking lights. Am I missing a necessary connection, or a setting I can change if it has to do with security features? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

sounds like your starter kill is keeping it from starting with key. you either have a bad internal relay for starter kill or you have the alarm armed

or you have a bad connection on the green wire of the avital unit to the "key" side of the starter wire. The relay clicking while remote started is probably the parking light relay because your parking lights are flashing. There is a programming setting in the manual that says Parking light output. You want to set that to constant instead of pulsed. programming manually is very tricky and takes alot of getting used to. I have a BitWriter that does my programming. I manually programmed once, the next day I bought a BitWriter...LOL.

DBP67..... After doing a 2002 camry and finishing it up last weekend, I'll try and help. First and foremost, I hope you did not cut the WHITE /RED thick gauge wire going to the key switch. That's your 12v constant. Also, while doing the install, I found that even if the GREEN heavy gauge wire was not connected, that car will still start. I took several pictures of my install, so I'll check and see what I got when I get home from work. The 12v WHITE/ RED wire was a real pain in the ass for me to do, mainly because I had to attach 2 heavy gauge wires from the alarms relay satellite and 2 wires for the relays...1 for the starter relay, and the other to open the trunk. Then I soldered with a small butane torch, because my butane soldering gun wasn't going to heat those big boy wires in a timely manner. Try that without burning any wires or plastic trim while holding the torch in one hand solder in the other, on your back, upside-down, with a 1" flame !! Yes....soldering is fun ! Get some zip ties if you don't have any. Home Depot sells an assortment for like $5. Your going to have to secure that large bundle of heavy gauge wires so that they don't move around over time. Vibrations can cause all kinds of havoc. Remember flight 800 over the Atlantic? She blew up because some wires were sparking due to vibration. And a doodie load of Jet-A vapors....but you get my point. Post a pic of your wires going to your ignition/key switch, and lets make sure you got everything right.

hey levithan9...I was following your post and got some great advice from it already...did you straighten out your phantom start problem? Anyway I reconnected everything and I think I have everything straightened out. I actually did cut the starter2 wire and connected the green wire so I could use the anti-grind feature. I attached 5 wires to the WHITE/ red...it was a hell of a solder mess! I ran the trunk release to the thick 12V BLACK/ green wire going to the fuse-box, I suppose i should have run them all there. Where did you run the H1/2 red wire from the main ignition harness? I ran that there too. The problem I'm having now is getting the door locks to work. Did you get yours working? When I try to change feratures through tthe program menu, I'm not sure they are sticking. I'm also trying to disable the security features, but again I'm not sure how to do that if it is even possible, though it seems to be from reading the quick install guide. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!

I soldered the H7 wire to the H5 wire, then soldered the H5 wire to the H3 wire, therefore I would only have to attach 1 wire to the 12v constant WHITE/ Red wire. As for the H1/2 RED wire,,I ran that bitch all the way to the battery, and placed an inline fuse with a 10 amp fuse. My door locks worked just fine when I attached the wires. My problem was when I hit UNLOCK, only the drivers door would unlock. If I pressed UNLOCK again, nothing would happen. I needed a DOUBLE PULSE UNLOCK for all the doors to unlock. That's when I started dicking around with the security functions. Let me tell you, it's a pain in the ass to try and figure out #1-how to get into the menu settings with the VALET switch and #2-trying to figure out how to get to the door lock or unlock function and change the setting. I'm thinking that's when I changed something with the remote starter function. I just pulled the fuse going to the brain, and I'll mess around with it this weekend. Any who, I finally did get to change the unlock setting to DOUBLE PULSE. I'm thinking the BIT WRITER is going to be my next hobby purchase. I'm planning on doing another Avital 5303 on my truck this spring. When I get home, I'll post pictures of the lock and unlock wires and their locations. Or do you already know where the wires are located, but are just having another problem? Let me know.

I should have spliced some of the 12V inputs together like that, it would have made my install much less of a hassle. I connected the lock/unlock wires at the driver kick panel, I'm pretty sure I connected the right ones, I tested them before I made the connection. I'll check your pics when you get a chance to post them, and double check my connections, maybe I have them reversed. Thanks.

I am still having problems with the door lock. The unlock works fine, but the door lock does not work using the remote. I'm sure it is connected to the correct wire, as the doors will lock when the remote starter is activated, but they don't lock if i disconnect the lock/unlock connections. I did a feature reset, and still have the same problem . Does anyone know if there is a setting I am missing or something? Thanks