Remote start into ' 03 Town & Country

I am about to put a remote starter into a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country. I know that there's all types of multiplexing going on in these cars. Has anybody done this one yet? Is there anything unexpected? I have some notes on this car which do not look up to date. I've been told something about a 180 ohm resistor on a second starter wire. I've also been told that I only have to hook up to one ignition wire. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

i've done one, nothing to bad. I would recomend if your going to do locks and sliding door along with a transponder I would get the bypass moudle from bypasskits.com. I have one i'm trying to get rid of for $40. I'll look up a wire diagram when i get a chance.

Those cars aren't nearly as hard as the tech sheets make them out to be. In the driver's kick are two large harnesses...open up the one that's closer to the rear of the car. One of the WHITE/ tans is brake, and one of the WHITE/ browns is positive parking lights. Yes, we do straight positive lights on all of these vans, and none of them have broken yet. If you do the sliders or power hatch, you can get their wires in the forward harness in the driver's kick...much easier than reaching to the BCM. I've always been able to go straight through a resistor from the remote starter's outputs; I've never had to use relays. For locks, we use 1.8k for unlock, 4.2k for lock, and we don't use relays here either---we just use diodes to isolate the remote starter's lock/unlock outputs from each other. But if the car has a factory alarm, the resistor values and wire location will be different. For constant power, there's a large WHITE/ red at the top plug of the BCM. It is also available in the driver's kick in some models. The second starter wire (PURPLE / brown) is negative through a 180-ohm resistor. Do you happen to carry Audiovox product? We use the Audiovox's BLACK / YELLOW low-current negative starter output, and we tie it directly to the car's PURPLE / brown, with NO resistor and no relay.....it happens to provide just the right signal; it works every time.

It so happens that we do use the audiovox product. Do you mean the BLACK / YELLOW on the 4 pin harness?(pulse during start I think) What about this business of only one ignition wire? Another quick question would be about the power hatch and sliding doors. Are they also multiplexed? Thanks for all the help.

Yes, the BLACK / YELLOW on the 4-pin harness will do the second starter. What are you using? Probably a Prestige APS-685, or a Pursuit PRO-9175FT4, right? Just connect that BLACK / YELLOW directly up to the PURPLE / brown and you'll be fine. Oh, and the only trouble with that second starter wire is, even if you get it wrong, the van will still start sometimes.....so after you're done, you should operate the remote start a few times, a few minutes apart, and make sure it works every single time. And yes, the one main ignition wire does everything---the engine, the climate controls, the radio too. The sliders and the hatch are multiplexed. Find the PURPLE / tan and the PURPLE / blue in the driver's kick panel; they're in the harness that's closer to the front of the car. Or, if you wish, the overhead switch removes with just one screw, and you can get them there. The PURPLE / tan does the hatch through a resistor, and the PURPLE / blue can do either the left or the right sliding door, depending on which resistor value you use....if you use a resistor value that's halfway between the two, you can operate both sliding doors at the same time...but most customers don't like that. You've probably already realized that your Audiovox unit has only two auxillary outputs, but there are three doors that you want to control...this presents a problem. There are a few ways to handle this, and none of them are perfect, but do the best you can: 1. Select a halfway-between resistor so that your Option button operates both sliding doors at the same time. 2. Use your remote to control the two doors that the customer thinks are most important; he'll have to operate the other one manually. 3. Make use of the RED / black second-unlock output from the remote starter...this output is triggered whenever the user pushes "unlock" twice. Also, I'll give you DEI's tech sheet on this car. In all cases, though, you don't need relays. Just select a resistor that is slighly smaller than the one that is called for, and it'll work fine. When you're doing the doorlocks, use diodes inline too, so that the positive pulses don't come out anymore. |       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        | |              12V|lt blue/red (10A) *1|+ |ignition harness            | |          STARTER|yellow              |+ |ignition harness            | |   SECOND STARTER|PURPLE / brown *12    |- |ignition harness            | |        IGNITION|pink/white          |+ |ignition harness            | |        ACCESSORY|*11                 |   |                            | |       POWER LOCK|PURPLE / green *3     |- |conn. 3, pin 21 @ BCM *2    | |     POWER UNLOCK|same wire           |   |                            | |       LOCK MOTOR|tan/white           |   |conn. 2, pin 10 @ BCM *2    | |     UNLOCK MOTOR|tan/lt. green       |   |conn. 2, pin 28 @ BCM *2    | |    DISARM DEFEAT|tan/brown           |   |conn. 2, pin 26 @ BCM *2    | | PARKING LIGHTS +|DO NOT USE          |   |                            | | PARKING LIGHTS -|WHITE/ brown *8      |   |headlight switch            | |       HEADLIGHTS|same wire           |   |                            | |     DOOR TRIGGER|*4                  |- |BCM *2                      | | DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger    |   |                            | | TRUNK/HATCH PIN|PURPLE / orange *9    |- |conn. 3, pin 29 @ BCM *2    | |        HOOD PIN|PURPLE / lt. blue     |- |conn. 3, pin 30 @ BCM *2    | |TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|*10                 |   |*10                         | | FCTRY ALARM ARM|PURPLE / lt. blue     |*5 |conn. 3, pin 14 @ BCM *2    | |FCTRY ALRM DISARM|same wire           |   |                            | |       TACHOMETER|*6                  |   |ignition coil pack          | |      SPEED SENSE|blue/orange        |   |PCM *7                      | |       BRAKE WIRE|WHITE/ tan           |+ |brake pedal switch          | |     HORN TRIGGER|GREEN/ purple        |- |steering column             | |           WIPERS|brn/wht & brn/org   |+ |wiper motor                 | | LF WINDOW UP/DN|org/lt grn - org/wht|A |drivers window switch       | | RF WINDOW UP/DN|org/tan - org/gry   |A |drivers kick panel          | | LR WINDOW UP/DN|org/blu - org/lt blu|A |drivers kick panel          | | RR WINDOW UP/DN|org/gry - org/grn   |A |drivers kick panel          | |        RADIO 12V|gray/red            |+ |radio                      | |     RADIO GROUND|                    |   |                            | |     RADIO SWITCH|blue/pink           |+ |radio                      | | RADIO ILLUMINATE|ORANGE / tan          |+ |radio                      | |       LF SPEAKER|green - grn/brn     |   |radio                      | |       RF SPEAKER|gray - gray/brn     |   |radio                      | |       LR SPEAKER|grn/blu - grn/org   |   |radio                      | |       RR SPEAKER|gry/blu - gry/org   |   |radio                      | Notes: NOTE: Chrysler vehicles that use a gray ignition key have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when remote starting. Use DEI part number 555C or 555U. *1 This wire is rated at 10 amps only. If installing any system with high current outputs, go to battery for 12v. *2 The BCM is in the drivers kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs. *3 Lock is negative trigger thru a 5.3K ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 2.0K ohm resistor. MUST use relays. *4 There are separate door triggers for each door, they are all in connector 3 at the BCM. The driver door trigger is purple in pin 6, the passenger door is PURPLE / white in pin 7, the left sliding door is PURPLE / gray in pin 8, and the right sliding door is purple / YELLOW in pin 5. Use all four and diode isolate each. See directfax document #1076 for wiring information. *5 Arm is negative trigger thru a 1.5K ohm resistor, this will also lock the doors. Disarm is negative trigger thru a 9.1K ohm resistor, if use double pulse this will also unlock the doors. MUST use relays. *6 On the 2.4L use blue/green or blue/tan. On the 3.3L/3.8L use blue/green, blue/tan or blue/orange.   *7 The PCM is behind the driver side headlight. VSS is in the gray plug, pin 66. *8 The parking lights are negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. The headlights are negative trigger thru a 790 ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch. See directfax document # 1082 for wiring information. *9 A diode must be placed inline on this wire to avoid problems with the dome lights and parking lights. *10 Hatch release is PURPLE / tan in connector 2, pin 6 at the BCM. It is negative trigger thru a 1.69K ohm resistor. Left power sliding door is PURPLE / blue in connector 3, pin 1 at the BCM. It is negative trigger thru a 1.5K ohm resistor. Right power sliding door is the same wire as the left and it is negative trigger thru a 2.7K ohm resistor. Must use relays. *11 Accessory is not required for remote start. *12 The second starter wire is negative trigger thru a 180 ohm resistor. MUST use relay. Refer to directfax document #1083 for wiring information.

Thanks so much. I actually might use the 996 which has quite a few more outputs. If not the customer has said that they might just want to keep the factory remote and have a seperate remote just to start the car. - in which case I'm going to use the 55LR. (I'm not sure if that one also has the 4 pin harness, if not then I'll just have to use the resistor) Thanks again