Remote Start, 2006 Crown Victoria CVPI

Need wiring diagram and for remote start and keyless entry Also what bypass should I use? relays for door locks and trunk pop? Thanks in advance

Well, the good news is that P71's do not have the ford PATS immobilizer system so there will be no need for a transponder bypass.

Here is a link to wiring info from ReadyRemote for your car :

http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Ford

Here is a link to Bulldog Security for their version of the wiring info :

http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/printlist.aspx?MakeID=18&ModelID=19647

A couple of things to point out. 

As you can see there are differences in the wire guides, so careful testing is required.  You will probably need an additional relay to power all the ignition circuits.  The door locks are Type A which requires a (+) pulse to operate.  Most R/S w/keyless entry systems only supply a (-) Door Lock Output.  If the system you choose only has (-) Door Lock Outputs you can use relays or a Directed 451M Door Lock Module ( $9 ) to convert to the needed (+) signal.  If you choose to use relays, here is a diagram of the circuit ( 3 wire Positive ) : https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#3wp    If you use a Directed 451M, here is a link to the install guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726  Use Diagram A.The trunk release will also require a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and a 5 wire set-up.  You can use this 5 wire door lock diagram as a guidefor the trunk pop, but only one relay and the R/S's Trunk Release as the relays input : https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram3.html

Soldering is fun!

Thanks a bunch

Ok RS just come in USPS it is a Viper 4105V List of concerns and questions Will I actually need a 2nd relay for ignition circuit?.. I thought the Viper has one built in... I also have a 451M for the doors..I think I can figure that out... I have a relay I plan on using for the trunk but only one... I probably have to use it for defrost...??? Parking lights... + or -? I have a jumper to set it.. I really appreciate the help you all have given me... I tend to overthink things before I start... But once I start the project I do Okay... I have only put in 4 vehicles so I am still a newby..

Will I actually need a 2nd relay for ignition circuit?.. I thought the Viper has one built in...

All depends.  Yes the Viper has a Flex relay that can be set to IGN2 or ACC2.  You must test your car's ignition wires to determine

exactly what you need.  Here is one possible scenario ( as suggested by ReadyRemote ) :Starter = Dark GreenIgnition = PURPLE / OrangeACC1 = Gray / YELLOWACC2 = WHITE/ Light BlueACC3 = WHITE/ Purple

Here is another scenario ( as suggested by Bulldog Security ) :

Starter = Dark GreenIgnition1 = PURPLE / OrangeIgnition2 = Gray / YELLOWACC1 = WHITE/ Light BlueACC2 = WHITE/ Purple

In either case, if you power all the ignition wires listed, the Viper is one +12V high current output short.

Assuming you find it to be as ReadyRemote suggests, here is the Viper wiring :

Viper  6 Pin HarnessPin 6 Pink to P71 Ignition, PURPLE / Orange      Pin 5 Violet to P71 Starter, Dark GreenPin 4 Orange to P71 ACC1, Gray / YELLOWPin 3 Red to P71 GREEN/ PurplePin 2 Pink/White to P71 ACC2, WHITE/ Light BluePin 1 Red to P71 Red

This leaves the P71's ACC3.  An extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay with 20 Amp fuse is needed.  Wire as follows :

Viper 4 Pin Satellite Harness, Pin 2, Orange wire to Relay Pin 85Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant through the 20 Amp fuseRelay Pin 30 to P71 ACC3, WHITE/ Purple

I also have a 451M for the doors..I think I can figure that out...

Fairly straight-forward.  Plug the 451M's 3 Pin plug right into the Vipers Door Lock connector.  Follow the Wiring Diagram A.+12V constant power can come from any vehicle source that can handle the 15 Amp load.

I have a relay I plan on using for the trunk but only one... I probably have to use it for defrost...???

You will need the relay for the trunk release but probably not the rear defroster.  Here is a link for the trunk release relay wiring : http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/15317_CROWN-VICTORIA_FORD%20TRUNK%20RELEASE%20DIAGRAM.pdfThis Viper wire, Pin 7 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT, connects to Pin 85 of the Relay.

Here is Rear Defrost info :

 Rear Defrost GRAY/BLUE (-) Pin 12 of the 22 Pin connector at the LCMLCM (Lighting Control Module) Is Located To The Right Of The Steering Column

Not sure if it's latched or just a pulse, test to determine.  Then program the Viper, Menu 2 Feature 8 Option 2 or 3, as required.

Parking lights... + or -? I have a jumper to set it..

All depends, your choice.  Most installers go with (+) and the Brown wire at the LCM.  But there is a (-) Parking Light wire listed.

Soldering is fun!

well i tried to install and got problems I have never gotten The car turns over and wont start.... Virtual tach not working? lights dont flash....verified 12volts at switch horn does not work... verified it should... trunk works dfrost should...cant check.. I cant fell the 3 acc realy clicking when trying to start Where do I go from here? where do I put tach wire? i have 2 hrs till I go to work... Havent even figured out where to plug the smart start in on viper

Is it possible that the ACC 3 I wired to a relay is actually a IGN? I have no clue why horn does not work nor the light flash...

The Parking Lights should be a slam-dunk.  Verify that the Viper's Parking Light polarity jumper ( on back side of 4105 )  is set to (+) and

the White wire at Pin 9 of the 9 Pin Harness is soldered to the correct CVPI Brown wire in the driver kick or at the LCM, 13 pin plug, pin 10.  As always, use a Digital Multi Meter to test and confirm the Brown Parking Light wire.

The Horn should be straight-forward, too.  After locating and verifying you have the correct Dark Blue horn wire in the CVPI, make the

soldered connection.  Of course, remember that the Viper Menu 1, Feature 1 needs to be changed to Option 2 or 3 for the Viper to output a Horn pulse.

As for the ignition wires, you will need to test their function with a DMM to see exactly what each wire is.  You have the Starter wire correct.

The IGN / ACC differentiation is whether the wire stays at +12V during starter cranking ( IGN ) or drops to 0 volts during cranking ( ACC ).Additionally, I would put the DMM on each Viper ignition output wire during a failed R/S attempt and verify a good output.

It is also a good idea to ensure that the Vipers' Black Chassis Ground wire is solidly connected to the frame of the car using a soldered

on terminal ring.  A clean, rust and paint free area is very important.

Rather than guess, it would be easier if you made up a wiring chart that shows your wire connections ( including the external relays ) and

posted that for the Forum members to see and review.

Soldering is fun!

Thanks I will do what you mention I did test the ACC wire first... but I will double check it I will start over again and test them all I will work on a wiring diagram and post later

alright I got it starting ...doors locking and trunk popping All is almost good in my world.. But I am having a time trying to find the light flash.. I am gonna tell on myself here but I have always tapped into the wire at the switch for the light flash wire.. But I cant get it to work nor find the the brown wire in the humongus loom of wires... I dont even think I can hardly get to the LCM much less read the port numbers... I have tested the white for light flash and I have it set to positive 12v... I have found a wire that read 12v when on.. I gotta do more testing or dig further... Thanks for the help so far and any advice would be appreciated