Remote starting kills battery

Okay I will look into all that. But again why when plugged into the wall it is good? Makes me think the rs is okay.

Ok that is NOT a trickle charger. Still. Program the crank time higher and see what happens.Gary Sather

I honestly can't answer that without knowing voltage during cranking with key vs with remote start vs with remote start on the charger.Gary Sather

Yeah I'm an idiot. Okay I'll try that. You think any chance I have a bad battery? Previous battery didn't have this problem. Unless you think it's programming. Thanks btw. Really appreciate it.

If it's holding a charge And starting fine with the Key it's not your battery.Gary Sather

As far as starting fine while on the jumper you have this is slight speculation but the way the voltage sensing works is it sees a drop in voltage and sees when the voltage picks back up from the alternator charging meaning the car should be running. Being on that jump pack it may not be seeing a drop in voltage so the remote start keeps cranking until the car starts and overcrank protection kicks in.Gary Sather

Okay I appreciate it. Going to mess with it tomorrow. Isn't there a way yo reprogram the vtach as well?

Now that makes a ton of sense!

Further speculation if it has always been on virtual tach then when it was programmed before with a weak battery then it was programmed more than likely seeing a higher voltage drop and rise during cranking and now you have a new bad*** optima and the voltage drop is likely far less and it thinks the car is running sooner than it was before. Reprogram virtual tach and if needed a higher crank time to compensate for the lesser voltage drop and it should all work fine. But again, if at all possible run a tach or if it's run just use tach mode and program tach.Gary Sather

The only speculation I have is that how come after a rs attempt or 2 I can't normal start the car as the voltage is too low. Should a few start attempts really drain a red top that quick?