EasyGO remote start issues

Bought an EasyGO kit (it's supposed to be keyless lock/unlock, push to start, and remote start), and I'm having problems getting the thing to remote start. It starts up, then dies, then restarts 3 times, similar to a bad tach learn. One problem, the main brain doesn't have a GWR or a tach wire. The system works completely as advertised aside from this, proximity lock/unlock, push to start, trunk and horn are working, door status is wired, etc. Using an Omega PASS-4 bypass module, since it's the one that they sell with their kit. All of my wiring is spot on according to the diagram, I tapped every wire right at the BCM and I have tech docs on my vehicle's wiring color codes and everything. Car is a 2010 Chevy Camaro SS (manual). And before I catch flak, yes, I know, bypassing the clutch and installing a remote start on a stickshift is a bad idea. I am understanding of the risks and am choosing to move forward.

Before I go into it I know you said you understand the risk. But do you really? There are many manual transmission safe remote starts on the market for not much more than regular if not the same. It's dangerous. So that being said is the security light coming on ? Is the pass-4 a key in the box bypass? Pretty sure it is. Did you wire in relays for the passlock portion of this?

brownsfan1 wrote: Before I go into it I know you said you understand the risk. But do you really? There are many manual transmission safe remote starts on the market for not much more than regular if not the same. It's dangerous. So that being said is the security light coming on ? Is the pass-4 a key in the box bypass? Pretty sure it is. Did you wire in relays for the passlock portion of this?

The pass-4 is a key-in-the-box, and it has a wire loop that gets zipped to the antenna by the ignition keyhole. Diagram didn't call for any relays, but I do have a spare relay kicking around that I can try to wire in if it means this'll work properly (advice on wiring?). I need to have a friend trigger the remote start while I sit in the seat and observe. From what I saw, the light is coming on, but I will have to verify tomorrow. The wiring for the kit is rather slim to be honest. The power harness has four wires, being 12v, ignition, accessory, and ground. The one other harness is 16 pins and contains can low/hi, door trigger, lock/unlock, brake input, trunk release, parking lights, etc. Nothing says "data" about this kit other than the bypass and the two can-bus wires.

I'm looking at the Directed doc 1605 now, and while that's quite easy to follow, my remote start kit doesn't have a GWR, start output, or whatever "Programmable output" is.

You can use an ignition out. Does it have a relay pack that's separate. With a ribbon cable between the two? The ribbon cable would have the negative ignition out. You could also use the ignition2 out with a relay if ignition2 is not being used.

brownsfan1 wrote: You can use an ignition out. Does it have a relay pack that's separate. With a ribbon cable between the two? The ribbon cable would have the negative ignition out. You could also use the ignition2 out with a relay if ignition2 is not being used.

Ignition keeps the clutch bypassed permanently, and that throws me a code. Gotta be starter only

Diode isolate them