Viper 4806v + dball2 - 2015 Toyota Camry

Hey All, I installed a Viper 4806v with DBALL2 in my 2015 Toyota Camry SE this past weekend with the help of the vehicle wiring information here (thanks!), and it is working great! The unlock/lock/remote start all work correctly and I am enjoying the longer range compared to factory fobs and the ability to warm the car in the mornings. I do have some "after install" questions that I am hoping someone could help me figure out pertaining to the horn, running lights, and defogger. 1) Horn/lights: When I unlock/lock vehicle without the remote start active, I get the classic Toyota/Lexus beeps as normal and the outside marker lights flash. However, when the remote start is active and I unlock the vehicle then the Toyota/Lexus beeps no longer happen, and the marker lights do not flash. There are no lights on at all on the outside when the vehicle is remote started (typically the vehicles runnings lights turn on to show it's running). I assumed all these connections would work through the D2D, but it does not appear that way. Could anyone advise what additional connects I need to make for the beeps to function when unlocking? The marker lights to flash when unlocking? and the parking lights to turn on when the vehicle is remote started? I didn't connect the horn on purpose because I wanted to use the Toyota/Lexus beeps only, I don't want the horn and the beeps because that would be obnoxious. I am puzzled here as to what is going on. 2) defogger I did not make this connection yet on purpose because I wasn't sure the proper configuration. I know I need to connect on the Viper 24 pin harness the "2) blue/white (-) 200mA 2nd status/ rear defogger output" to the vehicles rear defroster green wire (-) passenger kick panel gray 18 pin plug pin 18. But I am not sure on the settings in the Viper. Under menu 3, item 11, I have 3 options: status, latch rear defogger, and pulse rear defogger. Which one do I use and why? How should I test before connecting? I assume it's the 2nd or 3rd option obviously. Also, is the 200 mA output from the Viper enough? Should I use a relay instead of directly connecting? Connections made: Viper 4806v and DBALL2 are using D2D. Viper Main Harness: H1) Red - 12v + source (heavy duty fuse panel I added awhile ago that goes straight to battery with many places to add fused circuits for various things) H2) black - vehicle ground Viper 24-pin harness: 12) Violet/white - vehicle OBDII plug green wire pin 9 (wanted to use actual tach instead of virtual) Viper Remote Start Harness: 1) RED / black -> 12v + source (heavy duty fuse panel I added awhile ago that goes straight to battery with many places to add fused circuits for various things) 3) pink/white -> vehicle 2nd ignition pink wire ignition plug pin 1 4) red -> 12v + source (heavy duty fuse panel I added awhile ago that goes straight to battery with many places to add fused circuits for various things) 5) Violet -> vehicle 1st starter blue wire ignition switch pin 7 (also goes to separate relay for 2nd vehicle starter wire pin 3) 6) orange -> vehicle accessory white wire ignition switch pin 2 7) RED / white -> 12v + source (heavy duty fuse panel I added awhile ago that goes straight to battery with many places to add fused circuits for various things) 8) pink -> vehicle 1st ignition black wire ignition plug pin 6 DBALL2 14 Pin harness: 3) CAN High tan/black -> vehicle blue wire OBDII plug pin 6 4) CAN Low Tan -> vehicle white wire OBDII plug pin 14 10) auto light ORANGE / red -> vehicle green wire body ECU (30 pin plug) pin 28 (cut wire) 11) auto light yellow/red -> vehicle green wire body ECU (30 pin plug) pin 28 (cut wire) DBALL2 12 pin harness: 10) SIL data yellow/black -> vehicle gray wire OBDII plug pin 7 11) RDA ORANGE / black -> vehicle blue wire body ECU (30 pin plug) pin 16 I have a fair amount of electrical experience and I always test the wires prior to connecting, but what I don't have a ton of experience with is the terminology that is used in the install guides. If someone could please lend a hand and explain the connections needed I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks everyone!

You basically have to get behind where the switch is located, or the wire in the kick panel, and meter the wires going into it. It should either read: 12volts then when you push it and drops to 0v and stays there. This is called a (-) latching defroster. 12volts then when you push it drops to 0v then jumps back to 12volts. This is called a (-) pulsed defroster. 0volts then when you press it jumps to 12volts. This is a + latched defroster and requires a relay to switch polarity and increase your amperes. I've done several Toyotas with Viper units. I believe the wire was (-) pulse, BUT test before connecting.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Thank you smokeman1, that is fantastic and exactly what I was looking for! I will most definitely be testing prior to connecting, thanks! You did mention doing several vipers in Toyota's, i am wondering if you would have any insight into the horn/light issue I am having also?

I'm assuming from your narrative that this the DBALL is connected in D2D mode. I very rarely use D2D on my installs. I prefer the W2W method. The few D2D installs I have done, some of the functions, (TACH, Brake) sometimes don't work even though it is a listed function. I would imagine the install guide is covering a number of vehicles. Some things will work on some cars, and other things might not work. When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Yes that is correct, connected through D2D for the most part. I did connect to the actual tach wire instead of the virtual tach, but otherwise everything is D2D that can be. The DBALL2 shows that it does parking light control for my 2015 Camry. I am thinking maybe I got the the connections backwards? The install guide shows to cut the auto headlight wire on pin 20 of the headlight switch plug and then connect pin 10 & 11 from the 14 pin plug on the DBALL2 to each end. Could having those two connections backwards cause this issue? I cannot think of anything else that I am missing. On a separate note, what wire from the viper does the parking light control? I don't see anything on the install guide called that, would that be the status output (pin 5 of 24 pin plug on the viper)? I am thinking if I cannot get it working through D2D, then I will just make that connection separately like I did for the tach. Thanks! I am planning on finishing everything off next weekend, my final exams will be done by then. I am just trying to gather all the information needed this week so I can hit the ground running come Saturday.

That connection is for the autolight shut off. Shuts off the auto lights after remote start shutdown. Even though items are listed for the DBALL in a D2D mode, they may very well not work through D2D. The parking light output wire is the H/5, White wire. Take note of the polarity you will use and set the fuse accordingly. It is under the little door on top of the 4806.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Thanks again smokeman1, I will be digging into this on Saturday morning. I think I should be able to finish it off with the information you provided, so I thank you for that. I will post back after I have a chance to work on it and confirm if I have it working... and I know lots of new members say that and are then never to be heard from again, but I actually will

I can confirm that the rear defrost and the parking lights are working correctly now, thank you again smokeman1! When I tested the rear defrost it behaved differently than you had described. It was 0v when off, then jumped to 12v when turned on, and stayed there. But it wasn't positive, it was ground. So I just used the 200mA output on the remote start to trigger a relay and then the relay grounds the rear defrost. Is that the correct thing to do? It seems to work. The LED on the dash does not turn on when the rear defroster is activated from the remote start (when the button on the dash is pressed the LED turns on showing it is on), but when I measure with my DMM it shows 12v like it would normally.