2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, Remote Start Alarm?

Oknso I did the reset got the solid green and then off. Turned the key on step#1 and the light flashes red.

Couple more things to note. The fitech das ll does not light up. It is pluged into the shock sensor port on the alarm brain. The doors being open while armed does not trigger the alarm. Still no parking light flash.

Well, lets just go at it one thing at a time. The Parking Lights are very basic. The CM900-as needs +12V and Chassis Ground. It would appear that you have that if the CM900-as can get the trucks locks to work. That also verifies that the antenna is plugged in and the remotes are programmed to the unit. All that is needed for the Parking Lights is the one connection, CN3 Pin 1 Green/White to the trucks BCM X1 pin 22 LtGreen/Gray wire. I'm assuming that you have been using a Digital Multi Meter to test and verify these wires before making the connection. Anyway, the CM900-as will flash the Parking Lights once with a Lock and twice with an Unlock. That should make it pretty easy to test. The DAS II sensor is way down on the list of things to get working. For the CM900-as alarm functions, the Door Pin signals are pulled off the trucks CAN Bus by the ADS AL-CA and sent to the CM900-as via the D2D harness. If the ADS AL-CA isn't programmed / functioning, those signals won't be generated. Same for the Passlock2 bypass function. On the ADS AL-CA bypass module programming, a flashing Red light means Missing/wrong information from firmware or vehicle. My guess there would be the three connections at the OBD2 connector. It's possible that the CAN High and CAN Low are reversed or a bad wire connection. If you didn't solder these connections, then you should double, triple, quadruple check them.Soldering is fun!

Ok sounds good. Since im loosing light I'll call it a day. At least I got the door locks working. I will swing by homedepot and pickup a soldering iron tomorrow. Im using line taps now. Hope its just a bad connection which makes sense as the remote start worked once.

I solder every connection. With a truck and its' stiff suspension soldering makes even more sense. While you're at the store, get some Scotch Super 33+ Electrical tape. It will do a better job insulating you connections and last longer than other brands. Being as your R/S system doesn't draw that much current, the two Red +12V power wires could be combined into before the fuses and a single power line run to a suitable source. A single 20 Amp fuse should handle everything. The Chassis Ground connection should be via a soldered on terminal ring going to solid rust and paint free metal frame. Think you mentioned getting a false GWR signal from the R/S at one point so making sure the Chassis Ground connection is solid might be a good idea. This Chassis Ground supplies the (-) output for things light door locks and Parking Lights. One possible connection point shown below : Soldering is fun!

10-4 just got in from work. I'll verify the wiring and solder the all the joints. Minus the ground which has ring terminals. Give me a few and I'll get back to you.

Gotta head back out and run a call. Ill update when i get back and am done

Ok all wiring is correct and soldered. Parking lights work lock and unlock. No remote start or alarm when doors opened. Idatalink still flashes red when key is set to on position.

Did you do the full ADS AL-CA programming procedure again from Factory Reset and did you get the correct results at every step? Did you change the CM900-as programming to Tach or Assumed? You won't be able to do a Tach Learn until the ADS AL-CA is programmed.Soldering is fun!

No. The moment i turn the key on the led on the ads alca goes flashing red. Might be because the black ground and constant 12v on the module are connected in data mode? The ads diagram shows them not to be needed in data mode. I could disconnect them if that would change anything.