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Add Factory Bose sub to non-Bose system


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iimm_Matt 
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Posted: June 29, 2003 at 10:04 AM / IP Logged  
I have a 2002 Sierra Denali. For some reason, GMC didn't put the Bose in the '02s. Anyway, I have found someone that is selling the factory Bose sub assembly (sub, box, and amp) and I want to install it in my truck. My question is what am I going to need to hook it up? What kind of signal is the amp wanting to see? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Matt H
esmith69 
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Posted: June 29, 2003 at 11:31 AM / IP Logged  

What vehicle was this bose assembly taken from?  Cuz with some GM cars with bose systems, the fade and volume information is all sent from the head unit to the bose amplifier via data signals and can only work with a class II radio.

Ethan
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iimm_Matt 
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Posted: June 29, 2003 at 12:30 PM / IP Logged  
It's from a 2001 Yukon Denali... I thought they didn't go to the Class II stuff till '03?
iimm_Matt 
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Posted: June 29, 2003 at 12:31 PM / IP Logged  
Also I do use the factory head.... it looks the same, it just doesn't say Bose...
schism 
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Posted: June 29, 2003 at 3:00 PM / IP Logged  
i'm wanting to do the same thing with my 95 Camaro. it was originally equipped with the Bose system but has since been replaced with a regular aftermarket head unit and front and rear speakers. the factory Bose sub is still installed in the rear of the car, just not hooked up. there has to be a way to hook up that sub ...
esmith69 
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Posted: June 29, 2003 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  

it's weird cuz I think it was 03 but for some reason I thought I remembered some of the trucks/SUVs had it in 02 as well.

As long as the bose amplifier is still present in the vehicle, all you have to do is hook it back up (all wiring except for speaker output to main speakers) and it should power the subwoofer correctly.  You may need to get an adapter to adjust the signal output but since you're only going to be powering the subwoofer with the bose amp it will probably be okay with a direct hookup.

Ethan
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iimm_Matt 
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Posted: July 01, 2003 at 10:24 AM / IP Logged  
OK, so far I've gotten one "not possible" and one yes.... does anyone know for sure? Hasn't anyone done this? If I can't get the bose amp to power the sub, couldn't I just hook up another aftermarket amp to drive that sub in same enclosure? I really want some bass without giving up any room....
bigg 
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Posted: July 02, 2003 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  

I'm not familiar with the setup, but i am very familiar with the old nissan bose setups, so use the info with discretion. On those systems, all you would have needed was to figure out which leads are the power, ground, turn-on and signal. Then just feed the power appropriatly (the nissan ones needed a relay for turn on because they used that to actually power the amp), and feed the signal. PIE makes their pdc-loc or something like that, which will take any input and convert it into virtually any output, or you might be able to feed directly in.

Personally, I'd go with an aftermarket amp.  All you should have to do is meter the sub directly and figure out the ohms/resistance. Then you should be able to find an aftermarket amp that can handle the load, and rewire the enclosure and bypass the bose amp. Keep in mind the one sub will require bridging the amp and the amp should be able to support the load while bridged. ONE MORE THING:  A reasonable aftermarket amp should give you a crossover, and gain adjustment, so you can fine tune the system, while the bose amp does not. You will also be able to drive a bit more power (so long as the end user is careful) and have a more familiar setup to work with.

esmith69 
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Posted: July 02, 2003 at 8:53 PM / IP Logged  

I dunno what I was smoking when I wrote my previous reply cuz I can't believe I didn't think of this beforeAdd Factory Bose sub to non-Bose system - Last Post -- posted image.....all you have to do is get one of these Vendetta 2.5 adapters, and it will let you hook up any type of stereo component to a bose amplifier.  All it does really is change the high-level speaker outputs from the head unit, into a low-level differential type signal compatible with bose amps.

And then it's really just a matter of using a multimeter to test the wires going into the bose amp, for the proper connections.  Now the only thing I am not 100% sure about is whether the bose sub amp uses 2 channels of signal input, or 4 channels.  My guess would be two, but if it does end up needing four, then just use the Vendetta 4.5 instead.

Oh and just make sure when you use the adapter, that you tap in to the head unit's speaker wires rather than disconnecting and crimping/soldering onto the ends.  This way, you'll be sure to not lose the sound going to all of your speakers.

Ethan
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ezridr 
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Posted: July 02, 2003 at 10:27 PM / IP Logged  
I agree with Bigg if you insist on using the Bose enclosure, because if it did not come with BOSE in the vehicle it is NOT wired for Bose, the factory bose amps on the older chevrolet SUVs also incorporates the On Star turn on and mute wires as well as a common ground input, also most of the Bose speakers run at lower impedences, I can't tell you how many customers have hooked up a seperate amp to a bose sub only to blow the sub or short out the amps out put terminals, ultimately the best thing to do would to be to use a high to low level rca convertor buy a seperate amp and a new aftermarket sub to go into the enclosure
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder"

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