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Alpine SEC-150s programming problems


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lavamadness 
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Posted: July 09, 2003 at 11:30 AM / IP Logged  

I'm trying to install my new Alpine alarm.  So far I have the following connected the ground, constant power, ignition to a true ignition source, the siren,  the led, valet switch, and the door pin input.

I wanted to test it as I went, so I was trying to test that opening the door would set the alarm off.  Nothing.  So I was assuming that by default, all the sensors are off and you have to program the alarm to which ones you want turned on.   (Is this correct?)

So I tried to get it into programming mode and it didn't work.   It says to turn the key on to do it, but there's nothing I've hooked up that says the key is in the on position. (The true ignition is only on while cranking.. so that isn't it.)    I tried putting a constant 12v to the ignition wire just in case, and still nothing.

The alarm seems to arm and disarm fine.  And the valet switch seems to work.

What am I missing?

lavamadness 
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Posted: July 09, 2003 at 2:23 PM / IP Logged  
If I hook up the ignition wire to a "true" ignition source, how does the alarm know if I have the key turned on or not?
cpgoose 
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Posted: July 09, 2003 at 2:33 PM / IP Logged  
I'm not really sure this will answer your question, but the ignition wire shows 12v+ when you start the car (crank it), and when the key is in the ON position (when the car is running). So, if you turn your key to the on position, your ignition wire should show 12v+, even if the car isn't running. Ok, I didn't explain that very well.
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cpgoose 
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Posted: July 09, 2003 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged  
In my experience (when I tried to just hook up the minimum wires in order to test the alarm), it hasn't worked. My suggestion is to hook up everything, and then test it.
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lavamadness 
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Posted: July 09, 2003 at 2:47 PM / IP Logged  

Most of the other stuff I'm not going to hook up right away anyway.  So I still need to go in and turn it off right?  So if the wire is supposed to have 12v when the key is on, then how is it different from a N.C. starter interrupt?

The install guide says: "The ignition lead is pre-wired to the starter interrupt relay.  From the starter interrupt relay, connect the yellow wire to a 12 volt switched ignition source.  When selecting the normally open starter interrupt, find a "true" ignition source which shows 12 volts while cranking the engine."

I just took that to mean that it shows 12v ONLY when cranking.  

Can you explain the different between wire for a N.O. starter interrupt and wire for a N.C. starter interrupt?   And in either case, if I just applied 12v to the ignition wire manually, wouldn't that have made the alarm think the key was on?

ld2638 
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Posted: July 09, 2003 at 9:55 PM / IP Logged  
The SEC150R is difficult to program if you haven't done it before. And since you're having problems figuring out the wiring directions, I'd say the confusion and frustration is only going to get worse. Goose is right about the ignition. It tests as follows. 12v when the key is turned to the run position, it maintains 12v when turned to the start or cranking position, and stays at 12v when it returns to the run position.
Alpine is making the "true ignition" statement because it is critical for the N.O. starter kill to function properly. The wire you were testing for that shows 12v only when cranking is the starter wire.
The difference between a N.O. and N.C. starter kill is exactly what it stands for. Normally Open starter kill means that the starter wire is normally open, broken, disconnected, whatever you want to call it. It only connects when you attempt to start the vehicle with the alarm DISARMED. The Normally Closed starter kill leaves the starter wire closed, or connected until the vehicle is attempted to be started while the vehicle is ARMED. Then it will break or open the starter wire not allowing the car to start. In either case the alarm should be supplied with "true ignition" in order for the starter kill to work properly.
Hopefully this helps with some of your questions.
lavamadness 
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Posted: July 10, 2003 at 10:39 AM / IP Logged  

Now it makes sense.    To have the wire connected to a "true ignition" in both cases.   I was confused by the instructions, it sounded as if it they were handling it in two different ways.

But I hooked it up to the proper wire last night and everything worked as it should so far.

Thanks for the help! :)


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