Rollup when sector violated... Success!

wotteg wrote: Does this installation you have described, override any "crush-prevention" auto-reversing mechanisms in the vehicle? If so, you may want ot put a vinyl sticker next to each window. "*WARNING: Vehicle is equipped with poximity activated automatic closing windows. Owner is not responsible for bodily harm.*" There are too many lawyers these days.

Screw em - When you walk up to your car and there they are stuck in your windows like a trapped animal - make sure you have a bat with you! My philosphy - dead men don't tell tales - and neither can they hire lawyers! Then again - I would hate to see a child (especially mine) get their hand or arm stuck!

Hey, Ok, I'm gonna try to get this to work with the 1 relay, and a shock sensor. No one posted a diagram for the "1-relay" method, so I took a shot just to make sure I got it right. The diagram is below. Here's a couple of questions that I came up with....any answers would be really helpful....thanks! 1. Why are you using pin 87a instead of 87? I'm still learning about relays, that's why I'm asking. I thought 87 had to get the "ground when armed" signal from the alarm to send it to the window module....not 87a. 2. I see that you used a 1K uf capacitor, and a 10K fixed resistor. I've never used either of those before, so I was curious if those will be the specs on the package when I go to Radio Shack to buy them...or is there anything else I need to know? In the very first diagram, I was a little confused on how to install them in the wire. Do they just go inline? Like installing a diode? (I'm also assuming you used the diode?) 3. I would like this to work with both the warnaway and the instant trigger from the shock sensor. Can I just tap both the green AND blue wires from the sensor? 4. Do you still have full functionality of the 530t after doing this? Meaning, 1-touch up and down, the windows roll up on arming, or you can still arm with the windows down? THANKS! EDIT: I couldn't upload the picture, so I put it on this website.....URL=http://www.angelfire.com/nj4/cpgoose/530t.html]Click Here[/URL]Q: What's the best nation in the world?

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Well, that link didn't work either....here's the link again: http://www.angelfire.com/nj4/cpgoose/530t.htmlQ: What's the best nation in the world?

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What's up? Sorry if this becomes a double-post...but I posted, and it was there...and now it's not...so I'm trying again. I'm attempting to accomplish the window rollup using my shock sensor instead of a motion sensor. The diagram below is my attempt at using 1 relay (as previously suggested), and the shock sensor. Here are a couple questions, though, that I came across when making this diagram...any help would be great: 1. Why do you use 87a instead of 87? I'm still learning how to use relays for certain applications, and I thought you had to use 87 in this case. In fact, I don't really know why you would use 87a for anything. Help a relay noobie:-) 2. I see in your diagram that you used the capacitor and the resistor. I've never used these before (yet), I've only used diodes. Do they just install inline with the wire, the same as a diode? And when I go to Radio Shack to buy them, will the package just have the same specs for the resistor and capacitor that's in the very first diagram? 3. I'm attempting to do this with the shock sensor when it does a warnaway, as well as full alarm. Should I use both the blue and green wires off the shock sensor? 4. Since you got this to work, does the 530t act exactly the same as it used to? In other words, does it still close the windows when you arm, unless you hit button on the remote first to hold them? Do you still have 1-touch open and close? Here's my diagram....(I couldn't get the image upload to work, or the hyperlink either....so here's the address): http://www.angelfire.com/nj4/cpgoose/530t.html Q: What's the best nation in the world?

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1. hey xetmes, thanks for answering all of my long questions. I'll send utc a private message to look at this post, maybe he'll answer why he used 87a instead of 87. 2. thanks for the descriptions. I think I'll be able to handle the resistor, but still a little curious about the capacitor. Just want to make sure I don't get a computer capacitor, or a car audio one ;-) 3. I guess I can just tap both wires from the shock sensor, and bring them both to the same terminal on the relay? When I diode isolate, should the stripe face the shock sensor? 4. When you said "not for me", is this because you've had bad results....or because you haven't hooked this up? I was thinking about the latching relay part, but my alarm doesn't really go off that often. I could install a switch or something to cut power to the relay. This way, if I'm going to park somewhere for a long period of time (or even just park with the windows shut), I can disable this whole feature. If I park with the windows open, then I'll enable it. sweeeeet. Thanks (sorry for extending the questions) :) Q: What's the best nation in the world?

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Sorry about not posting the 1-relay diagram, I’ve been away for a while. In regards to my setup, I have an Alpine SEC-8063 alarm with the integrated radar sensor. This sensor plugs right into the alarm brain with its own harness. The sensor has 2 zones, one outer (that projects outside the vehicle) and one inner (inside the vehicle). The brain has its own output wire that goes to ground when the outer sector is violated. The brain also has an output wire that goes to ground when the alarm is armed (this wire stays grounded until disarmed). This wire is normally hooked directly to the (ground when armed) wire of my DEI 530T window module. It uses this wire to detect when the alarm is armed and as a result rolls the windows up (which it does by default). With the 530T I also have the option of arming the alarm without rolling the windows up (by holding the AUX and then arming). In this case I wanted the 530T to roll the windows up when the outer sector is violated. The whole trick to my setup is this. I found out (by trial and error) that if I break the ground when armed connection (between the 8063 and 530T) for a second, and then reconnect it, the 530T thinks that I have disarmed the alarm and then rearmed it (this does not trigger the alarm) and as a result rolls the windows up. Therefore I needed a setup that would momentarily break the ground when armed connection (only for a moment) when the outer sector was violated. The 1-relay setup has worked perfectly for me thus far. See diagram below. The ground when armed connection between the 8063 and 530T passes through the relay via pins 30 and 87a (this way the connection is normally uninterrupted). The coil connections are fused +12V on pin 85 and the ground when outer sector violated on pin 86. Pin 87 is left open. With this setup when the outer radar sector is violated the coil will energize and the ground when armed connection is broken/interrupted. I needed the interruption to be momentary not constant, so I added the capacitor and resistor circuit. The capacitor allows the coil of the relay to be energized until the capacitor stores a charge, thus de-energizing the coil. The resistor bleeds off the charge of the capacitor when the ground (when outer sector violated) is removed from the other side of the coil. You can increase the ‘interruption time’ by simply changing the value of the capacitor (using a 1Kuf capacitor and a 10K ohm resistor the interval is about 0.5 seconds which works great). These components are readily available at the local Radio Shack. I hope this helps everyone’s understanding and I hope that everyone who attempts this can get it working. I think it’s the coolest things yet that I’ve done with my alarm.

Awesome, thanks for replying....3 quick questions for you: 1. Did you still use a diode across pins 85 and 86? If so, did you just install the diode across the wires on the relay's wire harness? 2. I'm going to purchase the capacitor and the resistor, but I don't understand how they "install". I've never used them before, I've only used diodes. I guess what I don't understand is how you've installed two items on the one wire? Did you just cut the wire in half, and install them both inline? Stupid question, sorry. 3. Have you seen any adverse effects after having done this? Just curious if there were any drawbacks. Thanks again...I can't wait to try this. I'm going to try with the shock sensor, so I guess I can tie into both the green and blue wires of the sensor.Q: What's the best nation in the world?

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Just to clarify what the capacitors look like, I found three that were 1k uf (I think). They are Cat# 272-1047, Cat # 272-1032, and Cat # 272-1019 on this page from RadioShack.. Which type did you use? Q: What's the best nation in the world?

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