Remote windows

1. You will need to buy an additional window control module for you to be able to remote control the windows

2.

• LF WINDOW UP/DN - wht/blk / red      
• RF WINDOW UP/DN - wht/yel /tan/lt.blu   
• LR WINDOW UP/DN - gry/org / yel/lt.blu
• RR WINDOW UP/DN - yel/blk / RED / blk

3. No need to connect relays with the module, they are all within the casing of the module.

There is not EXT other than the trunk release for this system. If you wanted to remote access the open & closing of the windows by pressing the button on your remote you will only have the choice of one of the three ( Trunk release, window up or window down ). If you are not using the trunk relase for a trunk release you can hook up the system like this:

• Take the RED / WHITE wire from the Ultra Start and hook it up to the trigger on the window down module (  the wire will depend on the window control module that you purchase ) but most of the time it's a ORANGE activation wire. Now everytime you press the second button on your remote control your windows will roll down. ( make sure that the output on this will be sufficient time to open the windows completely otherwise you will need to press the button 2 times to open the windows all the way)  
• NOW what you can do for the window roll up is to take the ORANGE wire on the Ultra Start and use it as the trigger wire so that when you arm the vehicle, the windows will roll up automatically if they are down. If they are up already, the window module will know this and will not try to keep rolling them up and burn out the motor.

.......take the ORANGE wire on the Ultra Start and use it as the trigger wire so that when you arm the vehicle, the windows will roll up automatically if they are down. If they are up already, the window module will know this and will not try to keep rolling them up and burn out the motor.

What type of modules are you using ? Most ( in not all ) of the ones that we have used or have seen use a (-) trigger to activate the modules. If your modules require a (+) trigger then you will need a relay to convert the signal ( BUT MAKE SURE OF THIS ) otherwise if you try to activate a (-) trigger with a (+) pulse .... poof. Wire the relay like this to convert the signal from negative to positive:

NEGATIVE INPUT ----> POSITIVE OUTPUT

• 87 & 86 - 12 volts +
• 30 - 12 volts OUTPUT
• 85 - Ground INPUT
• 87a - NOT USED

Well see that's what I was thinking that the RED / white wire from the brain was a negative trigger so the orange wire would work because it was negative also.  When I would arm the alarm the relays inside the module would not even click or react so it was like they were getting nothing from my orange wire.  Maybe my orange wire is just bad from the brain because I was getting nothing. 

Oh well it's no big deal cause I figured out a way to make it work I was just curious if I could get a longer pulse somewhere so they would go up more than half way at once.  On the way down I can hold the button down because I am using the trunk release, but on the way up I can't hold down the arm button or my panic is activated.

Have you tested the ORANGE wire for a (-) current ? If there is no (-) current then you don't even have starter disable on the vehicle ( if you installed it ). You might want to look into this.