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03 Ram Check engine light


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chpsk8 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2003
Posted: August 24, 2003 at 7:21 PM / IP Logged  

Ok. My installer is trying to install a Compustar remote starter in my 2003 Ram Quad Cab no security black key, 4.7 liter gas, quad cab. The problem we are having is when we use the remote to start the truck the check engine light stays on. If I just use the key, no light. Once we use the remote, the light comes on. The problem is that the light won't go out until you unhook the battery to clear the trouble codes. The truck starts and runs, and I can take control with the key. But that light won't go out. He said that there are 4 wires that need to be energized, and he had put power to all of them. But he also mentioned that my truck had  something like 7 wires that could be hooked up and he had never seen that before. My truck is a 2003 that was made in December of 02.

The other question is I noticed that they had charged me for a security bypass, my truck doesn't have a security system from the factory or aftermarket. Any other reason why they would do this, or is it a potential mistake. I don't' need to be flinging around an extra $30 if I don't have to.

Third. We had an 03 Accord done also and had to have a key put under the dash. Tech support at DEI and at Compustar said it wasn't needed, but he couldn't do it with the wires he had in his hand. My Accord was made in Japan, could this make a difference. It was the first Accord in MN for 03. Personally I think that may be half the problem. \

All in all, not a very productive weekend.

I could really use a hand with this one asap. I'll be going back tomorrow and we'lll be digging into this one again.

thanksd

D

jrilla 
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Joined: November 19, 2002
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: August 24, 2003 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged  
1st, Did you have an anti-grind relay installed to prevent grinding of the starter after accidentally turning the key too far once the car has been started remotely? If so, there is a possibility that that is the cause of the check engine light.
2nd, If you dont have an anti-theft device on that truck you should be be super pissed that they charged you for doing nothing. Could be just an over-sight, but I doubt it, they were trying to get away with that one.
3rd, I am not sure why the installer had to use a key, but he shouldn't have had to. Maybe he didnt have the right bypass module on hand.
J Rilla
Owner/Installer
chpsk8 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2003
Posted: August 24, 2003 at 8:21 PM / IP Logged  

Here's what's on the reciept...

Micro Doorlock relay

Factory Alarm Disarm.

3rd accesory realy

4th accesory relay

All were $30 each.

Not sure if the antigrind relay was installe. Is there an easy way to chech? I suppose just hitting the key to see if it grinds would be one way, but that sounds pretty crude and risky. I'll ask him in when I bring the truck in.

Could the factory disarm be used for antigrind? Or could they have used it for a 1 or 2 accesory? I'm pretty raw on this stuff.

As for the Honda, two tech supports couldn't help them. My vin number indicates that the car was the 1366 03 built in Japan. Thats probably within the first month of production . 55 card per hour, 5 day workweek. So this one might be different from the USA built cars. Not sure how I can check on that. I think it's BS that I have to buy a key to shove under the dash. That could cost me close to $100. OVerall this became a pretty expensive adventure.

Thanks for the advice. Any other iseas are welcome! LOL

NowYaKnow 
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Joined: December 18, 2002
Posted: August 24, 2003 at 8:58 PM / IP Logged  
Definately sounds like he is missing one of the required ignition wires on the ram. Basically that's what happens on dodges when you miss the second ignition wires and remote start it..
As for not needing a key for the accord, I assume they are talking about using a 555H bypass (no key needed) or a 555U bypass (needs a key). I've done accords before and I would suggest the 555U. The 555H is junk IMO and even if the wire colors they tell you to find happen to be there they seem to not be as reliable as a 555U. Was the factory alarm disarm $30 charge for the accord? If so you need to go into the door for this disarm wire (white wire) which does take more time so I could see some shops charging extra for that..
chpsk8 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2003
Posted: August 24, 2003 at 9:17 PM / IP Logged  

I got charged for a factory alarm disarm for both the Ram and the Accord. Are you saying that having the key (555U) is a better thing even though I need to buy a key and get it programmed? (possible cost pushing $100 depending on the dealer).

Thanks for the tip on the second ignition wire. He says he energized four wires. Two ignition, two acc. I haven't seen the wiring so I don't know. He seem's like an ok installer. He said he's doen dozens of Rams and this one was different because the wiring harness had seven wires, not 4.

jrilla 
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Joined: November 19, 2002
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: August 25, 2003 at 8:13 AM / IP Logged  
Factory Disarm is referring to the factory alarm, not the factory ignition immobilizer that you dont have. Does your truck have a factory alarm?
I would hook up all of those seven wires, but I would certainly not pay $30 a piece to do so. Telays cost anywhere from .50 cents to $3 when buying them in bulk, so they are probably charging you about $12 to $15 for the relays and $15 to install it. Thats absurd! sounds like Best Buy to me.
I dont know anything about DEI bypass modules, but I know the keyless modules I use are far superior than the keyed modules. The only thing I can figure as to why anyone would say the key required bypass modules are better than the keyless ones, would either be that the keyless ones dont always work, or the installer is doing something wrong.
J Rilla
Owner/Installer
chpsk8 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2003
Posted: August 25, 2003 at 4:32 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, he figured out the check engine light. The wiring diagram shows that either the red or RED / white needs to be energized for the second ignition. At  first he had just the red hooked up, then he hooked up both and that cured the light.

They also gave me a credit for that $30 Factory alarm bypass.

I found out today that the Honda Key will cost me over $130 to get programmed. That really sucks. He tried both the H and the U. They were talking about trying an "I" module which is supposed to be new and used primaraly for Lexus and Toyota. It is supposed to learn the codes and not require the key. The manager said that the documents for that module don't list Hondas, but the tech really wants to try it. I didn't get the whole name of the thing, sorry.

I need a bettter way than just using the key. Thats a pricy thing to use. My car was a J code with a really low serial number, but I think there should be some way to bypass that system.

NowYaKnow 
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Joined: December 18, 2002
Posted: August 25, 2003 at 9:49 PM / IP Logged  
Good to hear your finally making a little headroom on this. @ $130 for a key I would definately find some type of keyless module or go with the 555H.
"The only thing I can figure as to why anyone would say the key required bypass modules are better than the keyless ones, would either be that the keyless ones dont always work, or the installer is doing something wrong."
Little bit of both I guess ;) Basically using the 555H for me the correct wire colors DEI tells you to tap into just aren't there most of the time even though they say the module is for that car. Also on the ones we did get going there has been an intermittant starting problem here and there. There was a thread about this same issue on the DEI forum a while back from what I remember and some others posted similar results. What brand modules are you guys using for an install like this? Also I'm usually doing dealership work so I don't even waste my time playing with the 555H and getting frustrated just tell the guys I need a key and they give me one. Those keys are nice because they don't even have to go out to the car to program them so I don't have to sit and wait around for a key to program like a ford..But from a customer standpoint @ $130 I would definately try an alternative..Good luck
chpsk8 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2003
Posted: August 26, 2003 at 3:10 PM / IP Logged  
We tried an H and a U module. Both from DEI. The $140 is because they do have to go into the car to code the key. All the keys have to be present and reprogrammed at the same time that the new one is made. It's $30 for a key, $100 to program it. Anyone else do a 2003 Accord with any kind of remote starter? I'm getting a little frustrated with this install. I did a search on the 12V forum for 03 accords and only came back with a coulle hits. Looks like I have another "unique challenge". LOL

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