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DEI 530T and Autoloc WC1000 compatible?


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phamine 
Copper - Posts: 88
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Joined: March 19, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: September 29, 2003 at 6:58 AM / IP Logged  

Right now I have an DEI530T controlling the master switch for the drivers window and the passenger window. I also have an Autoloc WC1000 controlling the passenger's window from the passenger switch.

DEI 530T and Autoloc WC1000 compatible? -- posted image.

I wired all the wires from the DEI 530t at the driverside switch. I wired the Autoloc WC1000 at the passenger switch from wire codes blu/wht and blu/red.

Alll the windows work by one touch.

Here's the problem:

•Window roll up with ground when armed does not work with a diode(band side facing module). But it does work without a diode but only when I turn the ignition switch off.

•Aux works - but it works strangely. Pressing the third output vents the drivers window but opens the passenger window. From this point - holding down the output, the drivers window opens and the passenger widow ceases from completely opening.

My guess is that it's the second module screwing things up. What did I do wrong?

cpgoose 
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Posted: September 29, 2003 at 8:56 AM / IP Logged  
If I'm reading this correctly, you have a 2-door car? Your 530t can control both the driver's door, and the passenger door...allowing 1-touch at all switches.
In this case, it doesn't sound like you even need the wc1000. Am I reading this right, or do you have more windows?
For your first problem (someone correct me if I'm wrong) but I think the band on the diode should face the alarm.
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phamine 
Copper - Posts: 88
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Joined: March 19, 2003
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Posted: September 29, 2003 at 9:29 AM / IP Logged  

cpgoose wrote:
If I'm reading this correctly, you have a 2-door car? Your 530t can control both the driver's door, and the passenger door...allowing 1-touch at all switches.

Yes -it's a 2 door car. The 530t is controlling both the drivers and passenger's window at the drivers door switch - meaning there is a switch for the drivers window and the passenger window at the drivers door.

cpgoose wrote:
In this case, it doesn't sound like you even need the wc1000. Am I reading this right, or do you have more windows?

I do need the WC1000 since the 530T only controls the 2 switches on the drivers door. THe WC1000 controls the passenger side window switch.

cpgoose wrote:
For your first problem (someone correct me if I'm wrong) but I think the band on the diode should face the alarm.

I haven't tried reversing the band. The alarm manual shows the band facing the module.

Should I diode the starter kill relay if the relay itself already has a diode?

phamine 
Copper - Posts: 88
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Joined: March 19, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: September 29, 2003 at 5:05 PM / IP Logged  

I put the diode faced towards the alarm - it didn't work - the windows would roll up once I turned off the ignition

So my diode isnt working? Its a 1N4004 diode.

cpgoose 
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Posted: September 30, 2003 at 8:16 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, it's a bit clearer now...thanks for responding. (I still don't think you need the WC1000, let me explain why. It sounds like we have a similar setup. I have a 2-door car with 2 switches on the driver's door (for the driver's window and passenger's window), and then on the passenger's door there's a switch for their window.
What I did with my 530t was install the driver's wires in the driver's door (for that window). Then I dragged the 530t's passenger window wires into the passenger's door, and interfaced it between that switch and motor. That gives me 1-touch on all 3 switches (2 on the driver's door and 1 on the passenger's door). So I accomplished the same thing you did, but only with the 530t. See what I mean?
I also have a starter kill relay, and I used the same orange wire from that for the 530t's orange wire. Check out the first diagram on this post. That's how I have the diode on mine. (Just ignore the other 530t...assume there's only one).
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phamine 
Copper - Posts: 88
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Joined: March 19, 2003
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Posted: September 30, 2003 at 8:57 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for replying goose.

cpgoose wrote:
Ok, it's a bit clearer now...thanks for responding. (I still don't think you need the WC1000, let me explain why. It sounds like we have a similar setup. I have a 2-door car with 2 switches on the driver's door (for the driver's window and passenger's window), and then on the passenger's door there's a switch for their window.

What I did with my 530t was install the driver's wires in the driver's door (for that window). Then I dragged the 530t's passenger window wires into the passenger's door, and interfaced it between that switch and motor. That gives me 1-touch on all 3 switches (2 on the driver's door and 1 on the passenger's door). So I accomplished the same thing you did, but only with the 530t. See what I mean? [/qoute]

I didn't think about that. I've been reading posts on the subject and you just clarified that for me. I had already run and soldered the window module for the passenger side switch. If I can get away with leaving the module in place it would be easier.

[qoute]I also have a starter kill relay, and I used the same orange wire from that for the 530t's orange wire. Check out the first diagram on this post. That's how I have the diode on mine. (Just ignore the other 530t...assume there's only one).

Your diode for the faces the alarm. I had tried that with the window modules and the windows closed when you turned off the ignition.

My guess is that I have to run  the Autoloc window modules ground when armed wire to the orange alarm wire as well? But the DEI 530t is already controlling the Autoloc module. Do you see what I'm trying to say?

As for the remote roll down - it is also just connected to the dei530t. how does the passenger window roll all the way down. Is it a pulse that the dei530t send out. And if its a pulse, why does the autoloc module continue to roll down windows?

I'm going to try to connect the autolocs roll down when armed wire to the orange alram wire. I would have been much simplier if I had just used the dei530t using your wireing format.

jake 

cpgoose 
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Posted: September 30, 2003 at 9:43 AM / IP Logged  
CRAP! I just typed this really good response, and then got the "server unavailable" message, and lost the whole thing! Dammit. This one will be shorter :-)
I think your problems (with the windows closing when you shut off the car) are related to the diodes, and the fact that you're using 2 modules. What I would do is unplug the autoloc for the meantime, and get the 530t to work first. Once that works, then put in the Autoloc, and get that to work. Process of elimination is your friend :-)
Yes, you probably have to run the Autoloc's ground when armed wire to the alarm's orange wire too. You'll have to diode isolate it, too, though. Go back to that link I gave you. That was my post where i was asking how to install 2 530t modules with diodes. I wound up installing 3 diodes: 1 for the starter kill, 1 for the first 530t, and 1 for the second 530t. (As you'll see later in that post, I also used a diode, since I was now using that orange wire for 3 components). But the 3 diodes, all with the stripe facing the alarm, worked fine.
I'm not sure how your Autoloc works (with respect to rolling down the windows with the remote), but if it's able to do that, then it has some INPUT wire that would go to some OUTPUT wire from the alarm. I guess in this case, if you wanted to have the 530t and the Autoloc work off the same channel of the remote (say the AUX channel for example), then you'd probably want to use a relay. You'll have the OUTPUT of the alarm going to a relay, and then the OUTPUT of the relay going to the 530t and the Autoloc, allowing you to roll the windows down via the remote.
OR...and this is a BIG OR.....you can just forget everything I said in this whole post (especially the relay part) and just REMOVE THE AUTOLOC! You can do everything you're trying to accomplish with just the 530t. Remove the Autoloc and sell it on Ebay or something. You already have the wires running to the passenger door, so just remove the wires that you had going to the driver's door passenger switch, and connect them to the passenger's door....and you'll be ALL SET.
I really think this would be your best bet. You would only need 1 diode, no relays, and you only have to power 1 component. This is definitely the way I would go.
phew....ok, that was just as long.
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phamine 
Copper - Posts: 88
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Joined: March 19, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 04, 2003 at 7:11 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the advice - it really helped me out=].I took your advice and removed the autoloc module - it took a bit more time but at least everything is in working order=]

The placement of the diode you mentioned was correct. The problem was that I used a diode - but i did not isolate the diode from the starter kill(diode was connected to starter kill/orange ground when armed wire). So I basically made a Y-formation for the modules and starter kill.

I read that you wired your 530t to the sunroof? How did you wire it; at the switch?

I'm reading the manual and noticing that they point out to wire after the sunroof relays(for open and close) . I wired a 529T between the switch and the relay and the 529t is doing fine controlling the sunroof from the switch.

I tried to get the sunroof to open with the 3rd channel(same channel as the windows are on) but it hasn't worked - I haven't figured it out yet.

Also, I can't get the sunroof to ground when armed - the relays inside the module are working.

And what does activation inputs and output wires mean on the module.

phamine 
Copper - Posts: 88
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 19, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 06, 2003 at 7:40 PM / IP Logged  

Okay I figured it out. The 529t worked for a good number of tries but now the sunroof motor keeps running after it is fully closed or open. The thing is I connected the module after the sunroof relays since the module did not work when I spliced by the switch.

Here is the location of where I spliced the sunroof wires. DEI even mentions to connect the module after the relays.DEI 530T and Autoloc WC1000 compatible? -- posted image.

 I'm using channel 3 for both the 530t and the 529t. It worked - but now there is an intermittent sunroof grind. Where should I begin to look to fix it?

cpgoose 
Gold - Posts: 1,098
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Posted: October 07, 2003 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged  
Yea, I connected a 530t to my sunroof at the switch. I didn't want to go up into the headliner or anything, so I tried behind the switch first, and that worked. I bought a 530t instead of a 529t because I heard the 529t doesn't add 1-touch open and close to the switch...and that's what I wanted.
When you say that the motor keeps running after it's fully open or closed, do you mean automatically?....or when you're holding the switch? I just ask because I didn't think the 529t adds 1-touch.
Be very careful not to grind to much, you can kill your motor, or it might come off the track. When I "1-touch" close my sunroof, it works fine. When I 1-touch open it, there's a slight grind, but nothing too much, otherwise I wouldn't keep it in there.
If you want your sunroof to work off of the same channel as your windows, then you just have to attach the 529t's AUX input to the same place you put the 530t's AUX input. I would recommend a relay, though, as I used one when I did it. (Again,that's all documented in that other post). The same with the orange wire to make it roll up on arming. I would use a relay on the alarm's orange wire because now you'll be driving the starter kill, the 530t, AND the 529t off the alarm's one orange wire.
I hope this helps. Have I confused you enough? DEI 530T and Autoloc WC1000 compatible? -- posted image.
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