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Kicker XS50 High Current Amp Problem


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achang7 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: July 23, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 15, 2003 at 4:32 AM / IP Logged  
i have a kicker xs50 powering 2 solo baric L5 12" dvc 4ohm. the amp worked fine with the subs wired in parallel pushing the amp to run at 1 ohm, which its capable of. just recently i was testing out my friends fosgate hx2 12" dvc 4ohm parallel to 1 channel of my amp it was working ok for 2 days until it just started making some loud distortion sound, even at 0 volume. i know its not the ground but i realized on the side of the rca input that side of the amp gets really hot and regardless of what rca input i hook up the same distortion occurs also if i touch the amp the distortion gets worse it sort of sounds like a pulsating sub that fully extends then just kinds of pops. i did also realize when the gain is set to minimum the distortion kind of dissappears but once i turn up the gain, there it goes again. could anybody possibly help me out. I'm so stomped b/c i took the actual amp out of its casing and everything looks good, no signs of burn or smell everything looks fine.i know the amp still bump b/c the distortion sound is very loud thank in advance.
Sound World 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: September 24, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 15, 2003 at 8:41 PM / IP Logged  
When you put the HX2 in did you have the amp disconnected?  If so, did you have +12v going to it before the ground was hooked back up?  Or was it possible that the ground fell off or became disconnected but you still had +12v going to it?  I had the same problem with an older Kicker amp.  The same thing happened when you touch it.  Called up Kicker Techs (were an authorized dealer) and he knew exactly what the problem was.  It's caused by when the amp isn't grounded before you put power to it.  The amps came with stickers on the pwr terminals saying to make sure the amp is grounded before connecting +12V.  I think it was like that on those amps that year.  He said that some circuit gets damaged and explained a fairly simple fix. It had something  (I think) to do with the RCA input shield needing to be regrounded inside the amp.  I don't recommend trying what I just said, it was over a year ago and I could be wrong.  We didn't fix it, we just sent the amp in for service because it was under warranty, and that was the only one case that had that problem.  Our customer had a buddy of his install it and he got a flat and had to pull the stuff out, and then reinstalled it, randomly hooking up wires.  Anyways thats exactly what it sounds like to me.  If you can, call Kicker and see if they'll help, or if it's under warranty send it in.  Hope this helps, let me know how it turns out or if I can help in any other way.
achang7 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: July 23, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 16, 2003 at 4:14 AM / IP Logged  
hey thanks,
Now that i think about it, yes the ground wasn't solid enough, i noticed this because that was the first thing i checked. The ground was not making a full contact to a metal of the car because of the screw i used didn't keep it from slipping. I then added a bolt on my new ground, but my amp was still making the same distortion sound. So thats what happened, i know my positive was solid but my ground wasn't so the amp was receiving positive without ground. Damn this sucks, i no longer have warranty because i installed it myself. Do you remember or recall what it was that needed to be fixed or replaced? i tried calling kicker it was no help they just told me to send it in. Thanks sound world.
Sound World 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: September 24, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 16, 2003 at 1:33 PM / IP Logged  

I called Kicker back, and if that is the problem, you'll have to take the entire amp apart.  If your up to checking it out, you'll have to pull it apart and completely remove the circuit board.  On the bottom of the board there should be a 1amp slo-blo fuse, replace it with the same type and it should work like new.  They fuse it like that, because if the amp gets power and no ground it will send backfeed to the RCA preouts of your deck, causing problems.  Their is another fix also, but check the fuse first to fix the problem.  The other fix will by-pass the fusing and if it were to happen again it may mess up the deck pre-outs.  Be careful when taking apart the amp, and obviously, take it out of the car first.  Let me know about the results, or if you need any more help.  Hopefully it's just a simple fuse, and nothing else is wrong. Good Luck!!!

achang7 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: July 23, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 19, 2003 at 3:15 PM / IP Logged  
I took the whole amp apart a month ago, and its still been apart since then. My friend lent me his soundstream amp so i currently been using that as a replacement and haven't really came across looking at mines for a while. But thanks for the reply and also on my amp i don't notice any type of fuse on the amp at all. are you refering to the bottom side of the amp where there are just solder points? If yes there are only solder connections everywhere but 1 little thing that looks like a capacitor or something. Its pretty small rectangular shaped and solder to board. It looks kind of clear in a way and it has the letters TH on it. I don't really know what this means or what it really is but do think this is the fuse? If ya, would you happen to know where i could get one of these or perhaps go to radio shack and replace it with a equivalent one? If this isn't the fuse, on the other side of the amp where all the electronic parts are, i cant seem to find anything that looks like any sort of fuse. Hey thanks for your time in helping me solve this problem and really appreciate it. Thanks. Andrew.
achang7 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: July 23, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 19, 2003 at 3:27 PM / IP Logged  
oh ya another question is on the amp there a jumpers pins 10 pins total, 2 rows of 5 pins. Looks like this:
             P9
        GND .. CHAS
        L+   .. R-
        U5-6 .. U2-6
        +15V .. -15V
        +24V .. -24V
I don't know what this is for or even if there was a jumper there or not but there isn't one on there now or not that i could remember, but just curious about why this is on the amp.

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