Bad Speaker Box Design?

This thread has turned into something completely different from where it started, but as pointed out in an earlier thread, and as illistrated on THIS WEB PAGE, it is possible for one speaker to cancel itself in a car installation due to standing waves and reflections.  In the case of this original question, however, it is unlikely there is a polarity, phase or cancellation problem going on.

Cheers!

well guys, this discussion has been nothing but...completely irrelavant. So let me bring it back to where I began it at.

I had some time to play around with settings and positioning.

1. I verified the settings on the Fosgate crossover. It WAS set to Low Pass, but the frequency sweeper knob is a little bit confusing as this picture shows.

To me it looks like when the knob is cranked totally to the left and the crossover is set to Low Pass, you have a 50hz bottom end and an 80hz top end. So I set it at about 55hz which seems to cut most of the vocals. I've got the punch bass set pretty much where this picture shows it. This didn't totally clean up the muddiness.

2. I took off the grill and then the driver out. I took out over half of the stuff I had in there as someone suggested.

3. I placed a piece of particle board underneath the box to help provide better deflection, as seen in the picture below.

So now I gotta clean up the extra pieces of wood and cover them with carpet.

I think it was the combo of all three of these adjustments that made the difference. I think if I got a 4ohm sub that would definately increase the punch, but it definately sounds better. I am not positive this box is the best design, but not the worst either. It could possibly use some bracing on the bigger sides.

Thanks for all the info guys. Feel free to keep it coming. I realize this setup it isn't the pretiest or the best, but its going to serve my purposes fairly well.

Un-stuffing the enclosure probably helped a lot.

Vocals happen above 600Hz, so your crossover should have nothing to do with them unless it is not in Low Pass.

The "Crossover" 3-position switch determines what kind of function the electronic crossover will perform.  In the center, as shown in your drawing, it is in "Full" mode and the crossover does nothing.  To the left, it is in "High" and will cut out bass below the setting.  To the right (where you want it for a sub) is "Low" and it will cut out frequencies above the setting.  The control labeled "Crossover Frequency" sets the point where the electronic crossover begins cutting the frequencies.  It can range from 50Hz to 200Hz.

For your setup, I suggest the "Crossover" switch be pushed to the right (in "Low") and the frequency sweep should be set to around 80Hz (in the middle.)  The Punch control can be fiddled with an set to wherever sounds best.