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Pop noise after replacing stock system


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mstng00 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 19, 2004 at 2:31 PM / IP Logged  

I have a 2000 Mustang GT and replaced the head unit with a pioneer.  It sounds great, but when you turn it on I get a pop noise in the front speakers.  They say it is normal.  Can anything be done to resolve this? 

Thanks

DYohn 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: January 19, 2004 at 5:01 PM / IP Logged  
Who is "they"?  I say it is not normal.  Did your car have the Mach audio system?  Did you remove or bypass any OEM amplifiers?  Does it "pop" when turned on with the car's ignition (key,) when it is turned on with the on/off switch, or both?
walty220 
Copper - Posts: 75
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 19, 2004 at 5:53 PM / IP Logged  

my cutlass popped when its on after replacing with a pioneer head unit. try unplugging yur antenna, even when playing cds, i got popping in my music with the antenna plugged in. Ive yet to fix the problem so i couldnt tell u how, i just leave my antenna unplugged because i dont use my radio anyways

geepherder 
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Joined: October 27, 2003
Posted: January 19, 2004 at 11:34 PM / IP Logged  

Sounds like a turn on pop with the factory amplifiers.  Try this and see if it helps:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6e4lAFaoPXq/tech/kb327.html

As long as the amps use a 12v turn-on (I believe they do) this should do the trick.  All you're doing is building a delay circuit with a capacitor, and a diode.  Rather than using the headunit's remote turn-on lead, use the switched accessory wire.  Run a line from this lead, and put a diode in series with the cathode towards the amps.  Somewhere after the diode, wire an electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the amp turn-on lead.  Varying the capacitor's value will vary the turn on delay, I usually go with a 470 or 1000 uf capacitor.  Try this out and let us know if it works or not.

Superchuckles gave me the idea for this a while back when I was having a pop problem.  A quick search on google turned up the Crutchfield article.  I hope this helps.

geepherder 
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Posted: January 19, 2004 at 11:51 PM / IP Logged  
Whoops.  There would be no need to not use the head unit's amp remote wire.  The reason I wrote to use the accessory wire was because in my case I had a turn-off pop, not a turn on.  So I wired it so that the head unit would power down after the amplifier (I delayed the headunit's off time), which made it impossible to use the deck's turn-on wire for what I was trying to do.
crudeau 
Copper - Posts: 150
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 20, 2004 at 8:25 AM / IP Logged  
About 3 years ago mine did the same, but I only switched the head unit. I kept the mach460. And I didn't buy that expensive mach460 wire harness, just the regular one. There is a resistor that you have to put in line on the remote wire. The problem is that the stock amps in all 99+ stangs use 6 volts to turn on. While they can handle 12, the extra volts make the pop.
Unfortunatly I have sold the car and now have a 2003 GT and put in my complete system and ran my own wires for everything. So I can't tell you the value resistor you need. But it is only like48 cents for 5 of them. Someone on here should be able to tell you the value of it. or search on google. www.mustangworld.com is where I got the tip from. I have done it more then once, so I am 100% sure that is all you need to do.
crudeau 
Copper - Posts: 150
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 20, 2004 at 8:27 AM / IP Logged  
or do it like geepherder said but that sounds kind of involved. I'd stick with the resistor which I know will work in your stang.
Email me at crudeau@ucc-comp.com if you can't find the value for it. I'll see what I can dig up.
crudeau 
Copper - Posts: 150
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 20, 2004 at 8:30 AM / IP Logged  
ah ha... it's a 570 ohm resistor. Some else or radioshack can give you the part number. Here is an article....
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=413204
crudeau 
Copper - Posts: 150
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 20, 2004 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged  
and another...
link

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