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Taurus remote starter: blower stays on


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cpgoose 
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Posted: January 21, 2004 at 8:13 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, I realize I did something wrong, but I'm not sure how to rewire it.
I installed a Crimestopper 900 VI keyless entry/remote start module into a '93 Ford Taurus. The Taurus has 3 accessory wires that I believe need to be powered (I used to have an older bulldog module in this car, and I connected 1 acc wire from the car to 1 acc wire from the RS, and 2 other acc wires from the car to 1 ign wire from the RS, and it worked fine).
This time, I thought I would use a relay to power the 3rd ACC wire. What happens now is that the blower can turn on when the car is off, so I guess my relay configuration is wrong Taurus remote starter:  blower stays on -- posted image. Here's how I did it:
Taurus remote starter:  blower stays on -- posted image.
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djmt99 
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Posted: January 21, 2004 at 9:31 AM / IP Logged  

cpgoose:  Taurus remote starter:  blower stays on -- posted image. Wow, at about 2:00AM I tried posting the following about my own problems with the heater blower not coming on in a 1995. My post didn't go through, but I'm including it in this reply. I'm curious as to what wires you're using, I know there are a few changes in wiring between the 2, but I don't believe there is much difference between 93 & 95. Taurus remote starter:  blower stays on -- posted image.

I'm installing a Bulldog remote start (model rs1100i/rs1100ie/rs114) that my sister purchased from Sam's Club (Don't ask... if she had told me that she was buying a BD, I would've told her to get something else). Anyways, she already has it, and wants it in her 1995 Taurus (no factory security). I pretty much have everything set-up correctly, except for a few things:

1) Domelight: The BD manual says there's a DIP switch to alternate between (+) and (-) for the domelight. I cannot find a switch, and the domelight is not coming on when triggered by the keyless entry. The only location that I could get at was at the dimmer switch, and the color of the wire is a TAN or GREY wire (it's hard to say). I realize the diagram on this site says the door trigger wire is BLK/LT BL, but it's not easy to get at. Does the tap location make that much of a difference, or is the polarity just wrong? Taurus remote starter:  blower stays on -- posted image.

2) Heater Blower Power: Again, the diagram says BL/GRN specifically for the Heat/AC, but that seems to be just supplying power to the radio. Sounds like BATT/ACCY to me. The YELLOW/GRY shuts off the ABS light on the dash, but still no blower power. I have the RED / LT GRN wired in as the primary IGN. I was getting frustrated at this point, and didn't probe any more wires, with hopes to hear good news here! Taurus remote starter:  blower stays on -- posted image.

3) Finally, when connecting the main 12v supply to the unit, relays click in the brain, and relays (possibly starter solenoid?) are clicking under the hood, and possibly the fuel pump (It's really hard to decipher what and where these noises are from under a dash!). It's VERY VERY hard to tell if these are just energizing intially, or if they are locking on. I hit the wire, and you hear clicks from the brain and from under the hood, and that's it. No crank, no heat, and no smoke (that's a good thing!). Is this a normal occurance? Taurus remote starter:  blower stays on -- posted image.

I realize Bulldog isn't the best of what's around, but for my sister, I figure she gets what she pays for, and as the good brother, I'm taking the liberty of agreeing to this task. IMHO, I'm partial to DEI, but for dealing with a Bulldog for the first time, it's pretty simple. I'd like to see some more features like anti-grind... and why not through in a siren and shock sensor to make a complete system?! Hopefully my issues are simple, and I'm just missing a few things. Taurus remote starter:  blower stays on -- posted image.

Thanks for the help, in advance.

- Joe

Worcester, MA

 
Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 21, 2004 at 9:42 AM / IP Logged  
On pin 86 of the relay, do not use ground rather use the GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING wire ( YELLOW/BLACK ) wire
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
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abright52 
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Joined: September 25, 2002
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Posted: January 21, 2004 at 9:52 AM / IP Logged  
Why not use the IGN 2 wire for one of the Accessories and you can change the "Ground Out When Running" (YEL/BLK) to IGN 3. Look in the manual and it will show you how to do it.
IGN 1 - RED / Lt GRN
IGN 2 - GRY/YEL
IGN 3 - GRY/YEL
ACC - BLK/Lt GRN
Those are the same for a 95 Taurus, also djmt99.
cpgoose 
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Posted: January 21, 2004 at 9:53 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks Jeff! I kept looking at the 12v+ as the problem, but I never thought about the ground signal!
You see how that yellow/black wire is programmable either as a negative ignition output, or for the anti-grind/starter disable? Well, I hooked it up as it shows for the second option (starter disable). Can I still tap that same yellow/black wire for this other relay to power the extra accessory wire? I guess in a way I'm wiring it like the second option, but using it for both.
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abright52 
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Posted: January 21, 2004 at 9:56 AM / IP Logged  
It also shows in the manual how to split that wire off to do two seperate things.
cpgoose 
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Posted: January 21, 2004 at 10:01 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks, too, abright52.
I guess I meant to say that I needed it for an extra ACC wire, not IGN, but I'm guessing it's similar anyway. So I guess if I program it for the second option (starter disable), and then wire it for both the starter disable AND to power up the 3rd ACC wire, then that yellow/black wire will still act as I need it to. In other words, it doesn't look like the yellow/black wire acts much differently, whether you program it for the first or second option.
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Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 21, 2004 at 10:11 AM / IP Logged  
Program it for (-) ignition output which is esentially a ground out when running. IF you want an extra ACC wire, you can use this relay diagram, if you don't have another (-) trigger wire or don't feel like splitting the YELLOW/BLACK wire.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
cpgoose 
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Posted: January 21, 2004 at 10:21 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, I guess either way I'll be using that yellow/black wire.
If I program it for (-) ignition output to power the 3rd ACC wire, can I still use it for starter kill/anti-grind....because it won't activate when locking the button anymore? Or do I just have to forget about that feature?
Crap, some diagrams say the gray / YELLOW are extra ignition wires, and other diagrams say they're extra accessory wires. I guess either way, I still have to power them up.
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abright52 
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Posted: January 21, 2004 at 11:17 AM / IP Logged  
ACC and IGN are essentially the same.
You could leave the Starter Disable and use IGN 2 for that other wire.
It can't do Starter Disable and (-) IGN at the same time.
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