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Want to keep factory head unit


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Chimpie 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: July 10, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 5:16 AM / IP Logged  
Hey Everyone,
I recently purchased a 2001 Ford Taurus SES. As some of you know the radio buttons are "built-in" to the dash. Since Ford went to the oval styled console which incorporates both the radio and the A/C controls, putting in an aftermarket radio has never been eye pleasing to me.
I'd like to put in an aftermarket system but keep the factory head unit. I know, I know. I've said it a million times myself. Aftermarket head units have always been better than factory. But I don't want to lose the factory look.
Most likely I will replacing the 5x7's in the doors and rear deck and adding a 10" sub, using a 4 channel and either a 2 channel or mono-D amp (not sure on the latter).
I know about LOCs, but I'm looking for recommedations on the best way to "equalize" the signal after it leaves the factory deck.
Your thoughts and/or suggestions? (Please be as specific as possible on model names and numbers. Thanks!)
Chimp
bryceyaworsky 
Copper - Posts: 152
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 03, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 6:38 AM / IP Logged  
While I can't give you model #'s, I do seem to recall something about needing an entire aftermarket dash-piece to install an aftermarket HU in the newer Fords.  If I'm right, it'll give you the factory look since it's matched to the interior but it's also pricey.  Don't quote me though, 'cause I'm not 100%.
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 8:32 AM / IP Logged  

Don't despair, you'll get a nice system setup using the factory head.  I recently did my 2001 SE, and did a lot of homework to figure it out.  Pulling the head unit out is not necessary, because the tuner is trunk mounted on the side of the antenna, just pull the lining.  The plug on your left as you look at the tuner has the eight wires for the speakers.  (I'll have to search through my junk to find the colors, but I found that they matched the same colors as the 1998 model when I did an online search).

In any event, they're easy to get to.  I used the David Navone Engineering LOC to pick up the speaker inputs, after getting bad results using the amp's built-in high level converter.  After that ordeal, I'll always recommend using a separate LOC.  I bought the adjustable model and ended up turning it all the way to the highest setting, which you can get with the 9.5V model http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-774   for a 4 channel setup.

Use the front inputs for the interior speakers and the rear for the subwoofer, and you will be able to adjust your fade to bring up more or less subwoofer easily.   The doors are 6X8 as are the rear, but 5X7 will work as well.

I found a drilling spot for the amp power at the driver's side just under the brake pedal,  you'll just have to pull the carpet and pad down slightly to get to it.  Run the power and remote wire down the driver's side.  Attch the rem wire to a blk/? wire under the dash to the left of the steering wheel ( I'll look that up if you need). Use a multimeter to test, it should show 12V with the key to the on position, and nothing with the key off.

Run your new speaker leads up along the right side of the car.  You'll use a short amount of twisted cable at the trunk tuner to connect the speaker inputs to the LOC, and place the LOC close to the amps.  Connect the grounds for everything at the same ground spot on the sidewall that is being used for the radio tuner.  I have great results that way.

jugga-nemo 
Copper - Posts: 81
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 8:42 AM / IP Logged  
A friend of mine had an aftermarket HU installed into her 2000 Taurus.  SHe did have to purchase a new dash piece which cost her about $150 and it was just the A/C controls with a huge hole where the deck used to be.  It was a bitch to install though.
5.25" Components & 5x7 Coax Kappas w/Power Acoustik OV4-800
KAC 7252 powering 2 D3 8" Diamonds
KDC-MP728, KGC-4042A
Chimpie 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: July 10, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 11:18 AM / IP Logged  
Jugga and Bryce: Thanks for the response, but I know about the replacement panels that leave a din sized opening for a new unit. That's exactly what I don't want because a square unit in an oval dash piece to me just doesn't look right. That's why I said I want to keep the factory deck. But thanks for responding!
Steve, thanks for responding as well. I'm glad you said something about the tuner being in the trunk. I'm sure as soon as I would have pulled the dash unit out and saw no tuner was there I would have sat there with a real puzzled look on my face. Want to keep factory head unit -- posted image. HAHA
If you happen to find those wire codes that would help me out a lot. And yes, I would use a LOC and will keep the one you recommended under consideration.
I guess everyone is missing the actual point of my post. I'm looking for the best way to equalize the sound. I thought about using Audio Control's EQT model. Or I may just go with the EQS or EQX and control the bass with the Epicenter.
Do you think it would be better to run the signal through a LOC then to the audio control unit, or keep it simple and just run the speaker wires to the speaker level input on the equalizer?
I've been interested in car audio for well over 10 years now, but haven't really installed anything myself in about 5 or 6. I have lots of "base knowledge" but am not up on the current products out there.
Thanks for the response so far guys. I'm looking forward to hearing (reading?) more.
Chimp
DYohn 
Moderator - Posts: 10,741
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 11:37 AM / IP Logged  

Hi there.  The EQT is a great 1/3 octave equalizer.  It is a single channel unit (meaning you would need one for the front and another for the rear.)  The EQX (or one of the digital models) has the ability to EQ more than one channel at a time.  Realize that if you upgrade your door speakers to a nice set of 5X7 coaxials (I prefer Infinity Kappa or MB Quart or JL Audio) and add a sub, you may not need an EQ.  I do not recomend the Epicenter.

If you're interested in a real trick unit, take a look at the HPX.  It's a LOC, line driver, spatial enhancer and sub woofer crossover built into one chassis.  They are nice units.

Chimpie 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: July 10, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 11:49 AM / IP Logged  
Hey DYohn,
Yeah, that's the only difference (besides the number of bands) between the EQT and the EQX is if I wanted to buy a unit for each channel or keep it simple and cleaner with one unit.
I've seen units in the past that will take front and rear inputs and output front, rear and bass. That's kind of what I'm looking for now. I know with the EQT I won't be able to do that.
Wow, the HPX is nice, but I'm trying to steer away from another dash unit. I'm trying to keep the factory look as much as possible, but who knows what the end will bring. But yeah, a very nice piece.
Why don't you like the Epicenter?
Chimp
Sweekster 
Silver - Posts: 481
Silver spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged  
Well,
You could always add an eq to the mix as well. Most newer non amplified eq's have at least one input and 3 out puts (front rear and sub). I did something like that in my 97 altima a while back. i used to have an adjustabale 4 channel LOC going to speakers and was using an fm modulated cd changer all running from my factory single DIN tape player. I've since swapped all of that (except speakers and amp) out for a double DIN CD/Tape/Changer controlling one from a 97 maxina along with the matching changer and factory cable.
The only draw back is the fader button on my radio is useless. The main benefit is the eq is sending a higher voltage, cleaner signal to my amp. I get very clear sound from this set up.
I tapped my the signal from my rear factory speaker signals using a LOC I got from Part Express. I'm only using the front and rear outputs on the eq which is going to my 4 channel amp.
I don't drive this car very much any more since I got my X5 so I don't have a sub in it. But I get pretty deep mid bass from this setup so no need to change it at all.    
    
Duane...
If you think you're confused, imagine how you feel.   Want to keep factory head unit -- posted image.
Chimpie 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: July 10, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 11:56 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah, wanna keep the fader option available if at all possible. But thanks for the response Duane!
Chimp
DYohn 
Moderator - Posts: 10,741
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 05, 2004 at 12:18 PM / IP Logged  

I don't like the Epicenter becasue I prefer "real" bass to the subsonic systhesizer used in the Epicenter or Epic.  These units are fine if you are trying to compensate for an inadequate speaker system.  Get a good quality woofer properly installed and you won't need one.  They just add noise to your system, IMO.

If you like the HPX (or similar dash mount units) but don't want them visible, do what I do: mount them under your seat.  That way they are accessable if you need to tweak them, but you don't have to look at them and their flashing LEDs and your factory appearance ramains.

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