T-taps, for RS

I used to work at a shop that was exclusively t-tap. These aren't that bad, but I still recommend solder and I solder exclusively now. I have seen many cases where the t-tap had corroded, cut the wire tapped, and have had many stupid male connectors that did not go into the t-tap correctly. Bad T-taps are also horrible to troubleshoot, everything appears good but still doesn't work. And as far as not being able to solder the wire in some cases, in the rare situation that I couldn't solder the wire easily it would still take longer to get the t-tap on then it would take to just solder the same wire ( and I have a set of pliers that are perfect for t-taps, snap on storx pistol grip pliers). Here is the list a connection should be made IMO, solder then direct wire termination( butt conector or crimp cap), then t-tap. NEVER TWIST AND TAPE!!!!!!!!Certified Security Specialist

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Rob you cut me deep, real deep . If you dont have time to solder, another acceptable way to wire a command start is to wrap the wires and then cover them in strip chaulk or chewing gum. Make sure its something like big league and not trident, trident does not stick worth a sh*t................................................. God I hope you all caught the sarcasim here.double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

No man you can't use big league, it has to be BAZOOKA bubble gum.Certified Security Specialist

Always check info with a digital multimeter.

I promise to be good.

Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.