Glowing alternator lead

I was talking to a friend of mine to help to diagnose this problem. He said to do two things. #1. He thinks that the only way that lead could glow like that is if the lead to the fuse box from the alternator was shorting. He said if it was after that then the fuse would pop in the fuse box. He said to first to take a meter and put it in continuity test mode so that it beeps if it sees a connection. So I removed the fuse box and disconnected the lead from the car. At this point I put a meter on the chassis and the other side on the lead to the alternator. It doesn't beep solid but it does beep once and see continuity.   He said if it fails do #2 #2. He said to replace that dual 10G wire lead from the alternator to the fuse box with a 4G wire and a fuse in between. This will give better connection and another level of protection on that side of the circuit. He said he did that on his car and got another volt at idle. Quite significant. Replacing the ground at this point would be a good idea too. So I am going to clean the terminals really well and do #2 along with it and see if my alternator made it through this episode.

OK, first and foremost the alarm itself cannot cause that. The only thing at the most and is possibly a long shot is that if it is a remote start is constantly sending out power to the starter it would cause serious problems, starter draws a ton of current (you would probably be able to hear this). It sounds like there are some seriously bad grounds causing resistance. Needless to say you should not be driving this car anywhere till this is sorted out. I would recommend disconnecting the battery as well to prevent a fire.Certified Security Specialist

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It was in fact the OEM power feed from the alternator to the fuse box. I replaced that line with a 4 gauge feed and everything is great. All of my lights are brighter too; dash, headlights, etc. It seems like I am even getting better throttle response which I am sure is the case if the fuel pump and injectors were being starved for power at the low end. I ran into only a couple small snags. Once the OEM wires got to the fuse box the factory T-Spliced (with some metal crimp connectors) the headlights off of each of one of the leads from the alternator (two 10 gauge wires) and then electrical taped them. I brought my neighbor over to look at it and he said "M-I-C-K-E-Y, M-O-U-S-E" and I had to agree. Not sure why they did that, I guess for the increased power to the headlights. Just seems like there was a better way to do it that would have not been much more expensive if at all. I then put connectors on each of those wires and connected them to the bolt that the alternator lead went too. I had to use a longer bolt for that though since the factory one was long enough for one lead, not the three that I now had. For good measure I also replaced both battery terminals because they did not get as tight as I would have liked them. I also added a 100amp waterproof breaker to the line that I added so that if a short happens again that breaker should trip.