High Beams on without momentarily blankin

Thanks.  One more problem.  Since I actually installed the HID's this weekend, I tried using the flash to pass AND putting the High Beams on (even though none are connected) and the HID's turned off.  Not sure exactly why I got 12v+ coming off of the Low Beam side during my tests with NO bulbs.  I hate to think that I'm going to need to use a separate switch after all - but that is sounding more and more like the "easy way out".  Any ideas (more ideas) ???

Thanks ... AGAIN!

Check out www.pac-audio.com.  I installed a PAC TR-7 module in my Land Rover Discovery and it allowed me to control multiple sets of driving lights using 1 momentary switch.  This module is programmable to do may different things.  I set it up on my lights like this.  The first press of the momentary switch turned the driving lights on.  The second press turned the 2nd set of driving lights on and the 1st set of driving lights off.  The third press turned both sets on.  The fourth press turned both sets off. Cool cause you can do multiple functions with one switch or pulse off a spare alarm channel.  Something you may be interested in.  I bought the module from Staub Electronics in Canada and dealer cost was around 35 bucks.

If you are still looking for a timer check out Releco, they have an off-delay that times down to 0.2 seconds-30 minutes ajustable (don't know the cost ) An electrical wholesaler will probably carry it.  It's rated for 9-18volt DC.  The module you showed me with the 50 second time would work, the only problem is when you actually shut the low beam switch off, the lights will stay on for 50 seconds before actually going off .  The flicker problem should be cured with that module though a timer with lower time setting would be better.

Brock

Hmmm.  Also interesting.  My hope was to retain my original headlight switch and original High Beam Stalk.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, when I hit the "flash to pass" OR the high beams, my low beams (HID's) go OFF.  Not as I expected with my testing phase.  Confusing.  Is there a way to keep the Low's on ALONG WITH the Highs ... now that we have this "new information"?  Can I use a relay off of the highs to supply power back to the lows when activated?  Then, I would still get a glitch or two when the power is applied/removed, right?  This is requiring way more brain power than I had imagined.  Thanks ...

Rick

Anything can be done but I need to know the polarity on the low/high beam light switch when operating with low beams on and with highs on.  So what your saying is you don't get 12 volts on both low beam and high beam trigger at the same time only 12 volts on one or the other.  If this is the case I can get lows and highs on at the same time using a seal-in or holding contact circuit, but my problem would be shutting the low beams off after you turn the switch completely off.  I'll have to figure a way out to do it using just the factory switch.  I can do it using a separate off switch but that is not cool and the easy way out. I didn't realize that the lows shut off completely when switched to high beams, I thought they remained on with the glitch.  The off-delay timer would have fixed the problem if that was the case but now your saying the lows turn off when switched to highs right?  I'll see what I can come up with, I might need a little time.

Brock 

Thanks Brock.  You're 100% correct.  I have not tested the H4 connector since installing the HID's.  I've got nothing connected to the High Beam Leg at all and the HID's (Low Beam Trigger) go OFF when I hit the "flash to pass" or flip the High Beam ON.   I can't imagine that I'm still getting 12Volts on the low side unless the ballast is shutting down momentarily with the glitch.  If you need me to test it again - it would be tricky ... but manageable.

I really appreciate your assistance and willingness to help solve my problem.  Should we continue on the board - or off line email direct?  Your call.  Perhaps someone else is trying to do EXACTLY what we're trying to do and can benefit?

Thanks! - Rick

On the board is fine with me.  I have to go on a course out of town next week and I don't have a lap top, so don't panic if I don't get back to you for a bit.  Let me know what you come up with and I'll try to help you get this solved. If I get any more ideas I'll let you know.

Brock

Thanks again, and have a safe trip! - Rick

Rick it came to me last night.  I've got it figured out now that I know exactly how your factory switch is operating.  This circuit will turn on the low beams (HID's) using the factory switch, turn on the high beams with factory switch leaving the low beams on without momentarily shutting off, and when the switch is turned off, no lights on,  the low beams will shut off.  I think this is what you are trying to achieve right? 

You will need two bosch type SPDT 30 amp relays and two 12volt DC off-delay timers like we talked about before.  I will get a diagram off to you to follow, in the mean time you can get the parts.  I'm 100% confident this circuit will work for what you want to do.

Brock

Yes!  I basically want to use the factory switch for my HID lows, use the flash to pass OR high beams while keeping the HID's ON, Have them STAY on even with the high beams off and have them go off when I turn them off via the factory switch.  That's what you said, right?  Basically, seamless factory operation with the exception of the highs staying on.

Here's the email I just sent you to summarize:

H4 Low ON WITH High Beams?

OK … I'm sure I'm not the first to ask this question. How do I KEEP my low beam on WHILE I use the "Flash To Pass" OR the High Beam on switch?

I recently converted to HID and kept the H4 socket connection directly to the ballast using the 9006 female to make my harness. I'm providing the 12V + and ground directly from the existing (upgraded/fused/relayed)

H4 wiring harness. I would like to be able to use my existing PIAA driving lights as my high beams using the existing steering column mounted switch and have the Lows - HID's - remain ON as well.

How exactly can I do that? Now, with NOTHING connected to the High Beam wire of the H4, and my Low Beams on (HID) - "flash-to-pass OR High Beams on TURN OFF the HID's. I tested all H4 connections before installing the HID's and it seemed as if the Low beam side was still hot when I switched to the High. A little confusing to me.

I know the easy way out would be to use another switch - but I really want to retain the existing one. And, if someone else is driving my Jeep, I don't want them to look for the High Beams and damage the HID Ballast by repeatedly trying it without results.

Brock,

Thanks ... AGAIN!

Brock, Can you look at these links for me?  I called my local electronics shop and the off-delay timre is $120.00 EACH.  I'm not going to be spending $240 + the pair of relays + the box + the cable ...  I almost fell out of my chair.

Here goes:

http://www.ics-timers.com/khtimers1.html

http://www.ics-timers.com/kd6xxsel.html

http://www.ics-timers.com/products.html

Here are a few links I found.  The one below looks good, I think!

http://www.hometech.com/brains/timers.html