98 tahoe remote starter

The remote starter is a TRC model ZR-25

Looking over the wiring instructions has bout some real world questions from a newbie.

Pin 1 Blue wire- 1 pluse remote start(-) input. connect from aux. output from aftermarket alarm. ... I dont have a alarm so I take it this wire is not used/discarded correct?

Pin 3- WHITE/ red wire- parking brake input (-) this wire must be hooked to parking break wire....Being this truck is a automatic do I still need to hook up this wire??

Pin4 Green wire- Neg (-) door input, connect to door switch that shows ground when the door is open...????              

Pin 5- Violet wire- Pos (+) door input, connect to door switch that is +12V when door is open. (usually found on fords). Do I actually need  pin 4 and disregard pin 5??and can this connection be made at the underdash light as shown in the vehical wiring diagram?

Pin 7 WHITE/ black wire- connect to hood pin provided , must provide a ground when switch is opened...Can I wire this to the underhood courtsy light instead??

Pin 9 Violet/white wire- factory rearm output (-) 500mA. provides ground to output on remote start shutdown to rearm a factory security system....Being this truck does not have a factory security ALARM do I disregard this wire?

Pin 10 WHITE/ Violet wire- factory disarm(-) ...AS above being the truck does not have a factory or aftermarket alarm Do I disregard this wire as well??

Pin 11 Blue/Orange wire- Ground when running output (-) 500mA. connect to factory security bypass module if required...I take it this is where the PLXR bypass hooks into system ???

Pin 12 Orange wire- anti-grind output(-) 500mA. the orange wire provides a ground output to activate a relay for anti grind protection...who. what?? brain is smokin , I dont see anything for this hookup on the wiring diagram provided from here and directechs??

Pin 13 Gray wire- auxiliary output (-) 500mA connect to relay foroptional features such as Rear hatch. .... I take it this is wiried right to the hatch release wires so remote can open hatch???

Pin 14 GREEN / WHITE wire- brake input (+) connect to wire that shows +12v when brake is applied...Wiring diagram says to hook at switch on brake pedel..Is there another locaton to find this connection. I cannot get to the switch above the pedel, or is this not the switch???where is the switch located if I am grabbing the wrong thing? the one I am grabbing is above the pedel behind the steering column brackets. I cant even see the switch but something is there with wires ???Brain is smokin a bit more now....

Yup This is my first time EVER installing a remote starter, I am sure with proper guidance I will do fine..I do like a challange but this one is fryin my brain cells. I have to have this truck running by sunday night.

Thanks, James K. 

http://www.directechs.com/directwire/wire_body.asp?action=select&yr=2562&product=Remote%20Start

heres a limk to a tech sheet for your tahoe

pin 1 not used

pin3  correct

pin7 the hood pin is a safty feature, when the hood opens, the wire is grounded and the remote starter won't start. You dont HAVE to hook it up.....but its a good idea.

pin9....dis reguard it, sme with pin 10

pin 11...you got it.

pin 12...you dont NEED it...another safty feature.

pin 13 correct....use a relay though.....bee safe

pin 14....yup, ya gotta get this one hooked to the white wire at the break switch.

GOOD LUCK....

Ok James lets see if I cant help you a little bit. I'm no expert but, I do have some experience.

Pin 1.  Shouldn't need it.

Pin 3. The diagram I see says its a positive brake light on the 98 Tahoe so I dont think you need this wire. Does your install manual say anymore about what it's for?

Pin 4 and 5  You would just use one or the other depending on whether the wire you are interfacing is pos. or Neg.   The underdash light should be fine.

Pin 7. I wouldn't hook to light. I would install the pin switch like it tells you. It's not hard. Its  a safety feature to make certain it cant remote start while you are under the hood.

Pin 9 and 10.  Yep just disregard.

Pin 11. Yes that will activate your bypass module during remote start.

Pin 12. Anti grind is a feature I highly recommend. This will keep you from getting in and turning the key while it's already running grinding your starter. I know what your thinking I wont turn the key all the way forward I know I have it running but, believe me it will happen.  This wire should go to pin 85 of  a relay Pin 86 will go to pos 12 volts. You can tap into Ignition 1 for it if you would like. The starter wire on your vehicle (yellow or purple on the diagram I see) will then be cut in half. Connect the key side to 87A of the relay and the other side to pin 30

Pin 13. It wouldn't go right to the hatch wires it would go to a relay which in turn the output of the relay would go to the hatch wire if you desire this feature. If you dont want it then just disregard.

Pin 14. Switch should be mounted on the brake pedal. You said you see wires. If you see a white wire use your meter and probe it to see if it gets 12 volts when you press the pedal. If so thats the one you want.

I'd appreciate if you get post back and let me know how it went.  You should use your meter to verify all wires. Sometimes tech sheets contain mistakes. Good luck and hope this helps.

KarTuneMan, thanks for the info.

The reason I ask about using the underhood/courtsy light is as follows. I hate to drill into cars/trucks, the light turns on when hood opens approx. 6 inch's. Figured this would be a way to eliminate drilling , BUT would still be a saftey feature.

Boomer_106 , for pin  3 it says the following..

Pin 3-WHITE/ Red wire- parking brake input (-) . This wire must be connected to the parking brake wire. For vehicles with a neg. parking brake wire, a relay must be used to invert the polarity.....I figured that being this is a automatic transmission that this was only for manual trans installation.

How would I go about wiring a relay for the hatch relase, It is a positive trigger system for this truck (has rear glass lift window/hatch , NO cargo doors).

Now for the big pain in the butt one....The brake light switch....I cannot see the switch, is it the connector above all the brake linkage? there is a steering column support bracket under the dash off the firewall. I can feel some wires if I reach over the bracket but CANT see them. Does this sound like the switch? or is it out under the hood on tha master cylinder. There is some other harness's to the right of the steering column but have no idea what they are.

I will keep ya posted ...

Thanks guys any more input from anyone would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks again, back to it in the AM and hopefully have it together and workin.. James K...

Ok James I dont see why you need the pin 3. It sounds correct that it's for a manual transmission.

Wiring the relay for hatch release is as follows. Pin 13 gray wire to 85 of the relay. 86 to pos. 12 volts.  87 to either pos 12 or to ground depending what signal your hatch release needs. Terminal 30 would go to the hatch wire.

Now the pain in the butt. The switch is usually right on the brake pedal itself. You said you see wires running down it. If you can find a white one check and see if it gets 12 volts when you apply the brake. I have never had to get  one along the door like Ken is suggesting but, you can look if all else fails.

As far as not drilling for the pin switch if you are creative you can figure something out. I know what you mean I dont like making more holes either.  You could fashion a small piece of sheet metal and drill your hole and mount the pin switch in that. Then you would just have to somehow clamp that small piece to something. Just make sure it's strong, reliable, and the clamp doesnt stop your hood from closing   

Boomer_106, Thanks I will do the relay for the rear hatch.

Now onto part oh say 652....

The passlock bypass unit. I bought a Bypasskit.com unit. It is the PLXR model. looking over the wiring diagram provided it seems pretty cut and clear. I just want to ask to make sure I have it right the first time. This unit covers passlock 1&2 VATS and ION systems.

The wiring is as follows:

input (-) brown- neg. ground out when running-remote starter installation only...I am sure this goes to the Pin 11 of the remote starter unit..

output (-) green , Key sense out. this is not color coded on the wiring diagram with this unit does anyone know what color I am looking for?

output (RV) Blue , resistor value...They show splice this into yellow line from ignition key to BCM and also to VATS...is it either or or does this truck have both??? 

Output (-) violet/white, bulb test out (passlock 1 ONLY)...I assume this line is not used and discard.

Input (+) Violet, starter wire in (passlock 1 ONLY).. I assume this line is not used either being truck is passlock 2..

N/C pink/white N/C..No idea but guess N/C maybe means no current. So I guess this line also is not used??

Input (+) Pink, ignition...The wiring diagram shows this going to The ignition wire comming from switch to remote starter. Which should be the pink line in the main harness in column correct??

N/C Orange N/C..guess this is also discarded/not used...

Input (+) Red, connect to constant 12V . I guess this can be wired from one of the acc. outlets on the dash, or cig lighter power supply..?

Input (-) Black, ground...WHOO HOO that one is easy...

Now on the diagram it shows going from Ignition Key to BCM (what ever that is) a box saying passlock 1&2. In there it shows 3 lines running through it. The lines are white, Black, Yellow. Then further down the same line shows passlock 2 ONLY. The wire color codes are RED / white and ORANGE / black, these are also inline with the ignition key to BCM.

In the steering column harness comming from the ignition key I have the following color wires.

RED / White , ORANGE / Black , Tan/white, solid Black, solid Brown, Solid Yellow, Solid Green and BLACK/ white. the other lines are thicker guage lines. I guess I am asking for the PLXR unit am I correct on the following...

Connect the brown line directly to the bypass connection line on the remote starter

Connect the Pink ignition line to the pink heavy guage line in the steering column or the remote starter line connected to the pink l

Connect the blue resistor value line directly to the solid yellow line.

Connect the Red Constant 12V line to a constant power supply like the cig. lighter or acc.outlet.

Connect the ground to the dash ground bolt.

Do I need to connect the key sense  wire and if so where or what color is this line? I have nothing showing this info.

Man the clock is ticking....I owe ya all A big thanks for dealing with this and helping out.  James K.

Iskidoo, this unit is for automatic/manual transmission. All is going slow but well with guidance from the folks here.

I am just being real cautious on the install, being I have never installed a remote starter or alarm this is all new waters for me. I also have the added fun of it being my wifes truck. I have soldered all connections so far.

I know once this is all together and the pin plugs are plugged into the brain it has to be programmed. I guess the good thing is I did not cut any lines. I removed just enough insulation to solder the added lines into the main lines. Then did a nice tight tape over. I was originally thinking of cutting each line slipping heat shrink on the connections after soldering. But later decided to do it the least avasive way possible.

does the last post on the PLXR look correct as to what I am thinking ??? I just want to make sure before I go foward with this last few steps...James K.