What a sticky mess of answers. Lets start with the last one. If you throw a line driver on your system and turn the gain down on your amps it will not make a bit of difference (except give you better SQ do to lower signal loss). The amps are going to draw the same amount of current at their peak output reguardless of whether the gain is turned 3/4 of the way up or if it is turned all the way down. Remember that a gain control is not a volume control. All the gain control is used for is to match the voltage level your deck puts out to the amplifier. Some decks put out .5v, some 2v, some 4v, and some even 8v... For instance, if your deck puts out 2v, turning the gain up about 4 times as much as you would if you had a deck with a 8v preout will obtain the same level of signal amplification. At this level, the amp is going to draw the same amount of current whether or not you have 2v of signal or 8v of signal accordingly, plain and simple.
Moving on up, disconnecting your cap is not going to make a difference. Scratch that. Try replacing it with a bigger cap if you do anything.
Next on the list, you dont need to replace any amps, you need to fix your existing problem by properly troubleshooting it. If high levels of bass make it sound like your entire system is skipping, It is more likely than not your deck. Think about it, it's coming through all the speakers along with the subs.. If this isn't the problem, there is a long list of things to check for. First, look at the power lights on your amps when you crank your system and this occurs. Are they flickering on and off? If so, check your ground. You can never assume that any ground is "solid," due to how that spot could have several welds and could possibly even be glued in several places before it reaches the battery. Use a DMM and connect one lead to your negative battery terminal and one to the place you grounded your amps (you did ground them all at the same place, right?). Check the resistance level. If it reads high then start testing other remote locations that could possible provide a less resistive path to the battery. Remember that you ground is just as important as that 4 gauge power wire running back to your amp, so get a good ground. Also, if you haven't done this, upgrade your factory chassis ground wire running to the battery to a 4 gauge wire... this will also lower resistance and allow more current to flow. If the amp is indeed turning on and off, and you do have a good ground, take your DMM and see how low the voltage dips on your sub amp. With a pyle amp, I'd think it might shut fairly easy with a good voltage drop because it has a crappy power supply. If that is the case, check to see if your alternator is bad, and if so replace it. If not, try upgrading your charging system and putting a bigger cap in. As far as I'm concerned, the pyle amp cannot be putting out over 600w continous, and thats giving it a lot of credit... it's probably less than that. So I think at most you whole system isn't pulling more than 90 amps (probably not even 90, just a conclusion drawn upon what you have told me). There are several more things it could be, and I don't feel like typing anymore, so if you need anymore help drop me a line...
-Jesse
jellynutz@aol.com
Earmark Car Audio - The Leader Loud and Clear
www.earmark.com
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