1999 Mercedes SLK 230, compustar

hahaTell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!

5150azn wrote: haha

What do you mean bud???

anythings possible. for schematic info go to vehicle information. I'm not 100% sure but you might have to disable the ignition lock/unlock settings on the alarm bcuz when you start the car the doors are going to lock then enabaling the mercedes immobilizer and the car won't start.

Well i started the install of a compustar 2way the 4000 i think and got most of it in. I cant find the starter wire which i was told was purple but it isnt there. This car as the funky keys that snap open and they gave me a DEI 556U bypass and the key doesn't fit any suggestions guys also the system has power and chirps for tach sensing but wont arm and disarm. Do i have to program the remotes into the system? I have never done a compustar but i have done thousands of others can someone help me ASAP any suggestions.

the starter wire you could get it from the driver under dash going to the firewall to the engine compartment. thick wire loom. that's were i got it on the 96 c220 i did for keyless entry.as for the key issue you might want to use the valet key or try to modify it to fit in the module, unless there's one out there that fits your style of key. door trigger you could get them from the driver kick panel or passenger kick panel.

what about the remotes do theyneed to be programed into the system because they dont work.

check out this post of mine that i started while doing the door locks. it was a lengthy process 99 slk 230 door locks i got the starter wire from the ignition switch. the car i did it on had 3 keys. i put the standard key in the immobilizer bypass box, they are no longer using the big flip key. they use the small key for the ignition. the roof issue is a different issue. the roof switch is a 6 contact switch. - this pin measured ~5V which i assume lights the switch - another pin measured ~12V which provides power for the relay. - the other 4 pins are pairs that open or close the roof when the button is pulled or pushed. the problem is i measured ~9.75V. it sounds like if you use a voltage divider and drop the 12V to 9.75V and apply this to the pin to open or close, it should actually open or close. i did not test this. - the other option is to use 3 relays. one to connect the contacts to open. one to connect the contacts to close. one that powers the correct ignition wire during this process to energize the relay inside the switch. my link above should have information about the tach wire too. look for the wire under the engine cover bundled with the special heat wrap stuff. it's supposed to be black or BLACK/ white but the wire i found was actually BLACK/ green. if one wire doesn't work, try the other one. i measured around 3V. i have no comments about the windows.