First off, to Poormanq45, current is current is current... it does not matter WHAT the voltage is, as long as you remain within the safe thermal operating limits of the insulation. The heat in a wire is DIRECTLY correlated to the amount of current being pulled through it. The voltage drop at that current is the heat lost in the wire. Example: If you are pulling 100 amps through a wire (forget the voltage referenced to ground or neutral - 12v, 240v, 600v), and your voltage drop is 1 volt (end to end drop), that wire is dissapating 100 watts. It does not matter whether it is 15000 volts or 15 volts. The voltage drop TIMES the CURRENT is all you are worried about.
Wire is not rated in voltage. Insulation is. When you look at THHN wire at your local Home Depot, and you see 600v pasted all over that wire, all that is saying to you is that the insulation protecting the wire is rated at 600 volts. I think this is where your confusion is happening. Also, if you are thinking that a #4 is rated at 80A, you would be correct. The National Electrical Code states this is the maximum rated current interruping device for this size wire, BUT it also SHOULD tell you that it is ONLY for the current carryinig conductor in the circuit, IN CONDUIT. The neutral in North America and the ground are NOT considered current carrying conductors. 12 volts DOES not listen to the NEC.
Secondly: Here is the answer to ace customs...
Lets break this up alittle bit, shall we?
ace customs wrote:
My setup right now it a four guage wite wire a 250 amp fuse on it going to a distribution block that goes to two Audiobahn D class 1200 rms amps. |
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First off, you ARE looking at causing a fire if anything ever happens to the insulation on that 4 gauge. A #4 should NEVER be fused higher than 150A. In fact, you are even overfused for a #2, which should be fused at 225A.
ace customs wrote:
I have them bridged together creating 2400 rms at 2ohms. The orion 12 is dual 4 ohm with bridges to 2 ohm. It is in a ported box right now with the correct amount of air space and port size. I also have three 1 farad capacitors. |
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Yes the amplifiers can be bridged, but the speaker does not bridge, it is a load. If the voice coils are wired in parallel, you are presenting a 2 ohm load to the amplifiers, INTO which the amplifiers are bridged. You are probably correct in your statement of a two ohm load bridged. External bridging of an amplifier DOES NOT cause them to behave the same as internal bridging. Internal bridging inverts one channel, causing twice the voltage across the load, thus quadrupling the power. In MOST cases, an external bridge simply allows the outputs of BOTH amplifiers to be placed across the load in parallel, thus keeping the voltage and current the same into one half the load - thus DOUBLING the power. I cannot speak to the external bridging methods of the Audiobohms, as I have never used them.
ace customs wrote:
I already have one more orion h2 12 that i am going to put in there with a dual ported box and two more d class audiobahn 1200 rms amps. I understand that my alternator will only put out so much power not sure on exact figure but i assume it is around 110 amps. Without adding a new alternator can this system be ran in this car with another battery or huge capacitor. Will the alternator be strong enough to keep the system charged. |
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No. Period. You are asking for trouble and/or early electrical system failure, if you insist on taxing this electrical system much further than you already are. If ALL you ever had was 2400 watts (shyah, right) of digital power, you will already be pulling as much as 2400/.8=3000 watts IN, divided by 14.4 volts is 208 amps. You are so far beyond your current capabilities as it is, I can't even begin to imagine the issues you will be seeing. Later on in your post, you mention no wanting to void your warranty? It'll be voided by electical system failure for sure...
ace customs wrote:
It will only be played very loudly for demos and comps. I am going to upgrade to 0 guage whether it will truely give off that much power or not. It sounds like to me everyone has a different opinion on how much watts 4 guage will hold. I am planing on using a 1 input 4 ouput distribution block. 0 guage in and 4 guage out after the connection to the second battery in the trunk. It sounds like I need an HO alternator anyways even with my current system. I dont have problems with power drainage though like on previous cars. The lights dont dim when the bass hits. |
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Probably not... Your amps are getting NOWHERE NEAR the current required to produce all of the power they are "capable" of, simply due to the resistance in your power cable from the battery to the system...
ace customs wrote:
Does anyone know where I can get an HO alternator for my car. |
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I have had good luck with www.4alterstart.com, but apparently, some others have not had QUITE the good luck I have had... Perhaps there are others willing to have an input.
ace customs wrote:
You are right about caps only being good for a couple of thumps. The first three or four thumps are the loudest then the power slowly decreases. I notices that haemphyst said that I dont need another alternator and then sedate says that I do. It makes sense to me to get one, but I still have like 2 years of waranty and like 30000miles so I didnt want to add an alternator if I dont have to. |
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I have re-read the posts I have made, and I cannot see anywhere I said you did not need a larger alternator. The reason you are experiencin what you are experiencing is because you simply DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH ALTERNATOR... End of story. You MUST buy a larger alternator right now, let alone doubling the damand you are thinking about placing on you existing electrical system. I have said this before, and I will probably end up saying it again - caps are NOT completely useless, but they DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO FIX A LOW CURRETN/LOW VOLTAGE CONDITION. This is what you have right now.
ace customs wrote:
It would be easy to just pop an extra battery out of the trunk. You all sound like you know what you are talking about but you all have different ways of backing up your opinions. Oh and it sounds like to me senate that even if I have an HO alternator it wont produce enough amps to power this system. Because yeah your right it is 240 amps for just the too amps thats 480 for four. I know it wont realistically be that much but even if it was 300 amps there isnt an HO alternator big enough to produce this much power. Sound do I need to split the current amps one on each sub and leave out the other two amps all together. |
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You WILL need a big alternator, possibly a dual alternator setup for a system like this. You are absolutely correct in saying there is no (single) alternator available to provide this kind of current. If you think I am wrong, or that anybody else is more right, please check out a 12volt.com VERY often quoted website here: www.bcae1.com, and do some research for yourself. There are people here that know more than I do, but on all of the information I have posted, I feel EXTREMELY correct...
thirdly:
wayland1985 wrote:
lol...250 amp fuse... Must look reaaaal pretty... |
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I bet it does, but you are off base... Read on.
wayland1985 wrote:
Anyways, in any case, your amp will never suck out 240 amps. In order for that to happen, I beleive, the gain needs to be up 100% and the volume 100%, and the beat needs to have a huge peak. It won't draw a constant 240 amps (unless your playing helicopter soundtracks at full volume, or something along those lines) |
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Whether it pulls 250A or not, that IS NOT what the primary fuse is there for... The primary fuse is to protect the primary wire, and you NEVER fuse it for more than the wire is rated for. Please see
this chart, if you do not understand this...
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."