Dealer Nightmare

Yeah, I noticed that. So much for professionally installed. Heh. Obviously, I am far from an expert on this stuff. As you can tell, I was pretty hot when I first posted this. The truck is still in the same condition. No time to fiddle with it, maybe tomorrow. Besides, I learned a long time ago not to work of things like this when I'm mad. So, what should I use for connectors to repair this thing? Is there any chance the alarm is messed up, and the dealer was right in saying there is a short somewhere? They did say the power was totally out, and nothing worked, so they had to bypass it. What are the odds if it going out at the dealers, when its been totally reliable for years? I know it's imposable for any of you to know the answer, but do you think I should check the connections to the control unit or something? What should I do if, after reconnecting the wires, the truck has no power? In other words, what would you do? My biggest fear is I'll hook it back up and the thing will catch fire or something. Feel free to make me feel stupid. Believe me, I already do and it can't get much worse.

Any moron can make a butt connector work properly.  At least 30% of our bussiness is fixing "experts" who don't know how to solder properly.  The point is, if you do not know what your doing, don't  do it.

well man the dealer will tell you anything to cover there ass, and yes there are master mechanics that don't know nothing about an alarm system and how it functions. It's rare when you meet one that has the ability to understand both mechanical and aftermarket. If you drove your truck to the dealer and they handed you a non operational vehicle back with nothing that works then you should raise hell and talk to the service manager or dealer manager so they could fix your truck the same way you drove it into there dealership.If you did not give them permission to withdraw the alarm then they have to pay for a new alarm, and repair your truck for free. 

That is exactly what I should do. I would love to walk in there and hand them a bill. Unfortunately, the shop that did the install is literally 1000 miles away. I have looked into finding a local shop to make the repair, but there is none. Nothing even close. Plenty of gun shops though. Lol. I should have no trouble removing the butt joints and soldering the wires. What do you guys use for insulation? I don't think wrapping in electrical tape is appropriate. Should I use that heat shrink stuff? Thanks for all the good advise.

Electrical tape is very appropriate when you solder, be shure its nice, tight and double wrap the high current wires. Heat shrink works great too.2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

The saga continues. This morning I repaired the dealers hack job. Removed all butt joints and soldered the wires together. Before I started, with installation manual in hand and schematic in front of me, I triple checked everything to make very sure I was connecting everything correctly. I am positive I got it right, and the connections were good. Of this I am sure. Reconnected the battery, put the key in the ignition and turn. Nothing. Absolutely dead. No power to anything. So I referred to the schematic again to see where the fuses are. Sure enough, a 20 amp and a 5 amp coming off the positive side the battery. Open the hood, find the 20 amp fuse and pull it out. Yup, blown. Insert new fuse, hear the chip and think I'm back in business. Press the remote and the system arms like normal. Press it again and it disarms. Good to go. Wrong! Key in ignition again, everything powers up, but the starter still dead. Also notice my windows will not go back up, the air conditioner is dead, wipers and turn signals not working. Also will not come out of park. Everything else is working (radio, door locks, lights, etc.). I figure the 5 amp fuse is blown too. Start to look, cannot find it anywhere. I checked every fuse I could find, all good, except I can not find the 5 amp fuse as shown in the schematic. As I'm elbow deep in wires under the dash, looking for the fuse, it starts to rain. Did I mention my windows are down? I scramble into the garage and find some jumper wires (clips on both ends), dig through heat shrink & tape I just installed, and jump the dang thing to get it out of the rain. I'm not having a good time. Any ideas? Help a brother out here & let me know what I should do next. This is the worst experience. Thanks for anything you've got.

The truck is a 2002 Toyota Tundra. The fuse powered the alarm. See image below: