Delayed relay output?

I finished a schematic of the switch

Opps, the input (B) 175, should be 'HOT AT ALL TIMES'... sorry ;)

So it will latch the relay I'm adding? I don't quite follow what you mean by were I should hook up the new relay from the RS, sorry...

..I would hook the relay up 87 to one side of the switch itself, and 30 to the other side? So it would latch the relay I'm using and still use the timer in the circuit???

Correct me if I'm wrong plzs :)

I dunno where to hook up wires to test to see if it will latch itself or not (you said dont hook anything up to the red side, so I'm not sure what other spot will 'pull' it in, if it even will)... I don't want to fry the switch as parts for these cars are hard to find around here :( I don't think it will pull the switch closed as the spring onit is pretty stiff and would take a heck a lot to pull...

I also have problems with the remote starter unit itself :(

I needed to split the Acc output as it has only one wire and my car needs two. I hooked two relays to the acc wire (86 on each relay to the Acc wire from the RS, 85 on each to 'ground out while running') and then powered the wires seperately. (The manual says to diode isolate each relay at 'ground out while running' wire, so I put the diode stripes towards the RS module, right?) This is the way I did it first and nothing. Then tried reversing the diodes, nothing... So then I disconnected both relays and started it with the remote and checked the Acc wire from the RS, no power at all coming from it :( I tried to put the ground from the relays direct to the frame after this to see if the diodes were bad and still no go...

I think it has a dead relay in the RS unit as it is not outputting power at all the Acc cicuit. I even pulled the cover off the module and theres no power coming from the relay contact to the output terminal and the cover of just the Acc relay is warmer than the other relays in there and I din't feel it click when remote starting :( I will take it to the store and exchange it tomorrow...

My luck stinks when it comes to my car, lol... Hence why I am hesitant to fool with the defrost switch much ;)

Sounds like you had it wired okay the first time with the diode stripe toward the RS ground while running. 

Did you have the ACC out from the RS hooked up directly to the car before splitting it using the relays?  Maybe the output rating of the RS output couldn't handle the draw of the circuit-  always safer to use the output to drive an external relay if you're not sure, so it protects the RS.

The connections to the defroster relay should be at the heavy solder connections, if you check continuity with your DMM when you push the switch closed (out of car, unpowered), you should see a connection between those two points.