professional install or not?

Hi you Pros out there, generally how long does it take you to install an alarm system that includes P door lock, Park lights, siren??

Also when you connect or interface your alarm system to the vehicle, what method connection do you guys use to be considered life time gureentee quality?

Do you cut the factory wire then crimp? or jsut strip the insulation wrap then hold it with E tape? or cut the factory wires solder then heat shrink? or strip insulation solder  then E tape it???

Wahts the most popular method used?

especially the MECP ppl whcih way did they teach you??

Thanks!

WTF????

MECP uses those mickey mouse T-tap methods???

See I live in vencouver and I'll never have a chance to fly to phonex or toronto for that school, so I am figuring out the best way to install alarms and stereos for ppl and for myself.

Well I of course know that soldering is the best solid connections and most reiable. I dun work for any shop, alarm inst   is only my hobbie that I do at home. I work for an aircraft conpany and electrical connections and mods has to be 100% quality and reliable and we actually uses a Gel type tube which has a little bit of solder and waxy plastic stuff inside then when I uses a heat gun solder melts first inside then the plastice stuff and makes a sealed and solid connection. thats the best stuff I use on my car and some of my buddies car.

but one piece of the Gel tubes are Approx $2US each!

I think you will find that everyone does someting different.  For enstance, I use but connectors and e-tape and zips and have never ever had a job come back with installation problems unless it was a wrong connection type.

I personally don't beleave in t-taps.  Stripping wires and soldering takes time and when you have other installers your watching after, I don't want to take the risk of fire, burns, property damage, from one of my installers getting distracted.

Installation time varies upon what car and what you are doing to it.  Labor rates start at $100 and goes up from there.  Thats basing it on a $30/hour labor rate, giving the installer roughly 3 hours to do the install before you start loosing money on the install.  Generally I add $30 for every Item added to the install.  IE: Door lock actuators, hood or trunk pins, etc..

Above all else QC your work before you put the car completely back together.  Thats my policy.  My installers have to have a different installer or me check it out for neatness, connections, operation, and for damage.

Horkus, what are these gel tubes officially called? I was curious as to what they look like and how effective they work. Maybe I'll pick up a few to try them out.

I normally just do audio installs for hobby and friends. In which case I use t taps with a drop of dielectric grease inside the crimp connectors. The grease keeps moisture out and helps the connection. I use t taps so that way I can revert back to the OEM install by simply removing the connectors from the t tap (does that make sense?). I do this for audio  because we're always upgrading so it's a matter of pulling apart a connector and plugging in a new one; 4 seconds and your done. If it’s going to sit a while, I’ll also wrap with e-tape. That’s my reasoning and I know some people are cringing in their seats reading this but this is why we have opinions and we all use what works for us. By the way, I’m only reading in the Security forums trying to decide which alarm to get and whether to install it myself. So don’t mind me.