Hi, it's bitter cold already and only my passenger's side door lock works! I can't even climb in through the trunk!
This car has power locks and probably factory keyless entry, but I'm not bothering with that when I can rig a real alarm. My main priority is to have reliable keyless entry for obvious reasons (I don't plan on ever fixing those locks!)
Working from this chart.... 1990-93 Mitsubishi Eclipse Alarm Information
I have tapped into the BROWN / blue and BROWN / white wires at the lock relay, batt and acc at the ignition switch and ground. This is about as far as I got before I realized my old viper didn't even have the 6 wire plug for the lock relay...oops! I could solder directly to the pins, but I have a truck with manual locks to put this in, the rest of it works fine. So, before anything, I need a new alarm for the Eclipse....but having the wiring in order is a big plus!
This car already has one wierd problem, the interior lights won't come on with the doors open, but the trunk will turn these on. At first I assumed the pin switches, but the key and headlight warning bezel sounds when the door is open when either is left in/on... That may affect the alarm function, but I could care less, I need the locks to work first.
The other thing I've noticed is the passengers door lock will not lock the doors, it will lock then immeadiately unlock, only the driver's lock will lock the doors. It also does this while I'm unlocking it with the key, it unlocks....then locks again right away! This was a real embarrasment, so I started to open the door before it would lock again, at which point it would go into a 'power lock siezure' toggling back and forth, creating a new challenge to close the door inbetween lock cycles and drive away... it would eventually stop. The strangest thing is it doesn't do this any more AFTER I pulled the relay, slid those two pins out so I could have room to tap into the wires and then put it all back together. Maybe the relay is flakey or there was a bad contact point, whatever it was...it seems to work normally now. Before it would take about 15 tries before the lock would stay unlocked, so I could walk around instead of reach through the car and unlock it...which could also cause a power lock siezure...
When I touched either br/bl or br/wt wires to ground to test the relay, it would try to lock or unlock, then return the other way...as if it was being done from the passengers door switch. I am asumming this means these wires should be connected at the driver's door lock, but those aren't on the chart. So now I'm thinking I should have checked all of those wires at the relay with a multimeter and disregarded the chart. According to that chart, the driver's pin switch is in the door....wtf? doesn't it eventually get into the car? I'm sure it does, but finding it in the awful cluster under the kick panel is just about impossible. I checked for schematics in the Chilton's with no luck, I'll be checking out www.dsmtalk.com and the vfaq pages to get a handle on this situation.
I used the factory grounds under the driver's kick panel and made secure t-taps (w/o cutting any wires) and soldered them. It just seems very tight under there and a total pita to work on in Novemeber while my fingers are turning to icicles. Hat's of to you guys who do this everyday, I don't know how you keep your sanity!
If anyone has any suggestions for wiring the power locks and if I should replace the factory relay just for piece of mind, alarm suggestions...or just want to generally tell me I'm a nit-wit... all input is appreciated! Thanks and Happy Holidays!