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DYohn got me addicted to it!    

It would be beneficial to become familiar enough with those software programs (if you are thinking of trying that route) so that you can input some different woofer/tweeter combinations to see how they will work together.  Of course, that can take a lot of time as there's plenty of work to do just getting one set of drivers up and running to the point you can start experimenting with different things.  My approach has been (so far) to somehow find myself in possession of the drivers and then do my damnest to make them work together!  Not the best way to approach it, but I've had fun with it.  Actually, sort of like that...where I look at the parameters of drivers I want to match together and look at their published test responses (and the most important thing: price!), and make a judgement of whether I should try to use them together or not.  But I just do this type of thing for my own enjoyment and the learning experience, sort of like you are planning to do on this project.

The drivers freq ranges have to cross over each other at points where both drivers can easily accept the power at that level and are responding the way they should.  You'll find a lot of tweeter with an Fs of about 1,800 Hz and some others lower at 900 to 1000 Hz.  You'll probably note that the lower Fs models cost a little more than some of the others.  These are usually better in two-way systems because you can cross over at 3,500 Hz and be at over 1.5 octaves above the resonance freq.  You'll know by doing this that you can try a variety of different crossover topologies and the tweeter will likely not be in danger of receiving too much power at Fs.  Using a tweeter with a higher Fs would force you into a higher crossover point, and that is where you look at the woofer response at one octave above the target xover and see if it is still responding smoothly.

The woofer we looked at above would work with a lot of tweeters and will also give you good midbass that will cross well with the subwoofer.  You'll find tons of good information in those sources (much of it within the programs themselves e.g. Speaker Workshop), and if you have some free time between finals and all those things, look through this forum for posts from DYohn on driver selection.  But give yourself as much time as you can to absorb all the concepts.  With your EE studies, you'll be past my knowledge level in no time!  Stick with the forum...er, I see you've done that...but participate from time to time.  I'll be asking you questions before too long.

I've got the p17wj-00-08.jpg as the midbass in my 3-way main speakers at home, which crosses over to a subwoofer at 80 Hz.  The tonal quality is wonderful.  It's an 8 ohm driver (should be the last double-digit designation) but you should be able to incorporate it into the car system.  Perhaps not, though, with your power availablity.  I'm not sure what the difference is in models WJ and WG.  It cost me $44 each from PartsExpress, I remember that. 

http://editweb.iglou.com/eminence/eminence/pages/params02/params.htm is a good source of info and history on speaker parameter data.

In the Vifa designation system, "G" stands for a 1" voice coil and "J" stands for a 1-1/4" voice coil.  "W" means woofer.

http://www.d-s-t.com/link/main/tech/codes2.htm

I've used both the Vifa PL17 and the Peerless (they are made in the same factory by the way) and they sound excellent.  The Peerless CSCX will handle a lot more power.

The way to know if you can cross at 2600 Hz is to find a tweeter that will handle that.  Look for one with an Fs of 1000Hz or lower.  Then you will need to attenuate the tweeter to match the sensitivity of the woofer.  The Peerless is listed as 90db/2.83 volts/meter, but since it is a 4-ohm speaker that is equivalent to 87db per watt/meter.  If you choose a tweeter with, say, 91db/watt/meter, then you will have to pad it down to the woofer's 87db.  Follow?  Also, I recommend a high-pass on the midbass @ 80Hz, which can be the active filter on the amplifier.