1997 Chevrolet Tahoe Remote Start

Thanks for the answer... But I thought that the 1997 didn't have an ignition 3 unless it was pink/white???

I have another quick question about relays...

I know I'll have to use 3 of them to actuate the door locks with the priority driver's feature. 

I'll need one for the horn trigger.

I'll need one to actuate the rear glass.

Do I need one for the parking lights since it is listed as a 10A output, or can I just tap the above wire at the switch?

Do I need one for the "domelight supervision" if my truck already has it (i.e. is that feature hidden in with the factory remote receiver?)

Thanks,

--JJ

It has either a white or a pink/white no question about it.  As long as it is an automatic.

Peronally I wouldn't bother with driver priority.  To me its more of a pain in the ass to hook up and use.

No relay is needed for the horn.  Just hook the - horn output to the black wire at the column that tests ground when you push the horn.

Assuming your 10a park lamp output is + you can just hook it directly to the brown wire at the headlight switch.  If you pull a trailer this might be a problem however as combined the lights could draw more then 10 amps.

You mean it has an ignition 3 wire?  Ignition 2 is white...

Thanks,

--Jeff

Thanks for your help!

We'll see if it starts this weekend!

--Jeff

A few final questions...  Again an Autopage RS-750LCD on a 1997 GMC Yukon 2Door with rear hatch...

Out of curiosity, how does the negative output for the horn (-200mA) trigger the horn if I just tie it into the horn wire ( The horn wire rests at 12V then goes to ground with honk)? In other words, why don't I need a relay?

For the Domelight supervision...  I was planning to use a relay and tie into the "white" wire at the headlight switch.  I think my yukon has negative door triggers, but how do I tell?  The relay would be as follows:

30-White wire at headlight switch, 85-12V,  86 - White wire from Autopage (H9/5 -200mA), 87- Ground, 87A- none.

Is there a better way to do this?  This setup does not require that I cut the white wire at the headlight switch, rather just tie into it.  Will it work?  Will it damage the switch if I don't cut it?

For the rear hatch, I found a wire (BLACK/ white at the kick panel), that rests at ground and goes to 12V when the switch on the dash is actuated.  I plan to use a relay to trigger this wire as follows:

30- BLACK/ white at kick panel, 85- 12V, 86- Grey wire from Autopage H9/2, 87- 12V, 87A- none

Again, I have the question... Is it ok to tap the black wire going from the dash switch to the rear hatch or do I need to cut it and place the switch side on 87a and the hatch side on 30?  I would rather tap it, but I don't want to fry anything.

For the starter kill relay, I read the diagram to say that I should attach "85" to the "ignition switch".  I assume I can grab either ignition 1 or ignition 2 as long as it gets 12V when the key is in the "on" position... Is this correct?

I think this about covers it for now.  I have installed the antenna, led, hood pin, shock sensor, knock sensor and temp sensor, now comes the real stuff.  I plan to do this on Saturday night, I just want to confirm a few things before I start slinging solder!

By the way, thanks for ALL the help!

--Jeff