window venting

You Just need a window module,  orange  wire to the trunk channel (in most alarms  blue wire) and thats it. no relays

Later

Chuy

Hey Shadow,

A module is a good idea for someone wanting full control on two or four windows whether it be all up or all down or vent.  But for simply venting as you wanna do,  a $3 relay is cheaper than a $50 module.  To vent four,  simply multiply parts and labor by four.  We're still only at twelve bucks.

The Honda uses Type A system meaning that the motor wires rest at ground so you have to Open one or the other motor wires (depending if you want up or down) while sending a positive signal.  In the drivers door the color is RED / blue.

Now the relay :

Pin 85 of the relay is neg signal coming from brain

Pin 86 is Pos direct fused

Pin 30 to motor wire at motor side

Pin 87a to motor wire switch side

Pin 87 to pos direct fused,  this is heavy current you can use the one feeding the door module possibly a Blue/Black it is already fused 20 amp in dash fusebox.

Now add a 4700mfd polarized cap connecting the neg side to pin 85 of relay and pos side to pin 86.  This gives you about 3 seconds.  If it's too much change to a 2200mfd,  if not enough place two caps in parallel...experiment and have fun. 

This only works if  the alarm brain outputs a signal that is latched or continuous. If the signal is only a 1 second pulse it will not work , this will only work for as long as there is a signal going to this wire. Correct me if I'm wrong on this ? Good idea though !!  If the wire is a 1 second pulsed wire, you do not need the caps in line of the pin 85.

Actually,  if the brain outputs a constant signal,  then the relays should remain energized as the Cap would basically just serve as a filter in the case.   However,  the cap would also get charged and when power is removed from the relay coils,  the cap will discharge over time (fairly quickly) and once it reaches a certain point, it no longer has enough voltage or current to keep the relay energized, therefore giving you the delay after the output is gone.  

I haven't done it this way in a while, but maybe I'll do an experiment as you should be able to use a resistor in addition the the capacitor (cap) like a 1M Ohm to get a longer discharge time which would give you a longer delay time without having to increase the value of the cap.