1989 mercury tracer/mazda 323

the 89 tracer and the mazda 323 are the same car. There is a fuse box under the hood that has 2/30a,2/60a and 1/80a fuses. The 80a fuse keeps blowing and the car will not start when this amp is down. I cannot tell what these amps or the 80a fuse goto or why this is happening. All guages work and dash lights work too, There is a yellow light at the top of the dash display is says Check(picture of an engine) Can anyone tell me what this is and why the fuse blows? thanks in advanceevery minute u laugh adds a minute to your life unless u get attacked by a bear and eaten

The 80A is the main fuse. If it's like the 89 Mazda I am familiar with, it is the only bolt-in fuse of that type (in that block). Alas I don't have the wiring diagram here - but I can get one and may be able to see what circuits it covers that are not protected by the other fuses. It sounds like an EFI... yes?

that would be great if u could get a diagrahm. I have yet to find one. I am not familiar with what EFI means but I guess is may be Electronic Fuel Intake? I tried to trace the wires but its is in a harness that is enclosed to I cannot find it. thank you for your replyevery minute u laugh adds a minute to your life unless u get attacked by a bear and eaten

I reckon EFI stands for "Electronic Friggin' Injection" but apparently it officially is "Electronic Fuel Injection" (but what would fracken officials know?). However, that proves that between the two of us, we cover what the officials know. (I rest my case!) Summary of below:

Get your alternator tested. Keep reading if you want more info.... (eg; after the conditional (LOL!) pre-amble, the ramble on how YOU can test, and my "logic" etc...) Ok, I have THE book (don't tell my mum!). Although there are only 102 pages (of which the first 8 are intro and the rest divided between wiring diagrams and "physical" wiring diagrams), it might be nice to narrow it down. Plus of course it's for the Australian version which drives on the correct side of the road. (It's actually a Ford Laser which is a re-badged Mazda 323 but with a few differences...) The Main 80A (black) flink is for: directly - the charging system (no other fuse) - eg; heavy Black wire to alternator B (B+) = main/heavy terminal. And I think I can stop there...    All the other circuits go though other fuses and - in theory - those fuses should blow before taking out their master (upstream) flink.    Hence therefor in my humble opinion which is never wrong except when it is, your problem is a shorted power diode in the alternator. If you have a miltimeter you can test it. Disconnect the battery -ve cable from the battery (to isolate power source(s). [Remember the simple rule - whenever playing with any battery power, the ground (battery -) SHALL be disconnected. Hence the order to disconnect first, reconnect last.] If you have other batteries, repeat for them. If you have installed capacitors for audio etc, disconnect them. As a check, connect the alternator B (heavy) output to the alternator chassis or engine block - preferably via a light bulb if unsure about other batteries & caps etc (any bulb - 2W, or haloge headlight etc) - it should NOT light up, else dim as the "supply" discharges. Otherwise a dead-short will discharge the source else spark & melt trying too. Then (or) connect the multimeter set to (eg) 20V DC with +ve to the alternator B terminal and -ve to alternator GND (body/chassis). The voltage should be zero... If so, change the range to diode (test) if you have it, else continuity, else resistance (say 1k or 10k Ohms). Diode test is indicated by a diode symbol (like --|<--) and is often combined with the continuity test (some of have a buzzer to indicate continuity). Get a zero or offscale or other reading. Repeat with the connections reversed (+ve to chassis, -ve to B). What should happen is that it shows conduction or resistance in one direction, but NOT the other (else avery high resistance like several mega-Ohms = M<ohms symbol Omega> I suspect you will get continuity in both directions 0 ie, close to zero Ohms, or zero volts on diode test, or buzzing or a low fig for continuity. For a normal alternator it should read in one direction (connection polarity): - offscale or infinite volts for diode test (and continuity is combined with diode test); - ditto & silence for continuity-only scale (else silence and a high reading); - offscale or infinite for resistance (else a high reading on Mega-Ohm settings). In the other direction: - from 0.4 but usually 0.6 to 1.4 (Volts) on diode (/continuity) scale; - maybe buzzing & a lowish reading or reading if continuity-only scale; - lowish resistance on resistance scale (maybe 200 Ohms, but could be far less etc - ie, 20 to 2,000 Ohms). Sorry for the big reply. That's the problem with my "live" replies. I can summarise the test if needed, else just reply "Get your alternator tested!". (Now inserted above...) I can rewrite or discombulate if too confusing.... If you think that's bad, this is how I originally started.... Flink-wise: (flink = fuse-link - those plastic 20A-80A fuses...) But starting at page 9 - the first diagram.... 30A (pink) is for the combination switch only (headlights). 40A (green) is ditto but other lights, and maybe hazard flashers. ... but then I hit the likely 80A issue.... Ain't good diagrams good!(?) Let me know if it isn't the alternator... Or it you have other non-standard connections thru the 80A fuse... Or oversized fuses in the main fuse box (not the flink box)... Or if you decide to solve it with an auto-elec. (LOL! Me is bad!)

I was close to solving this problem with giving it to the scrap yard cause some donut hole stole the cd player in it and ripped the dash to doodie. Kids have no idea how to steal things right these days. anyway I love this car, I call the poor mans sports car and the engine is solid. You have giving me hope. I will get back to u on the out come of the test before the weekend as I already have the battery out and its in my back up 86 nissan multi to get me to and from work thank u and I love long replies, I trust them more. every minute u laugh adds a minute to your life unless u get attacked by a bear and eaten

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY: Go for it!! There is no need to read on... (it's just more of my ramble!) Readers have been warned. Poor man's? It's a car. And it's a sport car. (Or so I assume - I'm not familiar with your models.) And Mazda was one of the Jap cars I respected for their engineering (though not their rust). I once considered them when considering leaving my traditional Marque - I envisaged an early RWD 323 2-door hatch with 929 (Or RX-x?) rear disc end and a rotary engine... I'm diving an old 1965 ute that I intended to keep for a year after having jokingly said to a mate 3 years earlier that I'd consider one with a ute-back. 13 years later & 10 years driving it and it's still so fun to drive! I like the oldies. Nil or less EPA requirements etc. "Simple" systems, but you can modernise them all you want. (Nothing like modern alternators and other improvements. And engine improvements LOL!) But if I may suggest - stick with it. If nothing else, they are a great way to learn. Not that that always helps with modern vehicles (LOL!), yet some basics are still very pertinent. And I don't think you'll have problems getting it going because you changed the radio, or are parked outside some wireless alarm system, or or or... And old cars usually have lots of parts at the wreckers... If it was an older vehicle, I'd tell you to get an alternator with INBUILT regulator - but you already have that (probably a Nippon Denso, around 60A-75A). And you already have good and modernish fusing & flink (fuselinks) - in fact the same flink box was adopted by our local GM manufacturer (GMH = GM-Holden) several years later (they are a bit slow, but they finally got there!). Though that alternator-to-battery power lead should be (IMHO) on its own fuse/flink. As you know - or rather, may soon confirm(?) - because of a (very rare) fault in an alternator, you can't go anywhere (shorted diodes or stator windings blow the MAIN fuse). If on its own fuse, the MAIN would still be ok and you could get home on battery power (maybe 2 hours driving at night; probably over 6 hours without headlights). Of course that is merely in my humble opinion (IMHO), and surely "they" now better? (Idiots!) But that design change is something relatively easy that you can do... [ Alternator's don't need fusing per se - but that's another story. The only reason for the fuse should be the normal cable (and fire) protection in case it shorts the battery somehow (but older cars did not have such fuses). (Other reasons are usually invalid...) ] Oh deary me - is this another long reply? Yes it is. I shall back-edit and insert an executive summary so the others don't get bored. (LOL... all be somewhat serious) BTW - YOU trust long replies...oh dear#2! (Always question, always think. But my crap is long to give the full story, else to have others pick the fault and correct them.) Best wishes. Peter.

thank you for giving me a reason to "Go For it" and I will get back after the weekend with my results by the way, go for it would not have helped me much but the laymans long version is invaluable.every minute u laugh adds a minute to your life unless u get attacked by a bear and eaten