Dash boards

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G2tegra

Member - Posts: 2

Joined: March 13, 2004

Location: Canada

Posted: March 21, 2004 at 2:36 PM / IP Logged

Has anybody done a custom dash to make it smooth, if you have, what would be the easyest way of doing it

Thanks

Tyler

hbk00

Copper - Posts: 64

Joined: November 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 21, 2004 at 3:21 PM / IP Logged

scrape all the foam off, the thin little layer on top, if you dash has it; so all you have is the plastic portion. Go get some fleece and wrap it tight, not too extremly tight so you don't have and raised portions of the fleece off the plastic. Then resin it a couple times, sand a little bit with 80 or 120 pending how well you coated the resin on. Then whatever portions to can't get to, ie dip and divets take some bondo level it out; let that dry the jump to 180 and sand away! Then 320 or 400 still using a DA or electric sander. Then once more at 400 with a block, 800 with a block. Wash it then do 800 wet. Clean it off again then 1000 dry, then 1000 wet. Then wash it again, let it dry prime with a sandable primer, then sand that dry with 1000 then 1500 wet; wash it again let dry and then finally paint it. Let that dry, then when all paint is applied and dry sand again with 2000 wet; clean it let it dry then clear. Then for an even better effect when all said and done wax and buff it, it will give a little extra shimmer. Now in reality you could probably call it good after 800 and prime,paint,and clear and itll still look deceant, but take all the way like I said and you're dash will probably look better than the paint on your car. Take note if you do this and your driving into the sun light your passenger is gonna need good sunglasses your dashboard is pretty much gonna be a mirror!! hehehe HAPPY GLASSING!

go custom or go home!!

noakes75

Copper - Posts: 58

Joined: January 18, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: March 25, 2004 at 11:39 PM / IP Logged

ok look, i go to an auto-body school, and im tellin you, if you sand w/ 1000 grit the primer will NEVER stick. it may at first, but within a few months it will crack out. see it needs something to bit into. seriously. stop sandin with 320. then go get some high build primer. after its dried. maybe about an hour at the clear lastest, block sand with 320. repeate process until almost all sand scrathes are gone. then paint and clear. oh one more thing, after the bondo is hard if you sand it with 120, your goin to be there FOREVER, and it'll keep cloggin the sand papper up. its too fine for fresh bondo. start with 36, when u get ABOUT how u like it, move to 80, now your tryin to get arid of your sand sratches. if theres any heavy sand scratches mix up some bondo, and dump about one cap full of resin in with the bondo, spred over the area and wait. the resin does make it take longer to dry. but the advantage is is that its alot runnier, and it will spred alot smoother. then one most sand scrathes are gone move to 120 or 180. THEN prime, then sand with the 320. ext.. seriously anything above 500 is strickly used to sand clear coat if you got dust in the paint job. IF u do wet sand the clear u will have to either re-clear or buff.

soup

Copper - Posts: 79

Joined: October 09, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: March 26, 2004 at 9:37 AM / IP Logged

noakes75 is right, dont go above 320... you dont even need to go that high. 220 will be fine.. especially if you use a high build primer.

HeathMac

Copper - Posts: 46

Joined: January 18, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: March 27, 2004 at 2:27 AM / IP Logged

what auto body school are you going to? i went to wyo tech and i got riped off

noakes75

Copper - Posts: 58

Joined: January 18, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: March 28, 2004 at 9:06 AM / IP Logged

im goin to NADC down in nashville. why was it a rip off? i think that this school was the best thing ive ever done.

hbk00

Copper - Posts: 64

Joined: November 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 29, 2004 at 7:33 AM / IP Logged

Ok not to diss anyone cause everybody has their own technique but doing it my way will work just fine and you'll get the best result, I did my own dash the first time exactly how I said and my buddy did his real close to how noakes75 said to do it and yeah his look deacent but there was still a significant difference in the finnished product, he even tried to buff his a few times and its still didn't compare. Easy and quick way or the hard and time consuming way its all up too you, but if glassing was that simple everybody would be doing it...think about it. Do you want people to look at somthing you glassed as say, "yeah thats pretty cool" or do you want them to say "damn!" and remain speechless. Its all in your pride...

go custom or go home!!

hbk00

Copper - Posts: 64

Joined: November 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 29, 2004 at 7:37 AM / IP Logged

and FYI I've taken all my glass projects to 1500g when sanding and primer and paint has alway stuck, still have a set of kicks that even got litterally kicked a lot in the car and never chipped once still as nice as the day I finnished them..

go custom or go home!!

OHsolow

Member - Posts: 17

Joined: April 16, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: April 16, 2004 at 11:54 PM / IP Logged

how good is NADC in your opinion noakes75? i mean is it worth the money? im wondering because i am interested in goin. my buddy is leaving this summer to attend... i would like some type of info because i cant seem to get any off their site

audiomechanic

Silver - Posts: 388

Joined: November 09, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: April 18, 2004 at 7:51 PM / IP Logged

what kinda car is the dash from............are you altering it at all or just want to paint it?

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