2008 trailblazer remote start, dead battery

Has anyone had an issue with installing a remote start in a 2008 Trailblazer and had the 12v vehicle battery die overnight?

I installed a Scytek Astra 1000rs.  I've always had great luck with these.  I used the Directed 1700G for Bypass and Doorlocks.  Haven't had much luck with that bypass, but work well most of the time.

My issue is the battery in the vehicle has been dieing overnight ever since it was installed.  Everything works well and the remote start is working well.

I soldered all the connections and used both the power wires, both the ignitions, and both the accesory wires.

The one thing that i noticed was that the starter wire (Yellow) is not necessary, the vehicle starts when the 2nd acc wire is losses power and gets powered back up.

When the vehicle came back, I checked the 12v battery and it was at 12.7v.  I pulled the fuses on the remote start and it's only drawing 23mA when armed and mid teens when disarmed.  That alone is not enough to kill the battery.  The bypass draws next to nothing.

Any ideas?

With a multimeter...  I pulled the fuse and put the meter inline with the individual power wires.  obviously i didn't remote start the vehicle because it would have fried the meter, but i did play with the door locks and watched it jump around. And i only did one wire at a time.

Did you use the "negative out while running" wire for more than just the bypass?  If so the amp draw may not be going through your R/S - it could be elswhere-and needs to be diode isolated--

Try your amp draw test at  the vehicle battery positive cable- If the battery is dying overnight, then there has to be more than 50ma pulling on that battery.  If so- then start pulling fuses one at a time till massive amp draw quits.  You may have a module not going to sleep.  The only problem I have seen with Trailblazers is they don't like to run on voltage sensing in really cold weather- the PCM keeps the alternator "offline" for 10 seconds or so until the engine flare routine is done when below about 15 degrees-- so tach sensing is a must- or you'll be sure to have a comeback.

When your saying your running the meter with the power wires are you doing it at the alarm or at the battery terminal??   When doing the draw amp test you must disconnect the negative battery terminal and run it in series with the meter.  Try to let it set for a minute or two and then start pulling fuses.....First with the alarm system and then the vehicle fuses. 

Thanks for the ideas guys and sorry I didn't get back to you earlier... Busy weekend.

So;

I was checking the amp draw of the remote start via the fuse holders of the remote start.

Nothing else running off the ground out when running...

When the vehicle was at the shop, nothing seemed excessive for a draw on the battery.  I did not test it, but with the doors open and playing with the wires, parking lights flashing, wires tested and doors locking etc. the vehicle was still at 12.6 v...

Problem;

The guy works for the fire department and always leaves his keys in the ignition.  I hooked up the key sense wire for the 1700G Directed bypass to the vehicle key sense wire...  Don't ask me why... I know that passlock doesn't traditionally need the keysense wire, but i figured that module is picky and it couldn't hurt.

My new question, is the keysense wire of the 1700G necessary?  If i cut the wire then the bypass won't think all night and drain his battery dead overnight.  And he will not tolerate taking the keys out of the ignition.

Thanks again everyone!

Really always leaves the keys in the ignition, eh?  Where's the idiot live I could use a free truck.  Try explaining that one to the insurance company....