remote start on peugeot 206 gti 180 '03

Hi I've fitted several cat1 alarms and also fitted remote start alarms before, I'm fitting a Clifford remote start alarm to my Peugeot 206 gti 180 03' it has got the hazard and lock switch on the top of the dash :( which having read several forums apparently this model is a pain but I want to take it on as I like a challenge, I'm also looking at fitting window roll ups, headlight activation and looking at using the ground when armed to fold in the mirrors, any advice tips or tricks in helping me to achieve this would be greatfully appreciated, does anybody have a spec sheet as that would also be helpful as I've herd the locking can be difficult. Thank you. Scott jones

Drop the glove box, steering column shroud instrument panel shroud instrument panel top centre cable and pull out the BSI/fuse box. There is a ridge above the glove box, assuming a 650 or an AV 5.5 mount the alarm's CPU there with 2 x taptights (they give you 4 in the kit). With glovebox removed you will see to the left a spare grommet (drill through this) for engine bay access. Also the brake light switch orange cable. Run the cables over the top to the steering column area. There are two looms coming from the ignition switch. The left hand gives you your constant 12V+ feeds, Ign1 and starter. The right hand, going to the BSI box gives you ignition 2 and accessory. The BSI box gives you locking, 5 wire poss pins 13 and 15 for the motor wires at the left hand square plug. The central square plug gives you left and right + indicators and the rear plugs should (that's one of the many "issues" with Peugeots), note I said should give you door and tailgate triggers. You might have to go to the light units. At the quadplugs at the rear. Join normally to start and ignition 1, second ignition as follows. Cut it, you will need 1 relay and 2 x 1N4004 diodes. Take the blue/orange wire (assuming Intellistart lV or V) marked status output, 3rd ignition - or GWR. Make a "Y" joint from it and insert 1 diode in each leg with their bands towards the R/S. Join 1 side to 85, 12Volt constant to 86, second ignition output from R/S (ORANGE / grey) to 87, key side of cut wire to 87a and ignition side to 30. If you don't do this the alarm will trigger off every time you enable the R/S with the alarm on. This next part is optional but it's the only way to get the indicators to run showing you the R/S is enabled and engine running. Take the other leg of that "Y" joint you made from the status output wire to 85 on a second relay. Constant 12V+ fused at 20amps to 86 and 87, shared with the 86 terminal from the first relay. 30 via a pair of 1N5404 diodes, bands towards the relay and join to the white wires going from the alarm to the indicators. Place the R/S unit inside the instrument panel cowling, also you should be able to pick up the parking brake and tach at the plugs going to the gauges. Again I said should plugs, this is a Peugeot. Alternative positions are parking brake switch (a swine to get at) and the engine bay engine management wiring for the tach. That's it. Easy if you've done one before, a pig if you haven't. Don't dare to ask about colours they change them every three months.

Hi howie II thankyou for you last reply it has been very helpful, im in the process of installing the alarm, but having issues locating the tach wire, i have a meter set to AC with the back to ground and probing with the red but have not found anything at the clocks where else would be best to look?

I thought that would be an issue with those bloody cars. Look at the engine management box, front of right hand wheel arch behind the headlight. Open up the loom there are 2 or 3 independent wires, it's going to be one of them. Possibly white but I've seen other colours. Alternatively on top of the cylinder head there might be a plug with about 4 cables, faces the front ref. my Peugeot comment in the first sentence, one of them. Test by setting your DMM to 20VAC, should get a reading from about 3 volts AC going to about 5+.

Hi Howie II I finaly got there in the end with locking working and remote start starting, im also in the process of fitting a safety feature so i dont leave the car in gear which is fun, My only problem left is my door trigger, due to leaving the chip from the key by the lock barrel the car thinks im leaving the key in the ignition, and i belive its the playing up the door trigger/interior light..... is the BSI the best place to get this triger? an is it.. (bare with me as nothings normal on this car) ---normally--- a positive trigger? also ive seen you mention window roll ups being easy, im goning to try this today any chance of a heads up on how to do it? many thanks Howie II youve been a massive help :)Many Thanks

Scott Jones

You're right, going to the interior (dome) light will give you nightmares with the locking system, go to the BSI box, separate negative triggers for each door. Also do NOT use the top locking button to control your locks, again use the motor wires on the BSI box, also known as 5 wire. Window roll-ups are a piece of p**s, the switches are standard type 1 wiring, use a 529t for roll-ups or a 530t for up, venting and down, it will also give you one touch up and down, the unit goes in the centre console in front of the switches.

Hi howie II, hope you are well, I have 2 questions for you, 1. Can I use relays to get the windows to roll up when armed using the orange ground when armed wire? if so is there a diagram to follow? Instead of using 529t? 2. I'm looking at getting the mirrors to fold in when the car is armed, possibly using the lock and unlock wires? have you done this before and again can it be done using relays?? Many Thanks Scott JonesMany Thanks

Scott Jones

Use relays and for various reasons you will burn out your motors, £10 for the relays against £20 (retail prices) and it isn't worth it.

Sorry, never done a mirror fold on them, probably controlled off the BSI, you have to find either a trigger wire from the switch, unlikely, it's probably data or the motor wires. TEST.