avital 4103 partially working on 97 jetta

Hellow everyone! I have a 97 Jetta GLS It remote starts nicely but the stock car alarm goes off when I do so. The Door locks are not working (i will double check the wiring) and the trunk button doesn't work as well. Can someone please verify what i am missing? BTW, I am not using a Bypass Module... Here is my wire connections: H1/1: Light GREEN/ Black(-)Factory alarm disarm - Not Connected H1/2: GREEN / WHITE(-)Factory rearm - Not Connected H1/3: Yellow(+)Ignition out (to alarm) - Not Connected H1/4: WHITE/ Blue(-)Activation Input - Not Connected H1/5: Orange(-)Ground when locked - Not Connected H1/6: Brown(-)Horn Output - Connected to BLACK / YELLOW Horn wire H1/7: RED / White(-)Trunk Release Output - Connected to Gray Trunk Wire H1/8: Black Ground - Connected to Chassis Ground H1/9: White(+/-) Light Flash - Connected to Gray/Black &       Gray/Red Headlight switch 4-pin satellite harness 1: (-)Status Output - Not Connected 2: (-) Accessory Output - Not Connected 3: (-) Starter Output - Not Connected 4: (-) Ignition Output - Not Connected Heavy gauge relay wiring 1: (-) Output to Ignition Circuit - Connect to Black ignition wire 2: (-) Output to Starter Circuit - Connect to RED / Black starter wire 3: (-) Output to Accessory Circuit - Connect to BLACK / YELLOW           accessory wire 4: (-) (30A) High Current 12 Input - Connect to 12v common 5: (-) Programmable output for accessory or ignition - Not Connected 6: (-) (30A) High Current 12 Input - Connect to 12v common Door lock harness 1: (-) Unlock output - Connected to Green wire (might be wrong Wire) 2: N/A 3: (-) Unlock output - Connected to Gray Wire (might be wrong Wire) Remote start harness (H2) H2/1: (-) Neutral safety switch input - Connected to Chassis Ground H2/2: Tachometer wire - Connected to Tach BLACK/ Red by Coil H2/3: (+) Brake switch shutdown - Connected to RED / yellow Brake wire H2/4: (-) Hood pin switch - Connect to hood pin switch H2/5 (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output - Not Connected any information or suggestions is greatly appreciated!

Connect the light GREEN/ black wire to your unlock wire and make sure it is set at just single pulse. This will disarm the alarm before starting the car. Did you test the lock wires? It looks like you have the right colors. The unlock requires a double pulse to unlock (1 pulse disarms the alarm, the 2nd pulse unlocks the doors). The locks are a (+) system so you will need to add a relay to change the (-) output of the alarm to the (+) signal required. When you do this, make sure to connect your light GREEN/ black to the input of the relay to disarm. Your best bet is to find a DEI 451m lock relay pack. If so your connections will be as follows: Violet/black (with fuse) to 12v constant GREEN/ black to gray lock wire on car Blue/Black to green unlock wire on car WHITE/ black no connection BROWN / black no connection The red,green, and blue harness will plug into your lock output on the starter but make sure to tie your light GREEN/ black into the small gauge blue wire of that harness. Your trunk wire is a 5wire reverse polarity system. You are likely to blow a fuse with how you have it connected now (and possibly cause further damage) and you may have already damaged the remote starter brain. Any (+) signal fed into the alarm brain on that wire will kill the output (yes, I know from experience). You need a 5 pin relay for the trunk release wired as follows: Pin 85 to a fused 12v constant Pin 86 to the RED / white (-) trunk output Connect those 2 first and test the output to make sure it is still working. If you hear the relay click, then continue on: Cut the gray trunk release wire. Pin 30 to trunk side of cut gray wire Pin 87a to switch side of cut gray wire Pin 87 to a fused 12v constant. Some other problems I see: 1) Your horn will not work as you have it connected. It also requires a relay to convert the (-) output to (+). As with the trunk release output you will want to test this connection as well because you may have burned out this output with how you currently have it connected. Pin 85 to fused 12v constant Pin 86 to (-) horn output from remote start Pin 87 to BLACK / YELLOW horn trigger in car Pin 87a no connection Pin 30 to fused 12v constant 2) You did not mention it, but did you use diodes to separate your 2 parking light wires? Diodes are required for each wire so that they do not backfeed into each other. I believe you will want the strip facing towards the remote start brain but I could be wrong (always get mixed up on the diode "flow" direction) You have to be careful to read and test your wires fully. Had you tested both your lock wires properly you would have known that they were not a (-) lock system. Same with your trunk wire. You are setting yourself up for some major mistakes by not testing your wires properly. If you do not have a good DMM then I wouldn't proceed any further (other than disconnecting the locks/trunk wires asap).Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Plan B is to kill the factory alarm. There should be a black box called something like "comfort module" under dash adjacent to the steering column with two plugs. It's where you should have picked up and dioded* your trunk and hood triggers, not needed for doors. Take the factory alarm siren wire, yellow black and cut it, cut the two direction indicator wires BLACK/ green and BLACK/ white (that's how we do the lighting in Europe, we join to the cut away ends. Take the three ultrasonic leads coax type cables 2 centres and a common outer, cut one. N.B. If the vehicle has factory power windows, the lock wires are in the driver's door parallel to and behind the window switches. Extending the lock pulse will close windows. If no power windows the lock and unlock are at the comfort box (I've had a couple from Eastern Europe without windows or AC).

Thank you two for the quick reply. I appreciate your help and this is my first time doing this remote starter, I understand its dangerous in damaging my car electrical system but I guess I figured I would learn the hard way and its working... So I will try getting that dei 451m relay pack first, where can I buy it locally instead of getting it online? I will buy two 5 pin relays for the trunk/horn wires and two diodes for the parking lights wires. So my question now, where can I purchase these items around my neighborhood?

Btw, I do have a DMM which I promise to use ad test out those wires for any + or - connections.

You should be able to pick up the 5pin relays from any radio shack or auto parts store. The 451m will be a little harder. You can try your local best buy and see if they have any. Otherwise you'll have to get it online or hardwire it using 2 more 5pin relays. What part of NY are you from?Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Kenny, again sorry the wiring colours and locations for the locks are completely different to the Euro Golf. Even our trunk release on the Euro Jetta is a low current neg from the comfort module. Those relays and diodes can be purchased at any car alarm shop.

Ok great!

Thanks Kenny & Howie.

So i will be getting about 4 or 5 Relays just incase and several diodes... I live in Queens, NY.  We have Autozone, Strauss and a local shop called Autobarn in my area. I will check those places.I will keep you posted on how my situation turns out. 

I won't be able to find the DEI 451m lock relay pack... so I will have to use the extra 5 pin relays... Did I need to connect a relay to each lock & unlock wire? I am adduming yes if those wires are +. It would be the same setup as the trunk and horn that you decribed in this thread?

Wire them thus, both the same:- Relay 1: Green lock to 85. 12v+ constant 5amp fuse, to 86 and 87 on both relays. 30 to vehicle lock wire. Relay 2: Blue unlock to 85. 86 and 87 to constant same supply, both relays. 30 to unlock wire. 87a on both, not used. Also place a diode 1N4004 in line on the unit's lock and unlock wires before the relays and bands away from the relays.