Hello. I’m a long time researcher, newly registered first time poster. Wondering if anyone has any insight?
The car: 2005 Audi A6 4.2 with electronic ignition, vehicle battery is good.
The product: Dball, Python 414/4x04. Have tried 2 different Dball and Python units.
The problem:
In D2D mode, the car works flawlessly. Lock, unlock, arm, disarm, trunk pop, hood detect, brake detect, everything is fine. Remote start works perfectly 90% of the time. Set to run 24 mins, it runs 24 mins. The issue is that 10% of the time it will not remain running. A more detailed description of what the car does is described below:
1. Press remote start button
2. Ignition powers up, lights on, factory alarm disarms as doors unlock
3. 4-5 second delay, then car starts, runs for 3 secs, then shuts off
4. Starts again and shuts off imediatley
5. Starts a third time, runs for 3 secs, then shuts off
6. Lights turn off, doors relock, factory alarm rearms, electronic ignition DOES NOT relock.
Sleuth work:
Shutdown diagnostics says “3 blinks - low or no tach, 5 blinks - brake shutdown.” I have gone thru all wiring as per the instructions and tech sheet over and over again. Everything testable has been tested and verified working with my DMM. All ground wires grounded securely to bare metal in the kick panel. All wiring soldered and verified intact with point to point testing. Nothing is loose. Immobilizer bypass works perfectly but eliminated from the equation by using the key in cylinder instead of the bypass, problem still occurred.
Tried using the following tips provided by members here from the other 2005+ A6 threads:
Tried firmware download with IE from both the US and European xpresskit site, same problem.
Tried using a relay on the status wire for immobilzer bypass, same problem.
Tried using tach sensing with the Dball as well as direct wire to the vehicle, no change.
Tried using brake sensing with Dball as well as direct wire to the vehicle, no change.
Pit stop mode works every single time. Tried it 20-30 times.
I’ve tried getting tach at the injector wires listed on directwire, at the ignition coils, I’ve tried virtual tach, and dball tach output, no dice. I’ve tried configuring those options off while flashing the dball and configuring them on, no change.
The problem in W2W mode:
Car starts and runs 100% of the time, briefly. I’ve started it 20-30 times and it always starts. Sometimes it may take a second try which is normal, but it starts. The problem is that 80% of the time, it turns off after 30 secs to a minute.
A more detailed description of what the car does is described below:
1. Press remote start button
2. Ignition powers up, lights on, factory alarm disarms as doors unlock
3. Car starts and runs. Doors relock.
4. 80% of the time, the green flashing light on the dball turns off, followed by the vehicles lighting, then ignition turns off, car continues to idle in a rough fashion for another 4-5 secs, then turns off.
5. Ignition does not relock.
Sleuth work:
Car will not learn tach when directly connected to the vehicle. Doesn’t matter where it is connected. The AC voltage has been verified by my DMM to be a working tach signal in all chosen locations (coil, injector, etc). I’ve learned tach in D2D mode then configured for W2W and it’s the same result. Shutdown diagnostics for low or no tach.
In W2W mode, the Dball will not output an ignition signal to the remote starter ignition input, when the ignition is powered up. But it will output an ignition signal to the remote starter when in D2D mode. If in W2W mode, I can only configure the remote start if I manipulate the ignition input on the remote start.
I’ve used a relay to power the Dball and key bypass, no change.
Who I’ve contacted:
Directechs – spent 20 mins on the phone with them. The tech was baffled. The install took me 4 hours to complete initially, I’ve spent 16+ hours researching the issue and attempting to rectify or work around the problem. They are now requesting vehicle VIN and Dball serial/product #. I believe this to be a firmware problem with the latest December release of code.
If I have had a problem with a module and vehicle integration in the past, I have eliminated the module and gone the direct wire approach.
If anyone has any information regarding a work around on the 2005+ A6 with electronic ignition, please let me know. I will gladly eliminate the need for this Dball
This is the first and ABSOLUTELY last Dball that I use ever! I have used Idatalink/FLCan and fortin modules for years. Not only has their product been much more reliable, their tech department is incredibly helpful and responsive.
Please ask me any questions regarding what I have or have not done. No matter how redundant, small, silly, complex, please ask. I just want this vehicle to start 100% of the time, like every other vehicle I have done in the past.
Thanks and I apologize for the long winded post. I can only hope that if someone else ever experiences this problem, they will find that they are not alone.
Don't be a lemming...