2003 Jeep Liberty door trigger

I would like to know if the 2003 Jeep Liberty has a common door trigger, which polarity,and the location.If, there is not a common wire, where will I find the wires for driver, passenger and rears, tailgate and liftglass, are they all negatives. will I need 4 diodes, what size of diodes, and what side for the cathode.

Thanks !

Use the 2002 information for the Liberty for wire colors, polarity and location :

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |

Notes:

Thank you Jeff for wiring information, but I still have a problem.

My alarm is Predator 3901tw,it is alarm only, no remote starter, it is FM 2-way similar to Commando fm combo. The installer manual is very bad, there are no instructions about adjusting arming delays.The default arming delay is about 10 seconds.I have no starter kill hooked up, only hood pin, shock sensor with warn away connected to dedicated port of the brain, clifford tilt and motion sensor connected to trunk trigger,and green (-) door trigger hooked to the domelight.

The brain has a dedicated connector for door lock with red, blue and green wires mini harness, I have isolated this red since it did'nt work , so, I picked the +12 volts passed the brain fuse on the red wire to feed the coils of the door lock relays. My locking resistor is 2k ohm instead of your suggested 1.4. And my unlocking resistor is 470 ohm instead of your suggested 426 ohm.

Everything is fine when armed or at disarming.The problem is that when arming, the brain is sending an instant lock command to the pink/purple factory wire through the 2k ohm resistor to ground while the domelight is still on,so, I got bad zone report with 4 chirps warning, the zone is bypassed for a while then it is reintegrated  when the domelight delay expires, 30 seconds after arming.

The factory keyless entry does'nt lock the doors the same way; it locks the doors and confirm that each and every door ,glass and gate are completely latched by honking the factory horn and, and,and by bypassing the 30 seconds delay at the domelight leaving only the 5 seconds fade away.

If I lock the doors with the factory keyless entry remote, everything is OK, except that I have to hold both remotes in my pocket.If I wait for domelight to fadeaway before arming,again everything is OK.

If I hook my green wire to  the 4 triggers wires with diodes instead of domelight, I will lose the badly closed door supervision. I would like all of the followings.

Only one remote in my pocket.

Keeping bad zone supervision  (children not closing the door strong enough)

Not chirping for telling me that the domelight is on.

Not waiting for the domelight to fade before arming.

Question 1.....Does someone know a way to extend the default arming delay of 10 seconds to 30 or more seconds.

Question 2...For Jeff,  If I replace my resistors to your suggested values, could that change something.My values have been suggested by a local alarm shop.

Question 3....Is there any other wire (other than the pink/purple) that could lock the doors the same way as the factory keyless entry, described higher.This receiver should have a way to be hardwired.

You will need to double diode isolate each door trigger inorder to bypass the dome light fade. The diodes are the 1N4001 ( 3 amp ) diodes and have the cathode band facing the door trigger switch. Your answer to question # 3 is :

• LOCK MOTOR|ORANGE / black           |   |back of fusebox *2         
  UNLOCK MOTOR|pink/black          |   |back of fusebox *2         

Hi Jeff.   Would you mean that if I hook ground through 1.4 k ohm resistor to ORANGE / black (via relay) and ground through 326 ohm to pink/black (via relay).The doors would lock the same way the factory keyless do, like confirming by cancelling the 30 sec delay. If so, I would not need to diode wire the doors triggers.

Thanks