Pager alarm install help needed

If your existing alarm already has an impact sensor, don't add your "plug-n-play" sensor. You just asking for more false alarms. But, then again, it also depends on whether or not you want the alarms to be totally independent, where if one fails, the other acts as a backup. you can use both impact sensors, but I wouldn't, but that is just my opinion. I like getting a full night's sleep and keeping the peace with my neighbors.If you want the pager to react if your alarm triggers, use a relay to connect the siren output of the alarm (usually +12v) to (+) input trigger of the pager. You can also connect, using diodes to isolate switches and sensors, other trigger sources to the same input. There are several different ways to do it and us installers all have our druthers. But, everything depends upon your vehicle and the equipment you have, so I am just giving you general application ideas, you will have to do your homework.Trigger Inputs: Depends on your vehicle. Some, like Ford, have a positve trigger. Others, like GM, Honda have negative triggers. Refer to the vehicle wiring diagrams at: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.asp for your vehicle.Armed Output wire: Usually, this wire is for a starter interrupt relay, which puts out a ground (or negative) signal when the alarm is armed (Don't qoute me on this as sometimes manufacturers describe things differently)If you already have starter kill with your other alarm, no need to connect it. But you can if you want, but as I stated before, more stuff can mean more problems.(Connect the Orange lead of the Pager to the Starter Interrupt lead of your "host" alarm.)I am having a hard time seeing the details of diagrams 2 and 3.Ignition lead: Connect this to any +12v source that comes on with the key (or ACC if you kick it in your vehicle to listen to your tunes). When you turn the key off, the alarm goes into its arming mode. Some alarms (if in passive arming mode) will have a delay period (usually 30 to 60 seconds) before they arm, allowing you to exit the vehicle, and with some later model vehicles, allows the illuminated entry lights to shut off.Don't hesitate to ask, that is what this forum is here for. And I have noticed (as a recently joining member) that there is usually always someone monitoring the board that knows what they are talking about......."Oh God, I need to get a life!"Clean tools = Clean work!

For the trigger, connect where it is the easiest to get to. That way if you ever need to troubleshoot...........But either spot will work in a Chevy. The door trigger (if things are still the same as they were a couple of years ago) will be a white wire.As for the antenna, the higher in the vehicle, the better the range. Although I am not familiar with the late model Chevy Truck (been out of the business for a couple of years now) usually, if you can remove the top of the dash, then lay the antenna across, you should get some decent range. Mounting the antenna close to metal (like the windsheild pillar) will inhibit the signal strength. Also remember that your pager's transmission range will governed by where the vehicle is parked. And, since it does transmit an AM signal, you are subject to all the problems with AM reception. Don't expect to get a range of 1 mile. In most of my experiences, 1/4 of a mile was the average. If you are inside a building, placing the receiver next to a window, or telephone will help a little.Good Luck!Clean tools = Clean work!