Anyone try this fiberglass finish?

From what i mostly read everyone who uses the fiberglass as their finish primers/sands/body filler their body and then get it painted by a body shop or somewhat... I came across this only heard of it by one person and saw it on another site... its a color agent you mix with your resin and after you layer your fiberglass and so on use body filler and primer and sand it down... then you keep sanding it then you like polish/wax it and it get like the same result... anyone heard of this? here is the site i saw it from... http://www.garbled.net/tim/fiberglass.html heres what he says Lets start with the last one, the piano finish. This is usually the goal of most fiberglass work. You can easily paint something to achieve this look, but it requires a bit of skill with a paintgun, and it doesn't give off the deep look a fiberglass finish will, unless you are extremely good with paint. For a piano finish, what you really want to do, is only use the resin. Get some finishing resin, preferrably the stuff used to make surfboards, ultra high gloss. Paint it on to a perfectly smooth surface. This is key, any imperfections in the surface will be magnified by the fiberglass. Mix the fiberglass with a coloring agent, and use alot, to give a very opaque finish. Paint it on thick, and cover everything evenly. If you need to, do a second coat before the first coat loses it's stickyness. I suggest between 3-5 coats. On the final coat, thin the resin with acetone, this will help fill in some of the brush lines.

After curing completely (2-3 days) begin sanding. Progressively sand with increasinjg grains of sandpaper. Start out with a high grain, like 400, and sand the whole surface. As you sand, it will cut down the raised areas, leaving the pits and valleys a very high gloss, making them easily visible. If possible, sand these raised areas down to the lowest points in the pits. You may have to use a coarser paper to achieve this. When sanding, allways attempt to use a random orbital sander, the scratch patterns of other sanders, or hand sanding are not desireable. If you are sanding a cruved surface, use a foam backing pad for your sander, to allow it to cover the curved areas. You can get foam backing pads up to 1" in thickness. This will allow you to do some pretty wild curves.

Once you have the whole area sanded to a consistent dull look and smoothness, you should then work your way back up to the 400 grit paper. Purchase some "Abrasol" pads for your sander. These are foam pads available in grits from 180 to 4000, specifically made for creating ultra-fine finishes. They work best when used with water. Clean the surface of your box with a tack cloth to get all the dust off. Then, using a squirt bottle set on mist, completely soak the box. Use the abrasol pad on your random orbit sander, making sure the pad is allways rotating at a high rate of speed. If it slows down, squirt more water on the area. Constantly sand and squirt. The 180 pad should be used to start (following the 400 grit paper). This will leave a shine to the fiberglass. You should inspect carefully for deep scratches, and work them out with the abrasol pad if at all possible. The abrasol is more of a polisher than a sander, it can remove scratches, but will not cut down into material. When sanding with abrasol, lubrication is the key, so use plenty of water.

Keep working upwards through the pads, constantly checking for scratches from the previous pad. By the time you get up to the 2000 and 4000 grit pads, you should be able to see your own reflection in the fiberglass. Once you have smoothed it all out with the 4000 grit pad, it's time for a trip to the auto store. Pick up some car polish, preferrably the type designed for use with an orbital grinder. Get a polishing pad for your grinder, and polish like mad. Then apply a hand polish per the instructions on the bottle. At this point, your finish should be scratch-free, and mirror-like. If you like, wax this finish, like a car. also heres a site i saw that sells the color agent... http://www.delviesplastics.com/fiberglass%20resin.htm Anybody know anymore about this method and can help me figure out which primer and color agent to buy/ is there another name for the color agent also where i can buy it? Thanks a lot in advance -benjamin p.s.also what kind of primer do you guys use? is it the spray paint type?

I've colered just resin. It turns out real nice but is a bitch and a half to sand, wet sand, polish, buff, then wax. It is literally double the work then paint prep.Certified Security Specialist

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All i did was sand after i put on the resin. Am i supposed to wet sand, buff, polish, and wax before paint??03 F150 on 24's

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i know u have to wet sand, ive never done the buffing and polishing/wax part. i usually, lay glass, sand the glass, apply bondo, sand, bondo, sand, until its as smooth as possible, have it primered then any little imperfections(which u will see after layin the primer i use either bondo or spot putty for those areas. reprime, then wetsand smooth, paint. let me know what yall do

AJRXtreme wrote: All i did was sand after i put on the resin. Am i supposed to wet sand, buff, polish, and wax before paint??

This post is about not paint the fiberglass box, it is about coloring the fiberglass resin and making it smooth.Certified Security Specialist

Always check info with a digital multimeter.

I promise to be good.

Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.